Tag Archives: dog behaviorist

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs

CARMEL, CA: 7 DOGGY HACKS

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Do you ever get frustrated with the simplest things with your dog? You’re not alone! I see a lot of people asking for advice for a lot of these situations. It might sound silly, but there’s no silly question. Enjoy these doggy hacks!

DISPENSING PILLS:

Many people put pills in peanut butter and claim it doesn’t work. Their dogs find the pill, eat the peanut butter around it, and spit the pill out on the floor. Try these…

First – When you are training your dog to enjoy Peanut Butter filled kong’s and bones? Use Crunchy Peanut Butter! They get used to the texture and taste of the crunchy peanuts in the spread, so when you need to hide a pill in some – It’s truly hidden! They think it’s another piece of crunchy PB. They’ll just swallow it down with the rest.

Second – Line up a row of treats. Small crunchy bones work; Charlee Bears are good too. Put the pill amongst them somewhere in the lineup. Speak to your dog excitedly about getting treats and start handing them out quickly! They match energy like a little wind-up toy, when you speak quickly and happily they will get excited and want the treats fast! The trick here is to hand them out fast. I like giving at least 2 treats first, before I give the pill, followed immediately with another treat. If you do this quick enough, they won’t have the time to think of what’s going in their mouth. 

DE-STINKING SKUNK SPRAY:

Many dogs have been blasted by skunks over the years. I’ve had my fair share of that happening in my own backyard. The first piece of advice that people give is to use tomato juice. However, there’s a better method. Massengil. Yes, the douche. One wash and you have no more skunk smell left! 

The way that you’d wash your dog with Massengil; Soak your dog first so they are thoroughly dampened. Then you pour the Massengil all over their coat, massage it in. Let them sit for a minute or two, then rinse off. The oils from the skunk spray will get stripped by the douche. You can follow up with a regular shampoo afterwards.

SLOW DOWN FAST EATERS:

Many dogs inhale their food. This can be bad, or cause bloat if they take in too much air while scarfing down their meals. There are many fancy bowls that have been designed to slow down these pups with their structure. You could get one if you like. I’ve seen dogs knock it over to get the food out of it before, however. Or, you could continue to use their cute decorative regular bowl and just add some water to the food. I like floating my dogs’ food like cereal because it slows them down, makes the food more palatable, aids in digestion, and it adds some extra hydration in their day. 

NAIL TRIM TRICK:

To make nail trimming much easier, do it when you’re bathing your dog. When they’re standing in warm water, the nails soften. This makes cutting them quicker, easier, and not so scary for the dogs. 

If you cut a nail too short, and you don’t have any styptic powder, you can use flour or cornstarch to stop the bleeding. Don’t make a big deal out of trimming the nails too short. If you react, then your dog will get smart and use this in his bag of tricks for getting you to stop later on. Just staunch the bleeding off in a shallow bowl or plate of styptic powder, or flour.

PICKING UP YOUR DOG’S DEPOSIT ON A WALK:

Walking gets the body moving, and some dogs just gotta go while on a walk. They also like to sprint off after pooping, too! So, how do you deal with picking up your dog’s deposit when he wants to run flying off the handle right after? I step on the leash. By stepping on the center of my leash, it frees up both of my hands in order to grab a bag, open it up, pick up what they dropped down, tie it off and then continue the walk. I don’t have a dog tugging at me, or getting in the way while I’m cleaning up after them. 

Also, what to do with those full bags and no garbage cans around? I’ll double-bag the mess, tie it off and then use the excess bag to tie around my leash. Hands free, full bag comes with us and I’m feeling good about being a responsible doggy mom. 

CALMING OVER-EXCITED / ANXIOUS BEHAVIORS:

Dogs watch patterns and learn what patterns mean. They are very observant and love to be able to predict their surroundings. When they’ve learned that particular patterns mean things like going for a walk, or getting fed, the pattern itself becomes just as exciting as the end result. Switch your pattern around, or have it result in something different. 

For doggies that go crazy over dinnertime, (believe me, I’m talking about my own dogs here!) we hide the food in a totally different part of the house. We also pick up their bowls immediately after they are done eating. When they don’t get to watch you prepare their food, there is nothing to be anxious about. We just appear with food at one point and they get to eat. No more craziness, screaming or over-excitement. 

KONG ENRICHMENT HACK:

When giving your dog a Kong toy, try freezing it. This has the tasty treat last longer for your dog, and they enjoy the coolness of it. I fill the Kong with one of my recipes, throw it in the freezer overnight then give it to them the next day. The treat lasts longer than 5 minutes and it keeps my pups busy!

Published by Amy Noble on 1/22/20

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs

CARMEL, CA: The Way And The Reason I Work.

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Someone asked me recently, “What makes YOU so special?” And, honestly? I love this question! There is something different about me and it does contribute to how and why I work so well with animals – and humans!

I’m a very calm, confident person and I give off that energy to those around me. Dogs are pack animals and appreciate a leader who knows “the way out of the woods,” so-to-speak. A leader who can handle any situation with confidence and ease – so they don’t have to. 

Energy! It’s all about the energy that I give off and even use to communicate with.

I also have a very good grasp of emotions happening; inside of me or within the people around me. I tend to keep myself very positive-neutral and under control – which translates to “leader” in dogs. The confidence I have, and my restraint from having emotional reactions come from years of my own work in self-reflection and understanding the brain and body coherence. 

If a dog is acutely aware of their present self and physical body position / motion, why can’t we be the same? It’s because we’ve become distracted, it’s been trained out of us. I have learned to enhance and utilize it to work for me, with animals, children, and the non-verbal in general. 

And Yes, I do use this same form of self-energy control and distribution to communicate as well. This is a bit more tricky to explain and teach; however, it’s something that we are all capable of. Everybody has the potential – it’s in our code. It’s the same as your gut feelings, your intuition – your Spidey-Senses! You’ve even experienced it before without being aware. Picture this…

You’ve just gotten out of a late night class. The campus is empty and dark. When you showed up earlier, the parking lot was full – so you had to park in the far back. As you pass one of the buildings you see a dark figure leaning against the wall, nobody else is around and suddenly you feel very anxious to get to your car. Your pace quickens, your footsteps pounding in your ears. Your breathing becomes quick and shallow. Your lonely car out there in the lot, by itself in the dark seems to be so far away; it feels like someone is looming right over your shoulder – about to grab you! 

