Category Archives: Positive Reinforcement Training

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Positive Reinforcement Training, Puppies, Training Tips

MONTEREY, CA: The D’s in Dog Training

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There are three D’s to Dog Training, Distance, Distraction, and Duration. Except, we don’t teach them in that order! 

DURATION

We always begin with Duration, which counts for two areas. Duration can mean how long you work with your dog. In the beginning, when they’re just starting out, we begin by teaching them little things here and there while giving them lots of breaks in between. As your puppy grows and matures, it can practice and perform for longer periods of time.

Duration also applies to how long your dog performs a task. When first starting out, we teach the dog what the skill is and that they will get rewarded for performing it. Once that skill becomes reliable, and they’re doing it when asked the first time, we then begin asking for them to either hold it or perform it for a longer period of time. Instead of just doing the skill, they discover that holding that position for a longer period of time then gets them the reward. 

DISTANCE

Once you have established a solid skill and they are doing it for a set period of time, you can begin working on Distancing yourself from the dog. In the example of Stays, we begin by taking one step back, then two, three, etc. Adding Distance creates a more solidly trained dog. Always begin small, and work out from there. 

In the interest of aggressive or reactive dogs we begin further away and slowly work our way closer to the thing that is causing the reactivity. Distance works both ways. 

DISTRACTIONS

Distractions get added as the dog becomes more reliable. They need to learn amongst Distractions, so we add them in slowly. There are four levels to Distractions and they apply in all cases; whether it be obedience training skills, or rehabilitating an aggressive dog. 

Level 1: This is essentially your low level distractions. The way that I explain this to my clients is; it’s a distraction that grabs your pup’s attention but is easy to get it back from. Such as a temporary noise that happens in another room. Their ear would turn, maybe their head but you’re holding a yummy treat so they immediately connect back to you after it’s over. 

Level 2: This is a distraction that is a little bit more exciting to the dog. Something that might cause them to walk away from your treat, and also requires a little more effort on your part to get them back, but they still come back. Example: One of their other humans comes home and walks through the room – puppy runs over to say hello to them. 

Level 3: This distraction is higher up on the enticement scale. This is your pizza man knocking at the door, or hearing someone walk down the sidewalk, on the other side of their fence. This distraction absolutely takes their attention away from you and you need to work at getting it back. Just a treat or a recall won’t do it for them. Usually needs intervention training. If left too long in this stage these distractions can & usually will jump up a level. 

Level 4: This is the highest level of distraction. This is your neighbor and his dog walking towards you down the sidewalk with your dog-reactive dog on a leash. Or a cat that’s running across your yard and your dog has a high level of prey drive. These are distractions that your dog ignores everything, for. They cause your dog to take off running, to pull or lunge at the end of the leash, to completely forget about anything you might be holding or offering him/her. 

A lot of the dogs I meet are at Level 4 and I need to train them down to level 1. So it’s a step-ladder of working at the lower levels and slowly adding more in. Jump too high too fast and it causes confusion and frustration. Also where Distance is important as the closer you get, the higher the Distraction goes. This is why beginning with Duration and Distance is important. Distractions always come last. 

Published by Amy Noble on 12/18/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Positive Reinforcement Training, Puppies, Training Tips

Monterey, CA: Why Training Though?

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Besides the obvious reasons of having a well-mannered, short, furry member of your family – Do you know why it’s a good idea that every single doggy household should go through some training?

Brain Plasticity is the ability for the brain to modify it’s connections and rewire itself.
This is what learning and re-learning is. This is the entire basis of what I do. I can take dogs who have learned to behave, act and react in one way and I am able to rewire the brain to think, react, and act a completely different way – while leaving the personality completely in tact.

Whether or not they have behavioral issues, we all run into hurdles, stumbles and naughty puppies somewhere along the line. But because they may act a certain way, doesn’t mean that they need to be labeled or expected to stay that way forever. This is why I specialize in correcting severe behaviors and all forms of aggression, and have been able to fix what others have said could never be.

Our dogs have thoughts, personalities, emotions, and reactions just like us, and they get bored just like our children do – heck adults still get bored too. As puppies their minds and bodies are growing, learning, shaping and becoming who they will be through exploring the world around them. Training brings a change of pace, has them guessing and striving to do things for you because it’s fun and rewarding! It’s very stimulating to do any kind of training with your dog. Whether it be Obedience, Agility, Assistance / Service Dog work, Rally or any other forms of dog sports and activities. 

