Tag Archives: Pet Safety

Dog Training, Dogs, Equipment, Training Tips

MONTEREY, CA: NOT ALL LEASHES ARE CREATED EQUAL

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You would think that a leash is just a leash. They aren’t – there are different types and different times and reasons for them. I will cover the ones I’ve had experience with and why I would recommend them or not. I do have my favorites, yet also continue to try new products all the time, to find the perfect tool(s) for each situation.

RETRACTABLE LEASHES:

Let’s just start with these guys and get them out of the way, and these are probably the one leash I write the most about. This is one of the most popular leashes on the market. They seem like a really good idea – give your dog 2 feet, or 25! To run and sniff and play on their daily walkies, right? No. These are a bad idea.

They are not safe for you or your dog. 

First, if your dog is at full extension, or anything over 3 feet really, you have lost control of your dog and any situation that may arise. Consider this: You’ve just gotten off work, it’s been a long week. You take Mitzi out for her walkies to the park down the street, something you’ve done every day since you adopted her two years ago. Tonight you’re checking your phone while Mitzi is 15 feet away from you sniffing a bush. Suddenly, without any warning, a stray dog who is highly dog aggressive comes out from the other side of that bush, and he triggers onto your Mitzi. 15 Feet is going to take you MUCH longer to get to your dog, by either retracting or running, than that aggressive dog just two feet away. 

Dogs also startle at times; retractable leashes give your dog the too-easy opportunity to bolt out into the street, not paying attention to where they’re going. Or run into a yard, or across a driveway too far away from you. There are many situations that can, and do, happen. 

On the human side of things…

Most of these leashes are a blend of a long wire and a short bit of actual nylon leash. There are the types that are fully nylon, but that does not improve them much. If you have a dog that is fully extended who gets excited, scared, playful, chased, whatever it might be? Locked or not, it becomes a weapon against you. I have seen people get wrapped up in these and cut bad. I’ve seen people get tied up in them and fall over because the dog took off around them in a circle. I’ve seen the leash snap off at the dog and the recoil whips people in the face, arms or body. I’ve seen people drop the handle and the heavy plastic casing hits their dog. I have seen a lot happen with handlers and these leashes that I just say, do yourself and your dog a favor and just don’t use them. 

NYLON LEASHES

I like these, they are pretty durable, generally pretty cheap depending on the type that you get (leather handle / double handle) and they come in many varieties of color and patterns. The most important thing about these leashes is that you don’t leave them accessible for your dogs to chew up. I recommend a 4-6ft length medium or heavy grade for comfort and control.

LEATHER LEASHES

I love using leather leashes. These are my favorite type of leash to use. I have one that I’ve been using since 2000. My favorite part about these is they give you a very comfortable grip on your dog. The best thing about them? The more you use them, the softer they become. Still giving you a good grip after 15+ years. I highly recommend using these 6 ft is a good length for training and walking. 

TAB LEASHES

These leashes are fabulous for close-contact training as well as preparation for off-leash training. They are about 1-2 ft long with the handle taking up ½-¾ of the length. This keeps your dog in very close control to you. It doesn’t give them a lot of room to run around or get ahead or behind you. I have used these my entire dog career. I highly recommend getting one of these. The material isn’t AS important as your regular training lead; however, I do like leather or at least a leather-cushioned handle. Be sure the clip is very strong and durable. 

DOUBLE LEAD

These come as an extension that you put on your regular leash, where it has a central ring and two clips on the ends of two short (1 ft) leashes. These are used for people with multiple dogs who want to walk them at the same time together. I am okay with these being used as long as your two dogs do not have the potential to “take out” any sort of reaction on each other, in case anything were to occur on your walk. Sometimes dogs can get over stimulated if they are leash-reactive, and if they have a dog near them they will react at the nearest warm body because they can’t get to the offender. If you have dogs that do not react to dogs, or will not reciprocate if a dog reacts at them, then yes – these are a wonderful tool to have for multiple dog families! 