The very next morning news gets to you that a building on your campus was broken into. The very same building you saw the figure the night prior. You felt something was wrong, you knew something was off about that place, that person, that time. You don’t know why or how, but you acted on that feeling by getting to your car quickly, your brain pumping your body full of adrenaline to give you the strength and speed to complete your one and only task of survival. 

It’s instinctual and can be fine-tuned to your advantage whenever you need it.  

Alternatively – You’ve just walked into a new school on day 1. You look around the room for an empty seat, trying not to be noticed. When you lock eyes with a new stranger and they smile. It’s as if a light has shone upon them; all your nerves disappear, you smile easily and suddenly you feel relaxed and excited to start this new year. The two of you have now been the best of friends (or lovers) for 25 years.

I just happened to notice that animals responded much quicker and easier to it all than people did. Though people absolutely can and do – just as well! 

I have been particularly sensitive to these types of moments and feelings since I was a very young child. It’s a silent language that we all are capable of speaking. I just happen to have practiced quietly, internally, since I can remember. Being a child whose vision depended on being extremely observant of my environment, situations, motions, emotions, behaviors and the people around me certainly helped my case. I had to rely on those senses and energy shifts and changes to tell me how to react and adapt in my life.

Energy shifts are the way of animal language:
The deer NEVER needs to walk up to the wolf and ask if he is a friend. He just knows. Zebra know the exact moment to run; the moment the lion has chosen to chase. Instinctual energies have a very palpable feel to them, and as soon as you learn to recognize and read them, is when you can be several steps ahead of the creature you’re working with. 

I do my best to teach this to every one of my clients.

Every time I’ve had a dog on lead who’s decided to attack another, I feel something like a pulse of energy, almost like a puff of air that hits me first. My reflexes and reaction time must be precise to ensure the safety of everybody involved. So I stop it before it starts, or gets too far.

If I start to lose a dog’s attention and they go dancing away, I can picture and *feel* something like an elastic band or cord attached between us, that encourages them to come back by tugging at them to return to me.

That is how I was always able to catch dogs running loose in the neighborhood. 

Now you see, there is something different about me, something special that I have that others may not. I work on many levels with my animals and people, so that everyone benefits and their lives improve. That’s my ultimate goal – to improve the lives of others through transforming relationships with their animals. <3

Published by Amy Noble on 10/23/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.


Dog Training, Dogs, Life, Puppies, summer, Training Tips

Monterey, CA: Back To School! Now, What? Leaving Your New Puppy At Home

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You waited for school to be out this past June so you could pick up your newest family member from the breeder or rescue. It was planned perfectly! The family would spend the whole summer playing with the new puppy. Feeding, watering, potty training, teaching tricks, and getting to know your puppy was what filled this summer’s long days. Memories were made and thousands of pictures taken.

Now it’s September, and school is back in session. The kids are up earlier each day, cranky, rushing out the door, and gone for hours. Afternoon hits and everyone returns home. Snacks handed out, clothes changed and homework begins. We all know that can take a while. Then dinner, some down-time, and bed. All to do it over again, 4 more days of the week. Throw in sports plus after-school activities, there isn’t a whole lot of time left in the day. 

Your life changes drastically overnight, in the eyes of your puppy. There is no explaining to them, the immediate change in the amount of attention they will get during the day; however, there are ways that you can prepare them, and make it more comfortable for them when the time does come.

-Take Breaks: The most important thing to remember is to not spend 24/7 with your puppy. DO leave the house at times. Take everyone with you, so that the puppy can learn to be alone and have it be okay. Start small, build onto that time. 

-Keep Puppy Occupied: Giving the puppy something to do like chew on a Filled Kong Toy or a bone will keep their minds occupied on something yummy and good, instead of your absence.

-Leave Radio On: Get the puppy used to having something like the radio playing, or a tv on low. If you do, be sure to leave it on something upbeat and positive. Dogs do respond to the energy of the tone of what they’re listening to. I tend to leave the TV on animal shows. 

-Puzzle Toys: Give your puppy something stimulating to do and think about. Buy or make DIY Puzzle toys for your dog to sniff at, play with, and receive rewards from. Keeping their brains busy on something constructive and good, instead of your absence. 

When school starts, and you’re the only one home with the puppy – play with them! They’re going to love the one-on-one time. Plus, they will benefit from learning to play with different family members and their styles of play; teaching them social flexibility. Playing stimulates their brain and causes them to be tired. Depending on the age of your puppy, sometimes just a 30 minute session can result in a 2-3 hour nap. 

Training! I’m always going to suggest this one. Spend some time teaching tricks or basic obedience before school, when the kids are at school, and while they’re busy doing homework. It’s a perfect time to teach Leave-It, Attention getters, and Stays! 

Puppy play dates are always fun too! If you have friends that also have young dogs, and everybody is up to date on vaccinations – meet in your backyard or your friend’s backyard and have a play session. Guaranteed to cause a massive nap attack for the rest of the day. 

Something to remember? School-age children should not be held completely responsible for the new dog. You got it to help teach responsibility – which is a great idea! It definitely does. Responsibility is not something that just manifests out of thin air, it falls on you as the parent (or guardian) to guide and show them what to do and how to manage their time. When the children are busy with their primary responsibility, school, the adults in the house need to take over the roll of playmate and leader with the puppy. 

The whole family should be involved with Puppy’s raising and training. Everybody has a part in the family – including our dogs. If everybody does their piece the puppy will learn exactly where they fit in. Resulting in a much more harmonious household. 

Published by Amy Noble on 9/4/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Positive Reinforcement Training, Puppies, Training Tips

Monterey, CA: Why Training Though?

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Besides the obvious reasons of having a well-mannered, short, furry member of your family – Do you know why it’s a good idea that every single doggy household should go through some training?

