You waited for school to be out this past June so you could pick up your newest family member from the breeder or rescue. It was planned perfectly! The family would spend the whole summer playing with the new puppy. Feeding, watering, potty training, teaching tricks, and getting to know your puppy was what filled this summer’s long days. Memories were made and thousands of pictures taken.
Now it’s September, and school is back in session. The kids are up earlier each day, cranky, rushing out the door, and gone for hours. Afternoon hits and everyone returns home. Snacks handed out, clothes changed and homework begins. We all know that can take a while. Then dinner, some down-time, and bed. All to do it over again, 4 more days of the week. Throw in sports plus after-school activities, there isn’t a whole lot of time left in the day.
Your life changes drastically overnight, in the eyes of your puppy. There is no explaining to them, the immediate change in the amount of attention they will get during the day; however, there are ways that you can prepare them, and make it more comfortable for them when the time does come.
-Take Breaks: The most important thing to remember is to not spend 24/7 with your puppy. DO leave the house at times. Take everyone with you, so that the puppy can learn to be alone and have it be okay. Start small, build onto that time.
-Keep Puppy Occupied: Giving the puppy something to do like chew on a Filled Kong Toy or a bone will keep their minds occupied on something yummy and good, instead of your absence.
-Leave Radio On: Get the puppy used to having something like the radio playing, or a tv on low. If you do, be sure to leave it on something upbeat and positive. Dogs do respond to the energy of the tone of what they’re listening to. I tend to leave the TV on animal shows.
-Puzzle Toys: Give your puppy something stimulating to do and think about. Buy or make DIY Puzzle toys for your dog to sniff at, play with, and receive rewards from. Keeping their brains busy on something constructive and good, instead of your absence.
When school starts, and you’re the only one home with the puppy – play with them! They’re going to love the one-on-one time. Plus, they will benefit from learning to play with different family members and their styles of play; teaching them social flexibility. Playing stimulates their brain and causes them to be tired. Depending on the age of your puppy, sometimes just a 30 minute session can result in a 2-3 hour nap.
Training! I’m always going to suggest this one. Spend some time teaching tricks or basic obedience before school, when the kids are at school, and while they’re busy doing homework. It’s a perfect time to teach Leave-It, Attention getters, and Stays!
Puppy play dates are always fun too! If you have friends that also have young dogs, and everybody is up to date on vaccinations – meet in your backyard or your friend’s backyard and have a play session. Guaranteed to cause a massive nap attack for the rest of the day.
Something to remember? School-age children should not be held completely responsible for the new dog. You got it to help teach responsibility – which is a great idea! It definitely does. Responsibility is not something that just manifests out of thin air, it falls on you as the parent (or guardian) to guide and show them what to do and how to manage their time. When the children are busy with their primary responsibility, school, the adults in the house need to take over the roll of playmate and leader with the puppy.
The whole family should be involved with Puppy’s raising and training. Everybody has a part in the family – including our dogs. If everybody does their piece the puppy will learn exactly where they fit in. Resulting in a much more harmonious household.
Published by Amy Noble on 9/4/19
Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication
You would think that a leash is just a leash. They aren’t – there are different types and different times and reasons for them. I will cover the ones I’ve had experience with and why I would recommend them or not. I do have my favorites, yet also continue to try new products all the time, to find the perfect tool(s) for each situation.
RETRACTABLE LEASHES:
Let’s just start with these guys and get them out of the way, and these are probably the one leash I write the most about. This is one of the most popular leashes on the market. They seem like a really good idea – give your dog 2 feet, or 25! To run and sniff and play on their daily walkies, right? No. These are a bad idea.
They are not safe for you or your dog.
First, if your dog is at full extension, or anything over 3 feet really, you have lost control of your dog and any situation that may arise. Consider this: You’ve just gotten off work, it’s been a long week. You take Mitzi out for her walkies to the park down the street, something you’ve done every day since you adopted her two years ago. Tonight you’re checking your phone while Mitzi is 15 feet away from you sniffing a bush. Suddenly, without any warning, a stray dog who is highly dog aggressive comes out from the other side of that bush, and he triggers onto your Mitzi. 15 Feet is going to take you MUCH longer to get to your dog, by either retracting or running, than that aggressive dog just two feet away.
Dogs also startle at times; retractable leashes give your dog the too-easy opportunity to bolt out into the street, not paying attention to where they’re going. Or run into a yard, or across a driveway too far away from you. There are many situations that can, and do, happen.