Another type is a single 7 ft lead that has three rings and two clips on it. This is the lead that I use most often and prefer it in leather. Currently I have a heavy cotton type and though it’s comfortable – I prefer my leather. This leash can be used for two dogs to keep them at 7 ft length apart, or you can clip several small extensions on it, you can wrap it around your waist and clip it to you as a hands-free leash, you can give it a handle and use it as a regular leash. There are so many things you can do with this one leash which is why I am a big fan of this one! I definitely recommend having one in your dog supply closet.

LONG LINE

Long lines are used as training tools. They are 20-50 ft and made of nylon or a thick cotton-type material. All of them come with handle for you and a clip at the other end for the dog – just like a very giant, well, leash. Long lines would not be good for going on your average walks; however, if you’re training your dog in the field they are great. I use these for working on recall as well as working on distance stays. Yes I use them out in the world at parks or in the front yard. Again it is used for training purposes only and that means that I and my dog are both 100% focused on one another and I am staying in control of the situation. Very different from your 25 ft retractable leash. 

CHAIN LEASH

Chain leashes come in second to retractable leashes for me. Only in extremely rare cases would I ever recommend one of these. They are uncomfortable on your hands, they restrict you to only holding onto the handle which is usually about 8” long, giving your dog 4 ft+ of freedom to do whatever. In the rare cases that I have recommended this type of leash, I have also required the handler buy a comfortable set of leather gloves in order to handle the leash. I don’t recommend this one for any reasons beyond habitual leash-biters / destroyers in which the handlers cannot get them to stop chewing on the leash when they use it – Only after we have exhausted every other option out there including training. (VERY rare! Did I emphasize this enough?)

LEAD ROPE

I like lead ropes because I use them with horses. That being said, they do not have a handle attached to them, so they are not as recommended with dogs who might have a habit of bolting or spooking. When I use a lead rope on a dog, it’s because I probably don’t have any other option, usually only used on a dog who is VERY well-behaved with leash manners. They are soft, round, and come in many patterns. OK to get if you want something different or more durable for your dog and comfortable on your hands. 

CABLE

Cables are industrial strength wires encased in a hard plastic, with clips on either end. These are for temporary or training purposes. The only times I use cables are the times that I need to tie a dog out for a short period of time where I might need both hands, and/or I don’t want any potential leash-chewing or destroying happening. If I know I have a dog who would chew his way off of the lead in an uncontained area, that’s when I’ll grab a cable to tie them out with. These can be potentially dangerous so I do not recommend ever leaving your dog tied up for any amount of time alone, regardless of what they are on. I would bring a cable out camping if I had a dog who was a wanderer. In most other cases, I would probably rather use a crate for containment.

WATERPROOF LEASH

These are best used for when you head to the beach, lake, or river. They don’t absorb the mud and dirt from where you’re visiting, and they can easily be rinsed off, keeping their often bright colors. Best used with waterproof collars too! These are great for bath time if you have a doggo who is not much of a fan – easy to hang onto them, and the water won’t ruin the collar / leash. Very convenient.  

LEASH LAW

California does have a leash law stating that your dog must be on a leash at all times in any public place. Off-leash is a concept and goal that many people would like to get their dogs to. Which I understand and highly recommend! But I do not recommend it so that you can go everywhere with your dog off-leash. I recommend Off-Leash training for purposes of having your dog listen if it were to ever get off of the leash accidentally. 

There are places that are designated off-leash dog parks and beaches. Dogs are, of course, allowed to be off of the leash, as long as they are social, well-behaved, can listen to direction well, and come when you call them. This is where off-leash training comes in very handy. There are no exemptions from the leash law. 

In cases of Service Dogs, Police Dogs, Search and Rescue dogs the law says that they need to be under complete handler control and usually these dogs are still wearing a lead that is short enough to not interfere with the dog’s job or task.

Published by Amy Noble on 8/21/19


Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Service Animals, Training Tips

Carmel, Ca: Thinking of Registering a Service Animal? Here’s What You Should Know…

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…You can’t!