Brain Plasticity is the ability for the brain to modify it’s connections and rewire itself.
This is what learning and re-learning is. This is the entire basis of what I do. I can take dogs who have learned to behave, act and react in one way and I am able to rewire the brain to think, react, and act a completely different way – while leaving the personality completely in tact.

Whether or not they have behavioral issues, we all run into hurdles, stumbles and naughty puppies somewhere along the line. But because they may act a certain way, doesn’t mean that they need to be labeled or expected to stay that way forever. This is why I specialize in correcting severe behaviors and all forms of aggression, and have been able to fix what others have said could never be.

Our dogs have thoughts, personalities, emotions, and reactions just like us, and they get bored just like our children do – heck adults still get bored too. As puppies their minds and bodies are growing, learning, shaping and becoming who they will be through exploring the world around them. Training brings a change of pace, has them guessing and striving to do things for you because it’s fun and rewarding! It’s very stimulating to do any kind of training with your dog. Whether it be Obedience, Agility, Assistance / Service Dog work, Rally or any other forms of dog sports and activities. 

Training is stimulating to your dog, no matter their age, they enjoy learning new things or practicing well-known skills. When you work with your dog on obedience or tricks or agility – whatever it is, you are working out their brain muscles. Just like children in school, stimulating the brain to function is good for their health, and makes them tired too! And a tired puppy is a GOOD puppy! Thinking and working for treats and toys is mentally exhausting for them in a good way. Do let them take frequent naps in order for their new learning to settle in, and their bodies to unwind. 

When you’re training with your dog, you’re spending quality time with them each day where the two of you are having fun, communicating with one another and bonding. It should be fun for the both of you, where you continue to improve, progress and over time, work together as a stronger team. All of which makes your life with your dog that much more enjoyable. 

Something to remember: Regularly working with your dog is good for your health. Interacting with your dog has been proven to release endorphins in both species, and we biologically respond to one another the same way parents do with their children. Also? Patients who are recovering from illnesses or surgeries recover faster when they have a dog present, their own dog even faster. 

In Short, It’s all around good for everyone!

Published by Amy Noble on 8/28/19
Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Training, Dogs, Equipment, Training Tips

MONTEREY, CA: NOT ALL LEASHES ARE CREATED EQUAL

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You would think that a leash is just a leash. They aren’t – there are different types and different times and reasons for them. I will cover the ones I’ve had experience with and why I would recommend them or not. I do have my favorites, yet also continue to try new products all the time, to find the perfect tool(s) for each situation.

RETRACTABLE LEASHES:

Let’s just start with these guys and get them out of the way, and these are probably the one leash I write the most about. This is one of the most popular leashes on the market. They seem like a really good idea – give your dog 2 feet, or 25! To run and sniff and play on their daily walkies, right? No. These are a bad idea.

They are not safe for you or your dog. 

First, if your dog is at full extension, or anything over 3 feet really, you have lost control of your dog and any situation that may arise. Consider this: You’ve just gotten off work, it’s been a long week. You take Mitzi out for her walkies to the park down the street, something you’ve done every day since you adopted her two years ago. Tonight you’re checking your phone while Mitzi is 15 feet away from you sniffing a bush. Suddenly, without any warning, a stray dog who is highly dog aggressive comes out from the other side of that bush, and he triggers onto your Mitzi. 15 Feet is going to take you MUCH longer to get to your dog, by either retracting or running, than that aggressive dog just two feet away. 

Dogs also startle at times; retractable leashes give your dog the too-easy opportunity to bolt out into the street, not paying attention to where they’re going. Or run into a yard, or across a driveway too far away from you. There are many situations that can, and do, happen. 

On the human side of things…

Most of these leashes are a blend of a long wire and a short bit of actual nylon leash. There are the types that are fully nylon, but that does not improve them much. If you have a dog that is fully extended who gets excited, scared, playful, chased, whatever it might be? Locked or not, it becomes a weapon against you. I have seen people get wrapped up in these and cut bad. I’ve seen people get tied up in them and fall over because the dog took off around them in a circle. I’ve seen the leash snap off at the dog and the recoil whips people in the face, arms or body. I’ve seen people drop the handle and the heavy plastic casing hits their dog. I have seen a lot happen with handlers and these leashes that I just say, do yourself and your dog a favor and just don’t use them. 

NYLON LEASHES

I like these, they are pretty durable, generally pretty cheap depending on the type that you get (leather handle / double handle) and they come in many varieties of color and patterns. The most important thing about these leashes is that you don’t leave them accessible for your dogs to chew up. I recommend a 4-6ft length medium or heavy grade for comfort and control.

LEATHER LEASHES

I love using leather leashes. These are my favorite type of leash to use. I have one that I’ve been using since 2000. My favorite part about these is they give you a very comfortable grip on your dog. The best thing about them? The more you use them, the softer they become. Still giving you a good grip after 15+ years. I highly recommend using these 6 ft is a good length for training and walking. 

TAB LEASHES

These leashes are fabulous for close-contact training as well as preparation for off-leash training. They are about 1-2 ft long with the handle taking up ½-¾ of the length. This keeps your dog in very close control to you. It doesn’t give them a lot of room to run around or get ahead or behind you. I have used these my entire dog career. I highly recommend getting one of these. The material isn’t AS important as your regular training lead; however, I do like leather or at least a leather-cushioned handle. Be sure the clip is very strong and durable. 

DOUBLE LEAD

These come as an extension that you put on your regular leash, where it has a central ring and two clips on the ends of two short (1 ft) leashes. These are used for people with multiple dogs who want to walk them at the same time together. I am okay with these being used as long as your two dogs do not have the potential to “take out” any sort of reaction on each other, in case anything were to occur on your walk. Sometimes dogs can get over stimulated if they are leash-reactive, and if they have a dog near them they will react at the nearest warm body because they can’t get to the offender. If you have dogs that do not react to dogs, or will not reciprocate if a dog reacts at them, then yes – these are a wonderful tool to have for multiple dog families! 

