Category Archives: Puppies

Dog Behavior, Dogs, Puppies

CARMEL, CA: Adopt Or Shop – You Choose

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I am 100% supportive of Rescue organizations. I work with a few by fostering dogs, training those fosters and finding them their furever homes. Rescue is great. 

I’m also 100% supportive of responsible breeders. I’ve had many wonderful dogs who came from fantastic breeders. I also worked with several AKC Breeders, Judges, and Delegates who are and were members of the Santa Clara Valley Kennel Club. 

What I don’t support is the confrontation that happens all over social media over the one-sided “Adopt Don’t Shop” rhetoric. I really understand the sentiment; there are so many dogs in shelters and on the streets. It would be amazing if we had a major breakthrough in this condition. Still, there are advantages to both sides of the coin. Dogs from Rescue or Dogs from Breeders.

There are so many benefits to getting a dog from a reputable breeder: Known genetic history, known temperaments, most of them come crate trained or have potty training started, they are well-socialized, properly brought up and come with the behavioral advantages of having gone through weaning with mom while growing up alongside littermates. 

Some people require a well-bred dog to do a specific job. With generations of specifically designed genetic lines, you know what to expect and what you’re getting into. You cannot find the same benefit from a mixed-breed rescue dog. This is the goal of most reputable breeders – to continue on, and perfect, the breed to accomplish what it was originally intended for. 

Yes, you can find some purebred dogs in the shelters. You don’t have any history of its genetics or past or upbringing, however. So you can’t be guaranteed to get a specific desired result. There are always exceptions to every rule and I’m sure there are many wonderful shelter dogs who can perform jobs just as well. I work with hundreds of them each year. 

Rescues and shelters have been amazingly beneficial as well. They are a perfect place for seasoned or first-time dog owners to find their loving companion. Shelters and Rescues are a much less-expensive way of initially obtaining a dog. The adopters get the great feeling of having saved the life of a dog who may have had a rough beginning. Shelter dogs I have known are often very loyal, very appreciative, and very bonded to their humans that saved them. I experience this love and appreciation every day in my own home. I love my rescue dog. I don’t know how his first 7 months of life was like, but I know 2 of them were in the shelter and rescue. Confidently, he is much better off being with me now, and I’ll keep him for the rest of his life. 

There are great reasons for finding your next dog through either means. Nobody should have to feel bad about looking for a reputable breeder, and nobody should feel demeaned for rescuing a dog that’s sitting in a shelter. How about we #AdoptOrShop #YouChoose.

Published by Amy Noble on 1/8/2020

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Positive Reinforcement Training, Puppies, Training Tips

MONTEREY, CA: The D’s in Dog Training

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There are three D’s to Dog Training, Distance, Distraction, and Duration. Except, we don’t teach them in that order! 

DURATION

We always begin with Duration, which counts for two areas. Duration can mean how long you work with your dog. In the beginning, when they’re just starting out, we begin by teaching them little things here and there while giving them lots of breaks in between. As your puppy grows and matures, it can practice and perform for longer periods of time.

Duration also applies to how long your dog performs a task. When first starting out, we teach the dog what the skill is and that they will get rewarded for performing it. Once that skill becomes reliable, and they’re doing it when asked the first time, we then begin asking for them to either hold it or perform it for a longer period of time. Instead of just doing the skill, they discover that holding that position for a longer period of time then gets them the reward. 

DISTANCE

Once you have established a solid skill and they are doing it for a set period of time, you can begin working on Distancing yourself from the dog. In the example of Stays, we begin by taking one step back, then two, three, etc. Adding Distance creates a more solidly trained dog. Always begin small, and work out from there. 

In the interest of aggressive or reactive dogs we begin further away and slowly work our way closer to the thing that is causing the reactivity. Distance works both ways. 

DISTRACTIONS

Distractions get added as the dog becomes more reliable. They need to learn amongst Distractions, so we add them in slowly. There are four levels to Distractions and they apply in all cases; whether it be obedience training skills, or rehabilitating an aggressive dog. 

Level 1: This is essentially your low level distractions. The way that I explain this to my clients is; it’s a distraction that grabs your pup’s attention but is easy to get it back from. Such as a temporary noise that happens in another room. Their ear would turn, maybe their head but you’re holding a yummy treat so they immediately connect back to you after it’s over. 

Level 2: This is a distraction that is a little bit more exciting to the dog. Something that might cause them to walk away from your treat, and also requires a little more effort on your part to get them back, but they still come back. Example: One of their other humans comes home and walks through the room – puppy runs over to say hello to them. 