There is no such thing as a legitimate Online Doctors note, Registry or Certification for a pet to be a Service Animal.

Taken from the ADA’s website: “There are individuals and organizations that sell service animal certification or registration documents online. These documents do not convey any rights under the ADA and the Department of Justice does not recognize them as proof that the dog is a service animal.”

There are major differences between the three types of Service Animals: Emotional Support, Therapy and Service Animal.

The ADA defines a Service Animal as any dog, or other animal individually trained to provide assistance to an individual with a disability. Otherwise meaning, the only ones lawfully covered by the DoJ are Task-trained Service Animals.

Emotional Support Animals (ESAs) are NOT the same as Task-Trained Service Animals. They are not covered by the ADA or Department of Justice, they do NOT have public access rights to “go anywhere you want”. They are not a license to have dogs where you otherwise couldn’t, and it is illegal and unethical to claim an Emotional Support/Service Animal to get around breed restrictions in apartments. Additionally, faking a Service Dog team can land you up to a $5,000 fine in California.

Including fines and other legal issues that those will run into when bringing their pet dogs to Wal-Mart or the grocery store? They are putting real, legit Service Dog teams in danger simply by just being there. These teams are highly trained and have spent countless hours and money on becoming what they are, and getting to the point of working together in public. More than likely, the pet dog has not had nearly the same amount, nor type, of training and can distract, react to, or attack a legit Service Dog Team. 

Not all disabilities are visible. Sometimes a handler may need their dog to alert them to an impending seizure, a drop in blood pressure, an oncoming anxiety attack, someone or something approaching proximity boundaries. It could be anything, and it is nobody’s business what disabilities the handlers have except their own and their Service Animal’s. The point is, if the animal misses his target because he’s distracted by Pet Dog, Fido, barking at him? His handler could get very seriously injured or worse.

Remember, you don’t need to be the Fake Service Dog Police. If you suspect a pet dog is pretending to be a Service Dog, seek out the store’s manager and alert them to your suspicions. It is up to them to ask the two individual questions that grant public access.

Emotional Support Animals DO have their place, and play a very important role in providing comfort and support in their human’s lives. ESA’s are not required to have any specific training because they don’t perform any tasks. ESA’s can also be other animals such as cats, rabbits, or parrots, though those animals may not be allowed to travel on airlines.

If you feel you could benefit from an Emotional Support Animal; you are still required to get your personal doctor or therapist to sign a letter stating your need for the ESA, in order for you to receive Reasonable Accommodations for housing or travel. Your ESA letter does not grant you public access into non-pet friendly stores. They are seen as pets and can be a distraction to Service Dog Teams. 

Emotional Support Animals can, however, accompany you to pet-friendly places such as pet stores, some hardware stores, some banks, and some outdoor cafes. If you’re fortunate enough to live in places like the Bay Area – You’ve got Stanford Shopping Center and Santana Row. Monterey County is quite dog-friendly, especially Carmel-by-the-Sea. All of these places are very dog-friendly and encouraged! Most stores will even have water bowls and treats hidden in the back for all the good boys & girls.

Therapy Dogs and Mini horses have a special place as well. These are the animals that visit hospitals, homes and schools to provide comfort and love to their residents. They are there for petting, resting, talking and reading to. These animals DO have a certification process that they generally go through to become a volunteer team. Most hospitals & homes will not allow individual Therapy Dog teams to visit their premises unless they belong with a specific Therapy Dog organization. Many of these Therapy Dog Organizations will require the dogs go through CGC Certification before, and to remain current on for the duration of their service.

Therapy Dogs and Mini horses do NOT have public access rights. They are only permitted in their designated places of service, and pet-friendly businesses.

Dogs and Mini Horses are the two most used animals as Service Animals. They have many different jobs that range from Guide Dogs, to Medical Alert, Mobility, and Psychiatric Service Dogs. These are considered Task-Trained Service Animals.