Another type is a single 7 ft lead that has three rings and two clips on it. This is the lead that I use most often and prefer it in leather. Currently I have a heavy cotton type and though it’s comfortable – I prefer my leather. This leash can be used for two dogs to keep them at 7 ft length apart, or you can clip several small extensions on it, you can wrap it around your waist and clip it to you as a hands-free leash, you can give it a handle and use it as a regular leash. There are so many things you can do with this one leash which is why I am a big fan of this one! I definitely recommend having one in your dog supply closet.

LONG LINE

Long lines are used as training tools. They are 20-50 ft and made of nylon or a thick cotton-type material. All of them come with handle for you and a clip at the other end for the dog – just like a very giant, well, leash. Long lines would not be good for going on your average walks; however, if you’re training your dog in the field they are great. I use these for working on recall as well as working on distance stays. Yes I use them out in the world at parks or in the front yard. Again it is used for training purposes only and that means that I and my dog are both 100% focused on one another and I am staying in control of the situation. Very different from your 25 ft retractable leash. 

CHAIN LEASH

Chain leashes come in second to retractable leashes for me. Only in extremely rare cases would I ever recommend one of these. They are uncomfortable on your hands, they restrict you to only holding onto the handle which is usually about 8” long, giving your dog 4 ft+ of freedom to do whatever. In the rare cases that I have recommended this type of leash, I have also required the handler buy a comfortable set of leather gloves in order to handle the leash. I don’t recommend this one for any reasons beyond habitual leash-biters / destroyers in which the handlers cannot get them to stop chewing on the leash when they use it – Only after we have exhausted every other option out there including training. (VERY rare! Did I emphasize this enough?)

LEAD ROPE

I like lead ropes because I use them with horses. That being said, they do not have a handle attached to them, so they are not as recommended with dogs who might have a habit of bolting or spooking. When I use a lead rope on a dog, it’s because I probably don’t have any other option, usually only used on a dog who is VERY well-behaved with leash manners. They are soft, round, and come in many patterns. OK to get if you want something different or more durable for your dog and comfortable on your hands. 

CABLE

Cables are industrial strength wires encased in a hard plastic, with clips on either end. These are for temporary or training purposes. The only times I use cables are the times that I need to tie a dog out for a short period of time where I might need both hands, and/or I don’t want any potential leash-chewing or destroying happening. If I know I have a dog who would chew his way off of the lead in an uncontained area, that’s when I’ll grab a cable to tie them out with. These can be potentially dangerous so I do not recommend ever leaving your dog tied up for any amount of time alone, regardless of what they are on. I would bring a cable out camping if I had a dog who was a wanderer. In most other cases, I would probably rather use a crate for containment.

WATERPROOF LEASH

These are best used for when you head to the beach, lake, or river. They don’t absorb the mud and dirt from where you’re visiting, and they can easily be rinsed off, keeping their often bright colors. Best used with waterproof collars too! These are great for bath time if you have a doggo who is not much of a fan – easy to hang onto them, and the water won’t ruin the collar / leash. Very convenient.  

LEASH LAW

California does have a leash law stating that your dog must be on a leash at all times in any public place. Off-leash is a concept and goal that many people would like to get their dogs to. Which I understand and highly recommend! But I do not recommend it so that you can go everywhere with your dog off-leash. I recommend Off-Leash training for purposes of having your dog listen if it were to ever get off of the leash accidentally. 

There are places that are designated off-leash dog parks and beaches. Dogs are, of course, allowed to be off of the leash, as long as they are social, well-behaved, can listen to direction well, and come when you call them. This is where off-leash training comes in very handy. There are no exemptions from the leash law. 

In cases of Service Dogs, Police Dogs, Search and Rescue dogs the law says that they need to be under complete handler control and usually these dogs are still wearing a lead that is short enough to not interfere with the dog’s job or task.

Published by Amy Noble on 8/21/19


Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Training, Dogs, Puppies, Training Tips

Noms For Kong’s – Recipes for Your Pups

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A tool that I often use and highly recommend is the classic Kong toy. They have different durabilities for different types of bites that’ll be chomping on them. (Side Note: If Biteforce is interesting to you? Check THIS out!) They have puppy Kongs, regular, medium, tough, and mega tough! If you have a big chewer – get the tougher ones! They are color-coded as well, to make them easily findable in a lineup.

I always kept several black “Mega Chewer” Kongs around for my previous, 100lb dogs. It took a bit for them as puppies to really get into using them, but once they learned what they were, it was something they got multiple times a week!

Kongs can be a life-saver on the ears (barkers), on your furniture (destructive chewers), can ease anxiety, and keep a bored puppy busy for a while! They are a great tool and toy that I think every doggy household should have several, of. I like to keep 2-3 per dog, especially puppies, so that way one is being used, one is soaking, and the other is ready to go!

Filling them with something tasty is just as important as the toy itself. That’s what gets them to find interest in the first place, it also provides added enrichment to their lives. Sure, peanut butter is a good idea and easy to do, but don’t you think variety is more fun? Keep them guessing! Not only are these recipes full of different tastes and textures, your dogs will also be getting added nutrients too!

Just like children, dogs will have likes and dislikes. Some dogs love broccoli where others can’t stand it. I have even known dogs who would refuse steak! My advice is to start small. Don’t make a huge batch of anything until you know your dog will enjoy it, and not have any tummy issues with it. Ease into anything new you give your dog, and if your dog has any medical issues please ask your vet before you attempt to give them anything new to ensure it won’t conflict with their health.

If you use Peanut Butter, please only use *Natural* Peanut Butter. Ingredients should read: Peanuts and Salt. That’s it. There are several brands out there that are in your normal grocery stores that carry Natural Peanut Butter. The other brands that have additives put ingredients such as sugars or flavorings, and xylitol which are not good for your dog to consume.

All of these recipes can be given either blended up to a thick milkshake or oatmeal consistency, or sliced and stirred up together like a “fruit salad”. If it’s too moist or liquidy, it can make a real big mess once thawed. Thicker is better. Mix and Match them however you like – get creative! It’s about enrichment and fun. Most recipes are allergy-friendly.

Begin by giving ¼ cup – ½ cup, depending on the size of the dog. Keep in mind how much you are giving them – the calories will add up! I also recommend throwing it in the freezer for at least 6 hours to solidify, that way it can last longer for your dog.