Level 3: This distraction is higher up on the enticement scale. This is your pizza man knocking at the door, or hearing someone walk down the sidewalk, on the other side of their fence. This distraction absolutely takes their attention away from you and you need to work at getting it back. Just a treat or a recall won’t do it for them. Usually needs intervention training. If left too long in this stage these distractions can & usually will jump up a level. 

Level 4: This is the highest level of distraction. This is your neighbor and his dog walking towards you down the sidewalk with your dog-reactive dog on a leash. Or a cat that’s running across your yard and your dog has a high level of prey drive. These are distractions that your dog ignores everything, for. They cause your dog to take off running, to pull or lunge at the end of the leash, to completely forget about anything you might be holding or offering him/her. 

A lot of the dogs I meet are at Level 4 and I need to train them down to level 1. So it’s a step-ladder of working at the lower levels and slowly adding more in. Jump too high too fast and it causes confusion and frustration. Also where Distance is important as the closer you get, the higher the Distraction goes. This is why beginning with Duration and Distance is important. Distractions always come last. 

Published by Amy Noble on 12/18/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Training, Dogs, Life, Puppies, summer, Training Tips

Monterey, CA: Back To School! Now, What? Leaving Your New Puppy At Home

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You waited for school to be out this past June so you could pick up your newest family member from the breeder or rescue. It was planned perfectly! The family would spend the whole summer playing with the new puppy. Feeding, watering, potty training, teaching tricks, and getting to know your puppy was what filled this summer’s long days. Memories were made and thousands of pictures taken.

Now it’s September, and school is back in session. The kids are up earlier each day, cranky, rushing out the door, and gone for hours. Afternoon hits and everyone returns home. Snacks handed out, clothes changed and homework begins. We all know that can take a while. Then dinner, some down-time, and bed. All to do it over again, 4 more days of the week. Throw in sports plus after-school activities, there isn’t a whole lot of time left in the day. 

Your life changes drastically overnight, in the eyes of your puppy. There is no explaining to them, the immediate change in the amount of attention they will get during the day; however, there are ways that you can prepare them, and make it more comfortable for them when the time does come.

-Take Breaks: The most important thing to remember is to not spend 24/7 with your puppy. DO leave the house at times. Take everyone with you, so that the puppy can learn to be alone and have it be okay. Start small, build onto that time. 

-Keep Puppy Occupied: Giving the puppy something to do like chew on a Filled Kong Toy or a bone will keep their minds occupied on something yummy and good, instead of your absence.

-Leave Radio On: Get the puppy used to having something like the radio playing, or a tv on low. If you do, be sure to leave it on something upbeat and positive. Dogs do respond to the energy of the tone of what they’re listening to. I tend to leave the TV on animal shows. 

-Puzzle Toys: Give your puppy something stimulating to do and think about. Buy or make DIY Puzzle toys for your dog to sniff at, play with, and receive rewards from. Keeping their brains busy on something constructive and good, instead of your absence. 

When school starts, and you’re the only one home with the puppy – play with them! They’re going to love the one-on-one time. Plus, they will benefit from learning to play with different family members and their styles of play; teaching them social flexibility. Playing stimulates their brain and causes them to be tired. Depending on the age of your puppy, sometimes just a 30 minute session can result in a 2-3 hour nap. 

Training! I’m always going to suggest this one. Spend some time teaching tricks or basic obedience before school, when the kids are at school, and while they’re busy doing homework. It’s a perfect time to teach Leave-It, Attention getters, and Stays! 

Puppy play dates are always fun too! If you have friends that also have young dogs, and everybody is up to date on vaccinations – meet in your backyard or your friend’s backyard and have a play session. Guaranteed to cause a massive nap attack for the rest of the day. 

Something to remember? School-age children should not be held completely responsible for the new dog. You got it to help teach responsibility – which is a great idea! It definitely does. Responsibility is not something that just manifests out of thin air, it falls on you as the parent (or guardian) to guide and show them what to do and how to manage their time. When the children are busy with their primary responsibility, school, the adults in the house need to take over the roll of playmate and leader with the puppy. 

The whole family should be involved with Puppy’s raising and training. Everybody has a part in the family – including our dogs. If everybody does their piece the puppy will learn exactly where they fit in. Resulting in a much more harmonious household. 

Published by Amy Noble on 9/4/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Positive Reinforcement Training, Puppies, Training Tips

Monterey, CA: Why Training Though?

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Besides the obvious reasons of having a well-mannered, short, furry member of your family – Do you know why it’s a good idea that every single doggy household should go through some training?

Brain Plasticity is the ability for the brain to modify it’s connections and rewire itself.
This is what learning and re-learning is. This is the entire basis of what I do. I can take dogs who have learned to behave, act and react in one way and I am able to rewire the brain to think, react, and act a completely different way – while leaving the personality completely in tact.