Training is stimulating to your dog, no matter their age, they enjoy learning new things or practicing well-known skills. When you work with your dog on obedience or tricks or agility – whatever it is, you are working out their brain muscles. Just like children in school, stimulating the brain to function is good for their health, and makes them tired too! And a tired puppy is a GOOD puppy! Thinking and working for treats and toys is mentally exhausting for them in a good way. Do let them take frequent naps in order for their new learning to settle in, and their bodies to unwind. 

When you’re training with your dog, you’re spending quality time with them each day where the two of you are having fun, communicating with one another and bonding. It should be fun for the both of you, where you continue to improve, progress and over time, work together as a stronger team. All of which makes your life with your dog that much more enjoyable. 

Something to remember: Regularly working with your dog is good for your health. Interacting with your dog has been proven to release endorphins in both species, and we biologically respond to one another the same way parents do with their children. Also? Patients who are recovering from illnesses or surgeries recover faster when they have a dog present, their own dog even faster. 

In Short, It’s all around good for everyone!

Published by Amy Noble on 8/28/19
Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Positive Reinforcement Training, Puppies, Training Tips

Monterey, Ca: Potty Training with Puppies

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Puppies are some of the cutest little beings on the planet! They’re soft, and lovable, playful, bouncy, and so easy to pick up and snuggle.

Quick! What’s the first puppy con that comes to mind?! (Except for biting/chewing 😉) Yup, Potty Training!

The number one asked question of every new dog owner – And number one concern of every parent of every child whose ever mentioned the word “puppy”.

It can be a frustrating time, sometimes longer than anticipated, or it can be smooth and easy. I’ve experienced it all different ways and as I say to everyone? Every dog is different.

My King Shepherd and Malamute were the easiest two – Done in just a weekend. Next easiest would be Kiba our current Husky/WGSD; though in his favor – he was already about 7 months old when we got him and had already been getting potty trained in his foster home (Thanks Sara!). Our Border Collie kid, Raizo and my past Husky Prince tie for the most difficult. Thankfully for me, my parents did most of Prince’s training. And coincidentally – these two were trained using the same technique, paper (pad) training.

Let’s get into it – Which way is best? Easiest? Most effective? The answer, as always is “That depends…”

It depends on how much time you have, how quickly your puppy learns, how routinely you live, and even the type of environment you live in. You could train to go on puppy pads and eventually move them closer to the door and outside. You could use the good old frequent trips outside to show them where to go. There are grass patches now that act as doggy litter boxes that can be effective. An actual doggy litter box with absorbent puppy-safe litter.

What matters most is being consistent and having a set routine. Everybody benefits from having a regular routine of the time you wake, when you exercise and have meals, work, and the time you close it all down for the night to sleep. Just to do it all over again several days a week.

Having a puppy on a set meal routine for instance, will encourage regular, fairly predictable trips out to potty. Having a walk each day will also help keep their systems running regular.

Your rules of thumb are; Every time they wake up from sleep or a nap, potty. Every time after a meal from immediately to up to 30 minutes later, potty. After a big play session of running, zooming and bouncing, potty. Essentially, they go about every 30 mins to an hour. You can do the leg work and take them out to their spot to encourage them to go – but be sure to throw a puppy potty party after! You want them to feel good about where they go!

If they go inside on the carpet, just remember that they’re learning. We wouldn’t get angry at our infants for soiling their diapers. Don’t get angry at the puppy.

Puppies aren’t completely in tuned with their bodies. It takes a bit for them to recognize patterns of the physical feelings and sensations, what they mean, and how to take care of it. When you do your due diligence and pay close attention you will start to notice their signs and it is up to you to guide your little one to the correct spot.

Things to look for: Sudden sniffing in circles, tail held high, sometimes stiffened at the base, then you’ll see concentration show up on their face – bring them to their spot!

Sometimes the act of stopping them to bring them out can startle them and then their bodies shut down and they don’t need to go anymore. That’s ok, try again in another 10 minutes or so.

Reward, reward, reward! That is what will train them faster than anything else. Have some special “potty party” treats that you give when they’ve successfully gone in the right spot.

Just remember it takes time, patience and proactive consistency!

Published by Amy Noble on 7/17/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.