You can add: treats, kibble, meat pieces to any of these. Either top with them or hide in the mixture as little “easter eggs” for your pupper to find.

Yes, I named them all after dogs I’ve known and worked with.

1. Autumn’s Harvest Snack

-Pumpkin Puree 

-Mashed Sweet Potato

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Diced Carrots

-Kibble bits

2. Baby’s Healthy Start

-Applesauce

-Cooked Rice

-Shredded Chicken

-Blueberries

3. Little Monster’s Nibbles

-Cooked Rice

-Chicken Broth

-Mashed Sweet Potato

-Peas & Carrots Mix

4. Kaylee’s Delight

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Diced Apple

-Rolled Oats

-Shredded Chicken

5. Harley’s Go-To

-Cheese 

-Pumpkin Puree

-Carrots

-Diced Apple

-Shredded Chicken

6. Zhadie’s Fave

-Sliced Strawberries

-Chicken Broth

-Cooked Rice

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Rolled Oats

7. Cocoa’s Shake

-Blueberries

-Applesauce

-Diced Carrots

-Plain Greek Yogurt

8. Love, Rosie & Charlie

-Cooked Rice

-Green Beans

-Cranberries

-Apple Chunks

-Capelin Whole Fish (treats)

9. Preferred By Tobi

-Pumpkin Puree

-Apple Slices

-Shredded Chicken

-Cooked Rice

10. Penyo’s Plate

-Cooked Rice

-Steak Strips

-Green Beans

-Mashed Sweet Potato

11. Only For Prince

-Crunchy Peanut Butter

-Blueberries

-Kibble

-Shredded Chicken

-Applesauce

12. Shadow’s Delight

-Mashed Banana

-Peanut Butter

-Shredded Chicken

-Peas & Carrots

13. Remy’s BurgerHead Special

-Ground Beef Patty (plain)

-Cubed Cheese

-Strawberry Slices

-Pumpkin Purée

Happy Snacking! 🐶

Published by Amy Noble on 8/14/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Service Animals, Training Tips

Carmel, Ca: Service Dogs: Paw’rt Two.

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Miss Paw’rt One? Read it Here!

(Feature Image: Custom Patch by Jubalee’s Vests & Patches)

You’ve determined that you could benefit from having a service dog. What’s next? You’ve got a few options.

You can look into getting a program dog. A program dog is one that has been raised in a program specifically designed to select and train service dogs for certain groups of people. You’ve got Guide dogs for the blind, as an example. These dogs have been specially selected from puppies and have been put through their extensive training program for up to two years, to learn how to do their job most effectively. Not all puppies make the cut, but the ones that do can run you upwards of $25k-$50k depending on where you get them and what for. In the case of Guide Dogs For The Blind, they are a free service run on donations and volunteers. However, in other programs there can be a large cost associated.

Don’t get discouraged. I know that’s a really high price tag! But keep reading.

There are breeders who have done a lot of work with their lines to produce service dog prospects. They are able to tell their new puppy owners which ones would do best as a service dog or therapy dog. Usually they pick one or several for you to choose as your SD puppy. These guys can go for normal breeder prices, or slightly higher, about $1k-$2k. If you go this route, do your due diligence on the breeder you choose to be sure that they have produced service dog quality dogs before you pay their prices. Some breeders are known for producing great SD’s.

Adopt! Shelters are full of wonderful dogs looking for homes that could fit your personality and lifestyle perfectly. I do caution you when doing this as there are many rescue dogs that come with baggage. If that’s the case you’ll end up spending a long time fixing problem behaviors before you can even consider training tasks or going in public. The low cost of the dog could be made up in behavior modification cost.

The second two options verify that you can owner-train your service dog. By definition it’s a dog that’s individually trained to mitigate your disability after all. So you can choose to do it yourself and train your own tasks. There is a lot of material on the web to help you do so.

Or you could hire me! I’ve trained medical, mobility, and psychiatric service dogs. Shameless plug.

As a general rule, your service dog will be considered a Service Dog in Training for around the first two years. It takes them time to mature or settle in to their new home and lifestyle. Obedience work can take several months, and tasks can take up to two years to become 100% automatic or “bomb proof”.

Which is the perfect time to mention this: If you see a Service Dog team out in public working – do not disturb the dog. Ever.

I know I just mentioned them being bomb proof – but you will never be able to tell which ones those are. And? Let’s face it, they’re dogs and they have personalities too. They’re working and need to be left alone.

There are some handlers who don’t mind talking to people if you have questions. Address the handler in a friendly manner and ask if you may ask about their dog. If they say no? Politely walk away. They are not being rude or mean, they are trying to go about their normal life. They may be having an issue with their health or disability that day. They have a service dog for a reason and not all reasons are visible or obvious to the outside world.

Do not ask to pet the dog. I’m just going to make that a rule you teach yourself and your children. Not all dogs need to be pet. Especially service dogs. The majority of them can get distracted and break concentration and could miss a mark or an alert which could be very dangerous or even life-threatening to their handler.

Teach your children to not address the dog. They may talk to you about the dog. But I would disallow them to make any noises or calls to the dog who is working. Again, this could be life-threatening to their handler! Teach them young, so we have more knowledgeable adults later on.

To have a service dog there are some general ethical guidelines to follow. The dog must be in perfect health and stature. They should not have any disabilities themselves. If they were in human form and needed assistance themselves, do not make them a service dog for you.

For mobility purposes, size definitely matters! Light mobility tasks require the dog be at least 33% of your body weight. Heavy mobility requires your dog be 50% your body weight. Keep that in mind when choosing a young dog.

These dogs begin work as a puppy (or as soon as you get them) can take up to two years to fully train and can work until they’re about 8 or 9 years old. So if you’re getting an adult shelter dog, understand that you may only get a few years of good work out of them before retiring them and beginning a new SD prospect.

Breed can play a role in longevity of their career as well. Some of your much bigger dogs don’t live nearly as long as medium or smaller dogs. So you might retire them at 6 or 7 instead. It is unethical to ask an old dog to work for up to 8 hours a day. They age faster than us and it’s hard on them.