Psychiatric Service Dogs are very different from Emotional Support Animals. PSD’s are individually trained in tasks to help mitigate their handlers disabilities. They may perform Deep Pressure Therapy (DPT) for anxiety attacks, alert to an oncoming panic attack from PTSD, perform Grounding, remind handler for medications, break dissociative episodes, wake from nightmares, etc. The amazing list of things goes on and the tasks are all individual to each handler team. These teams spend all day together. Some handlers need their Service Animals on an hour-by-hour, a day-by-day or a week-by-week basis. These animals are truly their daily side-kicks and Superheroes all rolled into one. 

Banner The Super Dog

Superheroes indeed, I wanted to share some Service Animals that I follow on social media. This girl’s name says it all: “Banner, The Super Dog”. What I love most about her is that she’s a Husky that has been very well trained by her handler. She gets to be a husky, and also takes her job very seriously. And who doesn’t enjoy a cosplaying dog?

Miniature Horses can also perform similar Service jobs; Vision Guide, Medical Alert, and they are a great option for handlers who may need more mobility support than a dog can give.

Flirty The Miniature Service Horse

One such Miniature horse I follow on Social Media is Flirty. She’s sassy and adorable and I really enjoy how open and honest her mama is. Her handler does more than her share of spreading education and information about Service Animals. She gives her readers a glimpse into the life of someone with invisible disabilities, dealing with the public, and the training and daily care of her service animal all while dealing with “real life” stuff. Flirty is her life line and it’s often shared, moments she has needed Flirty to jump into action to do her job. They are a great team, and you can see the love between them. 

This is only part of the information I wanted to share. I created a whole second blog to cover the rest. Read Paw’rt Two Here!

Published by Amy Noble on 7/31/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist in Monterey Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. She has helped clients train Medical Alert, Mobility, and Psychiatric Service Animals, and is an AKC CGC Evaluator.

Birds, Cats, Dogs, Rabbits, summer

San Jose, Ca: Surviving the Summer Heatwaves

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There is a heat wave expected to hit the Bay Area this weekend, so I thought I’d post about how to prepare, what to do, and how to survive the heat with your fur babies.

First and foremost; Unless you are taking a trip to the vet, or similar destination from point A to point B where your animal is expected at point B as well? If it is hotter than 83° outside, don’t bring your pets in the car. Anywhere. If it’s a trip to the drive-thru and your AC is working beautifully? By all means – we can come up with exceptions to the rule all day long. The point is, animals don’t belong in hot cars on warm days during the summer. And if it’s going to be that warm, it’s likely that the asphalt of every parking lot and every sidewalk to your destination is going to be pretty dang warm also.

Check the ground! I like to err on the side of caution and leave any outside trips for earlier in the day, or later in the evening. Asphalt soaks in the heat from the direct sun, then it radiates back up and one thing that many people don’t consider is the fact that their dogs are only 1-2 ft (give or take) off the ground, right where all that heat is hanging out.

My rule to everybody is that if you cannot place your hand on the asphalt for more than 5 seconds it’s too hot to take your pup, who’s wearing a fur coat and walking on bare feet, out. If you can’t tell by placing your palm down, place the back of your hand, if you still cannot tell, take off your shoes and stand on the sidewalk that’s been in the direct sun for more than an hour – that will give you a really good idea of the temperature. Save walks for the evening / early morning.

Or, forget walks altogether! There’s nothing that will happen to your dog if you give them a few days off because it’s continually 85°+ outside. Heat stroke is real and can still affect them, even if you walk them early in the day. Consecutive hot days mean being lazy inside, eating frozen treats!

Utilize your Kong toys and your freezer. Prepare a few Pupsicles filled with Peanut butter and greek yogurt, or chicken broth and diced carrots. Plug the little hole at the top, fill them up and toss in the freezer for a cool treat your pup can enjoy during the warm afternoons. Freeze some water bottles full of water so they can play with those to keep busy or spend some energy.