Whether or not they have behavioral issues, we all run into hurdles, stumbles and naughty puppies somewhere along the line. But because they may act a certain way, doesn’t mean that they need to be labeled or expected to stay that way forever. This is why I specialize in correcting severe behaviors and all forms of aggression, and have been able to fix what others have said could never be.

Our dogs have thoughts, personalities, emotions, and reactions just like us, and they get bored just like our children do – heck adults still get bored too. As puppies their minds and bodies are growing, learning, shaping and becoming who they will be through exploring the world around them. Training brings a change of pace, has them guessing and striving to do things for you because it’s fun and rewarding! It’s very stimulating to do any kind of training with your dog. Whether it be Obedience, Agility, Assistance / Service Dog work, Rally or any other forms of dog sports and activities. 

Training is stimulating to your dog, no matter their age, they enjoy learning new things or practicing well-known skills. When you work with your dog on obedience or tricks or agility – whatever it is, you are working out their brain muscles. Just like children in school, stimulating the brain to function is good for their health, and makes them tired too! And a tired puppy is a GOOD puppy! Thinking and working for treats and toys is mentally exhausting for them in a good way. Do let them take frequent naps in order for their new learning to settle in, and their bodies to unwind. 

When you’re training with your dog, you’re spending quality time with them each day where the two of you are having fun, communicating with one another and bonding. It should be fun for the both of you, where you continue to improve, progress and over time, work together as a stronger team. All of which makes your life with your dog that much more enjoyable. 

Something to remember: Regularly working with your dog is good for your health. Interacting with your dog has been proven to release endorphins in both species, and we biologically respond to one another the same way parents do with their children. Also? Patients who are recovering from illnesses or surgeries recover faster when they have a dog present, their own dog even faster. 

In Short, It’s all around good for everyone!

Published by Amy Noble on 8/28/19
Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Training, Dogs, Puppies, Training Tips

Noms For Kong’s – Recipes for Your Pups

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A tool that I often use and highly recommend is the classic Kong toy. They have different durabilities for different types of bites that’ll be chomping on them. (Side Note: If Biteforce is interesting to you? Check THIS out!) They have puppy Kongs, regular, medium, tough, and mega tough! If you have a big chewer – get the tougher ones! They are color-coded as well, to make them easily findable in a lineup.

I always kept several black “Mega Chewer” Kongs around for my previous, 100lb dogs. It took a bit for them as puppies to really get into using them, but once they learned what they were, it was something they got multiple times a week!

Kongs can be a life-saver on the ears (barkers), on your furniture (destructive chewers), can ease anxiety, and keep a bored puppy busy for a while! They are a great tool and toy that I think every doggy household should have several, of. I like to keep 2-3 per dog, especially puppies, so that way one is being used, one is soaking, and the other is ready to go!

Filling them with something tasty is just as important as the toy itself. That’s what gets them to find interest in the first place, it also provides added enrichment to their lives. Sure, peanut butter is a good idea and easy to do, but don’t you think variety is more fun? Keep them guessing! Not only are these recipes full of different tastes and textures, your dogs will also be getting added nutrients too!

Just like children, dogs will have likes and dislikes. Some dogs love broccoli where others can’t stand it. I have even known dogs who would refuse steak! My advice is to start small. Don’t make a huge batch of anything until you know your dog will enjoy it, and not have any tummy issues with it. Ease into anything new you give your dog, and if your dog has any medical issues please ask your vet before you attempt to give them anything new to ensure it won’t conflict with their health.

If you use Peanut Butter, please only use *Natural* Peanut Butter. Ingredients should read: Peanuts and Salt. That’s it. There are several brands out there that are in your normal grocery stores that carry Natural Peanut Butter. The other brands that have additives put ingredients such as sugars or flavorings, and xylitol which are not good for your dog to consume.

All of these recipes can be given either blended up to a thick milkshake or oatmeal consistency, or sliced and stirred up together like a “fruit salad”. If it’s too moist or liquidy, it can make a real big mess once thawed. Thicker is better. Mix and Match them however you like – get creative! It’s about enrichment and fun. Most recipes are allergy-friendly.

Begin by giving ¼ cup – ½ cup, depending on the size of the dog. Keep in mind how much you are giving them – the calories will add up! I also recommend throwing it in the freezer for at least 6 hours to solidify, that way it can last longer for your dog.

You can add: treats, kibble, meat pieces to any of these. Either top with them or hide in the mixture as little “easter eggs” for your pupper to find.

Yes, I named them all after dogs I’ve known and worked with.