And, yes, you can have more than one SD. Some handlers have disabilities that require the work of two dogs. Their tasks may be trained differently, and this is slightly more rare.

Lastly, any breed of dog can be a service dog. So don’t be too quick to laugh at that Pomeranian with a SD vest on. He may alert to an oncoming anxiety attack. You just never know.

Remember – not all disabilities are visible! And not all service dogs work in vests to label who they are. They are not required to and it gets hot in certain places!

Published by Amy Noble on 8/7/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist in Monterey Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. She has helped clients train Medical Alert, Mobility, and Psychiatric Service Animals, and is an AKC CGC Evaluator.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Training Tips

Jump Pups and What To Do

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Is this a familiar sight? That blur coming right for your face, at full speed? It can happen anytime. Going out for a walk, coming in the front door, even walking back into the room after being in another for 5 minutes. Maybe you don’t get this view often, but all of your guests do?

Jumping is one of the most common problems of all dog families. Especially with younger dog members. They love to jump! But why?

Firstly, let’s look at the structure of the dog’s face. (And what a cute face that is!) Eyes together facing forward, their nose is under/between their eyes, and their mouth is under their nose. Ears are on the sides/top of the head.

Now, what’s the structure of our face? Eyes together facing forward, our nose is under/between our eyes, and our mouth is under our nose. Ears are on the sides/top of the head. Kind of the same huh?

Dogs communicate through body language and a little bit through scent. They observe us a LOT as young puppies to learn how to read us, our facial expressions, and what we smell like throughout the day.

One of the first things that packs do with one another, is run up to members who may have gone off for a bit and sniff their mouths. This is a survival instinct that’s formed at birth. “If you smell like you’ve eaten something, that means I get to eat too!” The young puppy thinks – and it never goes away. Food = Survival.

Other than our faces, we look like upright-walking, naked dogs. Except our furry canine companions treat us as family and see us as their pack – so naturally they want to do the same thing instinct tells them to. Explore that face! They are able to read if you’re ok, came back safe, if you’ve run into any other naked upright walking dogs, and what you’ve consumed all day. They want the interaction and closeness, and the only way to achieve that, is to jump up at you.

When they’re tiny, we tend to accidentally encourage the jumping. Because five pound Fido looks so cute with his ears flopping all over the place, tail going a million miles a second! So we squeal and coo and pick them up and cuddle them and tell them how much we missed them too! So then our domestic dogs learn that jumping up means love and safety and fun!

Some breeds are more likely to jump than others of course! And if your pup shows a lot of interest in jumping, there are so many things to do with them to hone that skill!

But, how do we STOP it? Yes, some dogs love to jump up more for fun than communication, and others have just built a very naughty habit of doing so.

One – walk towards them. In fact, march towards them! While saying “off!” When puppies are little they don’t want to get stepped on (we’ve all done it, don’t feel bad! How else can they learn to steer clear?), so when you march at them you’re making a big point that your body is moving THIS way, and they better watch out! As they bounce out of the way, do tell them how wonderful they are.

Two – If you’ve got your treat bag handy, grab a handful as you’re walking in the front door. Jumpin Jasper darts towards you, just before he can make it – it rains treats on the ground all around him, in between the both of you. Tell him to find them all! And suddenly you’ve distracted your pooch from pouncing!

Three – Teaching a very strong Wait or Sit Stay of course can always help. Giving them something else to think of before they get the satisfaction of making contact with your legs or stomach or privates even!

When they’re little and bouncing around and trying to get your attention, don’t give it until they’ve stopped jumping! Then they’ll see that patience gives them that needed contact & interaction.

Having guests stop by? Putting Lady on a leash will help control the situation, tell your guests to ignore her until she stops hopping around. As soon as she sits and waits, she suddenly appears and gets recognized by the newcomers! (The treat rain can help with guests too!)

So what if you’ve got a very agile jumper? You want to do something with it and get involved in doggy sports?

Several breeds are famous for their jumping skills. Malinois are probably some of the best jumpers I’ve seen, scaling walls and climbing ladders. We have one in the family (pictured above) and I’ve watched him hop 4 foot fences like they’re ankle high. Australian Cattle Dogs, Australian Shepherds, Border Collies, Shelties, Dalmatians, the list goes on. If they’ve got the build and stamina for it, why not channel it?

Some great sports to do with your jumpers: Agility, fly ball, frisbee or disc dog, and dock jumping for the water lovers. Whatever you decide to do – be sure you introduce slowly and always make it fun!

Dog Behavior, Dogs

Toys, Play Dates and Pack Mates

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Dogs love to play, right? And they love their toys! So it’s natural to think that involving toys in a play session is totally normal and okay to do with multiple dogs. And it is, in some situations.

Toys can be a great addition to your doggy socials, but they can also be a source for resource guarding in some dogs. Which can lead to them having words or worse, with another unknowing dog who maybe wants to try to play with them, with that toy.

As a general rule; if I am inviting a friend dog over for the first time to hang out with my social boy who loves to play? I pick up all the toys and put them away. A new play date should be just that, a date between the pups. This keeps the environment as neutral as possible and allows the dogs to figure each other’s personality and play styles out. They focus attention on each other and will have a good time! I will continue to not allow toys between friends until they’ve built a good solid relationship with one another – after several play sessions, then I will slowly introduce toys to their dates. Which I’ll describe down below.

So, what about pack mates? The way that I have pack mates integrate has many steps and toys are a step in their bonding process that comes in time. Let’s say you started off with one dog. You have that pup for about a year or two and they’ve got their set of toys; some are favorites, most are fun, some are “eh”. Now you bring puppy into the mix. Puppy obviously needs TONS of toys and stimulation to keep them happy and nondestructive. But I don’t allow puppy to just come in and take over older dogs toys. That can cause undue stress in your pack and could lead to problems later on. Puppy gets their own area to acclimate / potty train / stay out of trouble / and play with THEIR set of toys. Baby toys. Teething toys that are softer for their baby mouths, etc. In some cases the older dog will bring some of their toys to the puppy – and those are the ones I start with.