Be sure your water bowls are refilled and cleaned out. I never leave water buckets or bowls in direct sun very long. Some sunlight is good for sterilizing, but hot water is not fun nor safe to drink. Remember our dogs’ temperatures run higher than ours. Bring the water into the shade, or leave it under an umbrella and always check it before you let your pooches out to drink from it. Personally, we have water bowls inside and in crates. There is one outside but it gets dumped and refilled probably 6-10 times daily.

Do you have a hoppity bunny in your life? The hot months are the WORST time for a bunny rabbit. In nature they dig deep holes in the ground and hunker down where the sunlight never penetrates and it stays nice and cool. They absolutely do not do well in temperatures over 80°. If you have a rabbit that lives outside, bring it in. Freeze a water bottle for them to lie on, put them where there is air flow and fans. If you are unable to bring them in from the heat, turning a mister on in the yard and giving them frozen water bottles will save their lives. I have many tragic stories of hard lessons learned that I don’t wish for anyone to repeat. Bring the bunnies in! Luckily for us, Monterey county doesn’t get nearly as hot as the Bay Area, our Rini girl happily lives in her own room where it never reaches over 70 degrees.

Birds and Cats are probably the easiest to care for. Birds have insulating feathers that keep them warm when it’s cold and cool when it’s hot. They may be less active and a bit more quiet (not in our house). But if it’s really warm for extended periods of time. Giving them baths makes them feel good. Keeping them in a well-ventilated room is best also.

Cats will find a cool hiding spot and wait out the heat. Some of them will lay right in the sunbeams blazing through your window. Cats do what they want. Just make sure they have water and they’re fine. If you have an outside cat, be sure you provide lots of shade and a way to get out of the heat. Many kitties run up trees, thinking they’re heading towards some shade only to be stuck up in the direct sun and hot air, stressing themselves into faster dehydrating. Best to bring them in as well.

All in all, head inside, turn on the AC (or fans), get the Netflix or Amazon Prime going and grab some snacks for you and the fur kids – wait out the hottest part of the day and enjoy yourselves when it’s cooler out.

Looking for activities to do? Check out my Summertime Outings post!

Published by Amy Noble on 7/24/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Cats, Dog Behavior, Dogs, Holidays, summer

Happy Fourth of July! Fireworks and your fur babies.

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Fourth of July can mean family time, BBQ’s, swimming pools, and beaches. The beautiful display of fireworks celebrating our independence, closing the evening out with spectacular shapes and colors displayed all over the night sky. The perfect midsummer celebration to create magical memories that last a lifetime.

But for some, it can mean stress, anxiety, fear, loud noises, over-stimulation, confusion and the sense of being under attack from above.

So what should you do if your pet is fearful? Plan ahead! If you know your pets don’t or won’t like the fireworks, there are plenty of preventative measures you can take.

Most importantly, if you have an outside cat who likes to cruise in and out during the day and evening. Bring them in. Set up a room or bathroom with their food, litter box, a cat tree or a bed to hide in / under. Put them in the room with some new toys, catnip, and some yummies – and close the door. Keeping them contained in a room is much safer for them than trying to brave the outdoors when confusion hits. I recently mentioned to someone: “I’d much rather have a cat who is pissed off at me for locking them up, than to have to bury my cat because they tried to find cover in a panic and got hit by a car.” Hurting your pets pride or ego is 100% curable. Keep that in mind.

Setting up a quiet, comfortable space for kitty to spend the evening is going to be your best bet for keeping them happy and safe!! Don’t take any chances. Keep them in.

I have heard many, many horror stories about dogs getting out of the yard, jumping fences, chewing through fences, breaking through glass windows, all for getting away from fireworks.

My advice for them would be quite similar as for cats. Bring them in where it’s safe. If they are kennel dogs, setting the kennel up in a bedroom with the radio or TV playing for some noise, some chew bones or filled frozen Kong’s to keep them busy – and something to take their stress out on. Close windows and doors to help dampen the sound, maybe turn on a fan to keep the air flowing. All of these things will help to set a calm environment.