1. Autumn’s Harvest Snack

-Pumpkin Puree 

-Mashed Sweet Potato

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Diced Carrots

-Kibble bits

2. Baby’s Healthy Start

-Applesauce

-Cooked Rice

-Shredded Chicken

-Blueberries

3. Little Monster’s Nibbles

-Cooked Rice

-Chicken Broth

-Mashed Sweet Potato

-Peas & Carrots Mix

4. Kaylee’s Delight

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Diced Apple

-Rolled Oats

-Shredded Chicken

5. Harley’s Go-To

-Cheese 

-Pumpkin Puree

-Carrots

-Diced Apple

-Shredded Chicken

6. Zhadie’s Fave

-Sliced Strawberries

-Chicken Broth

-Cooked Rice

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Rolled Oats

7. Cocoa’s Shake

-Blueberries

-Applesauce

-Diced Carrots

-Plain Greek Yogurt

8. Love, Rosie & Charlie

-Cooked Rice

-Green Beans

-Cranberries

-Apple Chunks

-Capelin Whole Fish (treats)

9. Preferred By Tobi

-Pumpkin Puree

-Apple Slices

-Shredded Chicken

-Cooked Rice

10. Penyo’s Plate

-Cooked Rice

-Steak Strips

-Green Beans

-Mashed Sweet Potato

11. Only For Prince

-Crunchy Peanut Butter

-Blueberries

-Kibble

-Shredded Chicken

-Applesauce

12. Shadow’s Delight

-Mashed Banana

-Peanut Butter

-Shredded Chicken

-Peas & Carrots

13. Remy’s BurgerHead Special

-Ground Beef Patty (plain)

-Cubed Cheese

-Strawberry Slices

-Pumpkin Purée

Happy Snacking! 🐶

Published by Amy Noble on 8/14/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Positive Reinforcement Training, Puppies, Training Tips

Monterey, Ca: Potty Training with Puppies

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Puppies are some of the cutest little beings on the planet! They’re soft, and lovable, playful, bouncy, and so easy to pick up and snuggle.

Quick! What’s the first puppy con that comes to mind?! (Except for biting/chewing 😉) Yup, Potty Training!

The number one asked question of every new dog owner – And number one concern of every parent of every child whose ever mentioned the word “puppy”.

It can be a frustrating time, sometimes longer than anticipated, or it can be smooth and easy. I’ve experienced it all different ways and as I say to everyone? Every dog is different.

My King Shepherd and Malamute were the easiest two – Done in just a weekend. Next easiest would be Kiba our current Husky/WGSD; though in his favor – he was already about 7 months old when we got him and had already been getting potty trained in his foster home (Thanks Sara!). Our Border Collie kid, Raizo and my past Husky Prince tie for the most difficult. Thankfully for me, my parents did most of Prince’s training. And coincidentally – these two were trained using the same technique, paper (pad) training.

Let’s get into it – Which way is best? Easiest? Most effective? The answer, as always is “That depends…”

It depends on how much time you have, how quickly your puppy learns, how routinely you live, and even the type of environment you live in. You could train to go on puppy pads and eventually move them closer to the door and outside. You could use the good old frequent trips outside to show them where to go. There are grass patches now that act as doggy litter boxes that can be effective. An actual doggy litter box with absorbent puppy-safe litter.

What matters most is being consistent and having a set routine. Everybody benefits from having a regular routine of the time you wake, when you exercise and have meals, work, and the time you close it all down for the night to sleep. Just to do it all over again several days a week.

Having a puppy on a set meal routine for instance, will encourage regular, fairly predictable trips out to potty. Having a walk each day will also help keep their systems running regular.

Your rules of thumb are; Every time they wake up from sleep or a nap, potty. Every time after a meal from immediately to up to 30 minutes later, potty. After a big play session of running, zooming and bouncing, potty. Essentially, they go about every 30 mins to an hour. You can do the leg work and take them out to their spot to encourage them to go – but be sure to throw a puppy potty party after! You want them to feel good about where they go!

If they go inside on the carpet, just remember that they’re learning. We wouldn’t get angry at our infants for soiling their diapers. Don’t get angry at the puppy.

Puppies aren’t completely in tuned with their bodies. It takes a bit for them to recognize patterns of the physical feelings and sensations, what they mean, and how to take care of it. When you do your due diligence and pay close attention you will start to notice their signs and it is up to you to guide your little one to the correct spot.

Things to look for: Sudden sniffing in circles, tail held high, sometimes stiffened at the base, then you’ll see concentration show up on their face – bring them to their spot!

Sometimes the act of stopping them to bring them out can startle them and then their bodies shut down and they don’t need to go anymore. That’s ok, try again in another 10 minutes or so.

Reward, reward, reward! That is what will train them faster than anything else. Have some special “potty party” treats that you give when they’ve successfully gone in the right spot.

Just remember it takes time, patience and proactive consistency!

Published by Amy Noble on 7/17/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.