Just like a play date, I have my new puppies play with my older dogs without anything around. Just for the first few days. I don’t allow full integration right away, it’s just how I do it, so when the dogs do hang out (and that is most of the day – when I’m there to monitor), they figure each other out and baby begins to learn their place in the family. This also strengthens the bond between dogs because, again, they only have each other to focus on. When I’m not watching and they go back to their puppy pen, everybody gets their own toys back.

This lasts maybe the first week. After that, I begin to add toys to their play. When I do, I bring out twice as many as there are dogs. The toys I bring out are the ones big dog brought to little dog to share through the pen, the bland toys, the “eh” toys. In other words I bring out all the toys that don’t mean much to the big dog. I keep their favorites up until MUCH later in their relationship. Tug toys, ropes, long floppy toys, things that they can both enjoy together and both have enough room to hold onto it at once. This minimized any jealousy or upset misunderstandings between the two. Gradually they get more and more toys to play with together, as they learn to share.

If I ever see someone getting possessive over an item I will take it and claim as mine. This keeps order in the pack, feelings from getting hurt, and prevents grudges from being built. Whoever that toy belonged to originally, I will return it to them when the puppy goes back up.

All of this doesn’t take long. They learn to share pretty quickly given plenty of time to do so. I rotate toys often and bring new ones out to keep things interesting between them. Also when you have multiple dogs, your toys get destroyed that much faster!

So what about a fully integrated pack and new toys? I ALWAYS buy multiple and always give them to the whole pack at the same time. This way they see it as all of theirs not just singularly theirs. When they receive the new toys together – they’re more likely to share them equally. Always remember though, if you’re giving something new, have an equal number of new toys to dogs, or equal +1 is better!

Dogs

Training Tools & Their Proper Use

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There are several items that are used in training dogs: leashes, collars, harnesses, treats, clickers, and depending on what you’re training, toys etc. But right now I’m focusing on collars. Specifically correction collars and harnesses.

The reason behind this being, I have recently seen a number of dogs living in collars that are supposed to be used for training purposes. And the opposite – where a correction collar is needed; then not used because it’s misunderstood.

They all have their purpose and place. Often, in most cases, a correction collar isn’t needed. Just a little patience, training and consistency can correct unwanted behaviors. Always start small, then work your way up!

I’ll break these down into 3 categories – With Pictures! 😀

  • Everyday Wear
  • Correction Collars
  • Harnesses

Everyday Wear:

1.braided-buckle-collar 2. fancy-buckle-collar

3. quick-release-collar4. rolled-leather-collar

#1- Braided Leather Collar: As with all leather products, the more you use it, the softer it becomes. The one shown above has what’s called a “quick release” clip, which makes it easy to take off in a pinch. Also, easy to snap onto your dog too, if you’re the type that likes to let them “go naked” at night.

#2- Flat Buckle Collar: These collars are less likely to snap apart in a pinch, but this style comes in so many different colors and patterns (as do the quick release buckles) so you can have more of a “personality” showing with these.

#3- Flat Quick Release Buckle: Again, just like 2, you can find all kinds of colors or patterns, which makes these fun.

#4- Rolled Leather Collar: I prefer these for my dogs, when we need to leave the house. I have always had really fluffy dogs with double coats, and when you put a flat collar on a double-coated dog, it tends to mat the hair underneath and flatten the coat. With a Rolled Leather collar you completely avoid that. They do come in different colors now, but no patterns. You wouldn’t be able to see it in the Malamute’s coat, anyhow 😉

When it comes to “everyday wear”, you want your dog to feel comfortable. Just like how you enjoy wearing sweats at the end of the day. Your dog likes to have it’s comfy “clothes” on, too. These are collars that you leave on your dog. They are also the ones that you attach their information tags to. So always be sure to have them on your dogs when you aren’t home. As well as every time you go out with your dog.

When fitting your dog with a collar, you want it to be tight enough that it wont slide off, over their ears, should they pull away from your grip on it. But loose enough that you can stick about 2-3 fingers in there between the neck & collar. We don’t want doggy to feel strangled, but you want to be able to keep control with it, should the need arise.

All 4 of these collars above are good “everyday wear” for your pups.

Correction Collars: 

1.martingale-collar-2 2. martingale-collar

3. slip-chain-collar 4. prong-collar

#1- Flat Martingale: This collar is designed to resemble the regular “everyday” flat collar. With a bit of a “correction collar” thrown in. A Hybrid, if you will. This is the only one of these four I would be OK with any of my dogs living in. It’s just like a regular flat collar, has a space for the ID Tags, and is also designed to tighten on the dog when it pulls – if you attach the leash on the top ring.

#2- Martingale Collar: This is the first design of the martingale collar. Where they combined the chain collar with the flat. It works in much the same way as #1 does. It tightens when being pulled on, and has a stopping point so that it doesn’t continue to choke your dog. With both of these collars, they CAN be ineffective if left too big. The idea is that it should tighten enough to be uncomfortable, but not so much that the two “stopping rings” touch. I often see these two collars living on dogs, and they are way to big so that when the dog pulls the rings are touching and there is still space between the dog’s neck & the collar. If you are going to have them that way, just put on a regular flat or buckle collar because it’s pretty much the same thing. The “stopping point” of these two collars should stop at your dog’s neck, and still have some space before the rings are touching each other. That’s the truly effective way of using them.

#3- Choke Chain: That’s the traditional name, but Chain Collar works just fine. Or Slip Chain. The “clip” ring (the piece hanging out at the bottom) is where you clip your leash. the “active” ring is what slides closer or further away from your dogs neck. If you are interested in using one of these collars – I HIGHLY suggest getting a professional to help fit your dog with one. There are specific grades of chain (small, medium, heavy, extra heavy, extra small), as well as different lengths.
If it’s too long, it’ll be ineffective. If it’s too short, it’ll be ineffective, and really uncomfortable and potentially dangerous for your dog. It needs to be a perfect fit for your specific dog. Basically, when you slip this on over their head, and pull it all the way out (meaning the active ring is sitting against your dog’s neck) you want to have about 6 inches of chain out. Because the idea of this collar is that the dog listens to the ring sliding on the chain, when you tighten it. Thus teaching your dog to listen to the ring sliding, later on, rather than “getting choked”. Proper technique, and placement on the dog, is everything with this collar, and I DO NOT recommend using one unless you know what you are doing, or you have a professional trainer show you how to use it. This collar is misused about 95% of the time. From the way it’s put on, to it’s size and thickness of the chain. All-in-all, if you feel like your dog needs to ‘graduate’ to this type of collar, PLEASE get some training help before you put one on!