If your dog is exceptionally anxious or nervous, I would suggest NOT leaving them alone. Keep them with you, hang out at home, or board them with a friend they are comfortable with where you know they’ll be contained, safe, and with others. In most of the Animal world there is safety in numbers! Being with the pack and watching them handle the noise helps a nervous dog tremendously!

Being in a pack of dogs that are all friends and being able to play can help many dogs make it through the fourth also! Years ago I would have puppy parties at my house. We would take all the nervous dogs and have them in mid-play before the fireworks in our neighborhood began. That way they were otherwise distracted during the event and then too busy to even care.

What helps the most is being a calm, confident, leader towards them. Dogs are looking for leaders to follow and if the leader isn’t worried, they drop their worries too. Never coddle or fawn over your dog when they are in a nervous state. Instead, confidently tell them that they are ok, and divert their attention to something else. If they aren’t interested in anything else and would much rather cuddle and lay with you – then do that without any emotional sing-songy communication.

Remember: Calm, confident, leadership.

Cats, Dogs, Holidays

Happy Howl-o-Ween!!

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image1This is my most favorite Holiday!! Maybe it was the staying out late as a kid, the AWESOME decorations, the bountiful haul of candy, or SCARING PEOPLE that makes it my favorite. But, it’s just the best! Although, it’s not about the candy for me anymore – I still remember how awesome it was when I was younger though. 😉

This holiday can be a nightmare for some animals, funadie-decorations for others, and then the few unaffected who don’t pay much mind to it. Adie, like my husky Prince, is definitely the latter. Prince only thought it was pretty cool when my sister and I would stay in the garage for hours on end, setting up our haunted house, as he cruised around and “helped”. But that was as involved as he ever got. Adie likes to play with the Halloween decorations and lay in the piles of plastic bags that are our “walls” for our haunted house. But she’ll just sleep through tonight, comfy on her bed.

My Shepherd Tobi, though, it almost drove him a bit crazy having so many people come to the door over and over and over randomly, all night long. And, if I had handled the situation any differently, he could very well have been a big ball of stress and nerves that night. Considering his breed, and the fact that he worked alongside me ALL the time. And this was one night a year I was out front, with a lot of people coming over, and he couldn’t “protect me”. 🙂 Even though he would get excited and bark once in a while, he was never stressed or upset. More on the jealous side, if anything.

I have a neighbor whose dog does NOT enjoy Halloween. At. All. He will begin barking tonight around 5pm. And will continue all night in three-to-five-bark increments, until about 10:30pm. I’m not sure what they do with him, but it’s clear he goes outside, and that seems to be it. It’s been this way for years. (Yes, I have offered more than once to help them out).

Nervous or Stressed Doggies:

taco-dogNumber one thing – don’t coddle them when they begin their nervous behaviors. Holding them, hugging them, telling them sweetly that “it’s ok”… That may be very comforting to a human child? It does the opposite to your dog. It actually encourages them to continue the nervousness and it can get worse from there.

You want to keep your nervous pet busy. Give them something to do, so that way they can channel that nervous energy into something constructive instead of barking or pacing or any other sort of “off” behavior they may do. My favorite suggestion is always having something for them to chew or gnaw on, throughout the night. Natural Peanut Butter in a Kong toy, thrown in the freezer. Treat Puzzle toys where the dog needs to figure out how to get the treats out. A new bone to chew on. I like giving natural bones from the butcher, I ask for a shank bone and will give that to the dogs around the time your first trick-or-treater comes by.

snuggled-in-bedProviding a safe place for them to be. A bedroom, bathroom, their crate or a back room away from the front door and all the activity. Have their bed, blankets, or maybe a shirt of yours for them to cuddle up with. Close the door, turn on the radio on low, and give them their chewy to focus on. Going in and checking on them when things are quiet and calm, to tell them how good they’re being will help them a lot. This way they feel protected, and away from all the action going on. They can control the situation they are in – which brings them comfort when they’re in a state of nervousness.

On the contrary, sometimes that can cause a dog to be more upset because they’re not with you. If you are worried about your dog fear-bolting, but you think it has a better time being with you as you open the door to trick-or-treaters, I suggest having them on a tie-down nearby. Whether it be on leash with another family member holding them for safety, or on the railing of a staircase. This way they can see what’s going on but you don’t run the risk of them running out the door if they get scared by a costume. I would still provide them with their favorite toys or a new bone or something to chew on or play with, to keep them busy.

Ultimately, the idea is keeping their minds busy on something POSITIVE while the scary thing is happening. Acting like the boss, not coddling or comforting them. Instead, you will be their leader and tell them, confidently, that you got this and they’re just fine.

My recommendation for those of you with cats that are indoor/outdoor kitties. I suggest you leave them inside today. And keep them in until tomorrow. I posted last week about Kitty Superstitions, and even though the stories aren’t true. People can still be mean to cats on Halloween. Especially if they’re Black Cats! It’s unfortunate, but better to keep your kitty safe!

kane-comfyFor indoor-only kitties, I would also close them up in a room. That way there’s no chance of them accidentally slipping out, or running out/bolting because of fear. Again, you may have a very confident kitty who can take care of him/herself, but it’s better to be safe than to chance it. You Just never know.

Costumes: 

image1Costumes are fun for some, not so much for others. You know your pet best and if you think they’ll dig a costume – by all means, do it! I have never actually put my dogs in full on costumes. But, costumes didn’t start becoming popular until just a few years ago, so that’s just by default, I guess. I did, however, always put my dogs in seasonal-themed bandannas. Tobi loved them the most. He had one on almost all year-round. Prince would tear his off. Adie likes them for a little while, but gets tired of them.

king-harleyIntroduce your dog to them slowly. Let them sniff the items first. Place them on the dog gently. Just lay it on them, at first, and praise them for allowing you to do that. Be sure that the costume size is just right for them. Nothing too small, because you don’t want them to feel constricted. Just make sure it’s a positive interaction, and you try it out a few times before the actual night (I know, it’s kind of late for that – but now you know for next year!).

stooges-halloweenSome pets love them, and wear costumes happily and proudly! And then they can go trick-or-treating as well! It’s just like going on a walk, only in costume – with lots of stops. But it’s a good idea to expose them to you wearing costumes, before Halloween night, as well. By having them watch you put them on and take them off, it teaches the dog that sometimes we can change our “skins”. And they will be less likely to be fearful of other peoples’ costumes.

Candy:

Obviously, this is one thing you really want to watch out for. Dogs shouldn’t have candy of any kind. Sugar is just not good for them. But especially chocolate. Every pet owner should know not to give ANY of your animals chocolate. Ever. It’s not that chocolate, itself, is necessarily dangerous. It’s the concentrated caffeine that comes from the cocoa bean that can cause issues with dogs. Their heartbeat increases and they can’t calm themselves down. It can cause issues in their digestive system as well. Ideally, you want to induce vomiting in case they get a hold of any. But, consider the circumstances first. If my 120lb malamute gets an M&M or 2, she’s most likely going to be fine. But if she ate an entire bag of chocolates, like my sisters dog once did? That would cause a problem. I would encourage vomiting right away. Give her water and watch her. If I were to see any signs of distress, I would bring her in to the vet. But, normally, treatments include fluids and vomiting. Unless the case is pretty bad. So, if your little 5lb chihuahua gets into a snickers bar, that would raise a concern – and I’d most likely take them in to be seen, as a precaution.

It’s best to just keep the candy up high, where they can’t get into it. And also keep a bottle of Syrup of Ipecac in your animal first-aid kid. For those “just in case” times.

bella-ladybugBe safe out there tonight, if you’re going out with your kids. Enjoy yourself! Have fun, and make it fun for your doggies, too!

One last thing! If you’re taking your dogs out with you, at night? Take a look at getting a leash with reflectors on it, or buying reflective material to highlight your dog – just like giving your kids glow sticks. 😉