#4- Prong Collar: Ah! It’s a Torture Device! “Doesn’t that hurt the dog?!” Well, yes, it CAN – if you are using it wrong. Again, this is another collar I suggest you ONLY use, if you are being directed by a professional trainer. This is a HIGHLY effective collar for BIG dogs who like to pull. Bully Breeds, Northern Breeds, etc. The ONLY people who should be using this collar, are the ones who have dogs that pull. Big dogs can easily knock their people down when going for a walk if they pull hard enough and catch you off guard. If there is any sort of physical limitation such as a person who doesn’t have much strength, anyone healing from some kind of surgery that affects your walking/stability/balance/strength, younger adults/teens with big dogs, etc. I highly recommend using this collar.
It is what I always refer to as “Power Steering”.

It is designed to resemble Momma dog’s mouth. When the dog pulls, the “teeth” of the collar tighten around the dog’s neck. When doggy feels that sensation they are automatically reminded of when their mom would correct them for something they did wrong, in the whelping box, and will correct whatever behavior is happening right then.

When used the right way, it can be a VERY effective tool at keeping your dog under control. I NEVER yank on the leash hard to “pop” them with it. It takes just a very small correction using your hand and a slight wrist motion, to get the point across. If this collar is too big, it’ll be ineffective. If this collar is too small – it can cause serious damage to your dog’s neck. Again, if you think you might need this collar to help you on your walks – PLEASE consult a professional to show you how to use it the right way.

NOTE: NEVER leave this on your dog 24/7. For one, they shouldn’t be living in metal, anyway, but for all the reasons stated above – it can be dangerous or become completely ineffective.

Correction collars are named for that purpose. Correcting unwanted behaviors. These four collars are used for training only. They are not to be used as everyday living situation collars. (Number 1 being the only exception to the rule).

In my profession, I have seen so many dogs live in collars 3 & 4. This is a pet peeve of mine, and can be potentially very dangerous. There are all kinds of things that can go wrong with them. They can get caught on something, and because of their design, can choke or severely injure your dog. All four of these collars are designed to tighten when they are pulled at the ring. If your dog gets stuck on something and you aren’t around, it can panic and hurt itself pretty bad with any one of these. It’s just not safe for them.

But, the other reason is this. Dogs also become immune to them. They are for training purposes only. But if they are left on 24/7 your dog will learn to ignore it, and it won’t mean anything to them, anymore. Rendering your training tool completely useless. A dog living in a choke or a prong collar is used to the feel of it around their neck, and when they are wearing it while just hanging out on the couch, or rummaging through the backyard they are having all kinds of other experiences with them, that isn’t “correcting” any type of behavior. So, then a dog that pulls, will continue to pull because it feels the same sensation all day long, doing a million other things on it’s own. Use them for walks & training. Take them off when you are lounging or crating. And NEVER leave them on when playing with other dogs!

Harnesses

1.traditional-harness2.  pull-harness

3. front-clip-harness 4. small-dog-harness

#1- Traditional Harness: This is your basic harness. They go over the head and through the paw and the leash clips on the back. This is a good one to use for riding in the car – clip the seat belt through the hand loop of a tab leash, then clip the leash to the back of the harness. This type of harness will encourage a dog to pull. It feels good because it lies across their muscles, and the more they lean into it, the more they want to. Not the greatest for training a dog to walk nicely next to you.

#2- Pulling Harness: This is usually used on Malamutes and Huskies for pulling competitions or sleds/carts. There are several points on it to distribute the weight evenly throughout the dog, while supporting it at the same time. Again, it feels good on them to pull in it, that’s what it’s designed for – Not training a dog to walk nicely next to you. 😉

#3- Front Clip Harness: This is a nice harness that clips in the front. It is designed with the “gentle leader” in mind, where, when the dog pulls ahead – it encourages them to turn toward you and slow down. It doesn’t necessarily work that exact way, but I do like walking the bigger dogs in this harness, I have more control over them. However, if you have a very rowdy dog that’s persistent enough – they CAN pull out of this. I’ve had it happen. So, depending on your situation, this can be a good harness to use (easy-going, trainable dog, not too into pulling or lunging), or maybe you should consider a collar. 😉 Out of all 4 of these harnesses, for large breed dogs – this is the one I prefer!

#4- Soft Shirt Harness: I believe they only make this harness for small to medium dogs. And that’s just fine – that’s the only dog I would suggest putting in these. It’s comfortable on them, there are no points where the harness straps can dig into the doggy’s arms or sides. It clips in the back which is convenient for the smaller dogs. I prefer walking any small dog in this – or harness #1 – instead of collars. Small breed dogs aren’t strong enough to pull you into the street, but you are strong enough to accidentally hurt them, n the wrong type of collar. So, as a universal rule, for me, I like putting all small dogs in this type of harness for walking or training.

And – Just like correction collars – always remove the harness when you get home! Dogs shouldn’t live in a harness, either. It’s uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time, and can cause skin and hair loss issues.

What’s a Tab Leash?

You probably thought I’d forget – nope! I mentioned it, so here it is.

tab-leash

These are Tab Leashes. It’s a very short leash with just a handle on it. These are some of my favorite leashes, personally, because I always have REALLY big dogs (Shown Below is an example of me with my King Shepherd Tobi). I also like using these for seat belts. However – when I am training dogs, I always recommend a 6ft. leather leash for all my clients. Leather – the more you use it, the softer it gets. When in training you will always need more length. But I do recommend these paired with a harness, for seat belts in the car!

me-tobi

That’s usually why I don’t need long leashes 😉
Me & Good Ole Tobi
(10/2000 – 05/2011)