On the human side of things…
Most of these leashes are a blend of a long wire and a short bit of actual nylon leash. There are the types that are fully nylon, but that does not improve them much. If you have a dog that is fully extended who gets excited, scared, playful, chased, whatever it might be? Locked or not, it becomes a weapon against you. I have seen people get wrapped up in these and cut bad. I’ve seen people get tied up in them and fall over because the dog took off around them in a circle. I’ve seen the leash snap off at the dog and the recoil whips people in the face, arms or body. I’ve seen people drop the handle and the heavy plastic casing hits their dog. I have seen a lot happen with handlers and these leashes that I just say, do yourself and your dog a favor and just don’t use them.
NYLON LEASHES
I like these, they are pretty durable, generally pretty cheap depending on the type that you get (leather handle / double handle) and they come in many varieties of color and patterns. The most important thing about these leashes is that you don’t leave them accessible for your dogs to chew up. I recommend a 4-6ft length medium or heavy grade for comfort and control.
LEATHER LEASHES
I love using leather leashes. These are my favorite type of leash to use. I have one that I’ve been using since 2000. My favorite part about these is they give you a very comfortable grip on your dog. The best thing about them? The more you use them, the softer they become. Still giving you a good grip after 15+ years. I highly recommend using these 6 ft is a good length for training and walking.
TAB LEASHES
These leashes are fabulous for close-contact training as well as preparation for off-leash training. They are about 1-2 ft long with the handle taking up ½-¾ of the length. This keeps your dog in very close control to you. It doesn’t give them a lot of room to run around or get ahead or behind you. I have used these my entire dog career. I highly recommend getting one of these. The material isn’t AS important as your regular training lead; however, I do like leather or at least a leather-cushioned handle. Be sure the clip is very strong and durable.
DOUBLE LEAD
These come as an extension that you put on your regular leash, where it has a central ring and two clips on the ends of two short (1 ft) leashes. These are used for people with multiple dogs who want to walk them at the same time together. I am okay with these being used as long as your two dogs do not have the potential to “take out” any sort of reaction on each other, in case anything were to occur on your walk. Sometimes dogs can get over stimulated if they are leash-reactive, and if they have a dog near them they will react at the nearest warm body because they can’t get to the offender. If you have dogs that do not react to dogs, or will not reciprocate if a dog reacts at them, then yes – these are a wonderful tool to have for multiple dog families!
Another type is a single 7 ft lead that has three rings and two clips on it. This is the lead that I use most often and prefer it in leather. Currently I have a heavy cotton type and though it’s comfortable – I prefer my leather. This leash can be used for two dogs to keep them at 7 ft length apart, or you can clip several small extensions on it, you can wrap it around your waist and clip it to you as a hands-free leash, you can give it a handle and use it as a regular leash. There are so many things you can do with this one leash which is why I am a big fan of this one! I definitely recommend having one in your dog supply closet.
LONG LINE
Long lines are used as training tools. They are 20-50 ft and made of nylon or a thick cotton-type material. All of them come with handle for you and a clip at the other end for the dog – just like a very giant, well, leash. Long lines would not be good for going on your average walks; however, if you’re training your dog in the field they are great. I use these for working on recall as well as working on distance stays. Yes I use them out in the world at parks or in the front yard. Again it is used for training purposes only and that means that I and my dog are both 100% focused on one another and I am staying in control of the situation. Very different from your 25 ft retractable leash.
CHAIN LEASH
Chain leashes come in second to retractable leashes for me. Only in extremely rare cases would I ever recommend one of these. They are uncomfortable on your hands, they restrict you to only holding onto the handle which is usually about 8” long, giving your dog 4 ft+ of freedom to do whatever. In the rare cases that I have recommended this type of leash, I have also required the handler buy a comfortable set of leather gloves in order to handle the leash. I don’t recommend this one for any reasons beyond habitual leash-biters / destroyers in which the handlers cannot get them to stop chewing on the leash when they use it – Only after we have exhausted every other option out there including training. (VERY rare! Did I emphasize this enough?)
LEAD ROPE
I like lead ropes because I use them with horses. That being said, they do not have a handle attached to them, so they are not as recommended with dogs who might have a habit of bolting or spooking. When I use a lead rope on a dog, it’s because I probably don’t have any other option, usually only used on a dog who is VERY well-behaved with leash manners. They are soft, round, and come in many patterns. OK to get if you want something different or more durable for your dog and comfortable on your hands.
CABLE
Cables are industrial strength wires encased in a hard plastic, with clips on either end. These are for temporary or training purposes. The only times I use cables are the times that I need to tie a dog out for a short period of time where I might need both hands, and/or I don’t want any potential leash-chewing or destroying happening. If I know I have a dog who would chew his way off of the lead in an uncontained area, that’s when I’ll grab a cable to tie them out with. These can be potentially dangerous so I do not recommend ever leaving your dog tied up for any amount of time alone, regardless of what they are on. I would bring a cable out camping if I had a dog who was a wanderer. In most other cases, I would probably rather use a crate for containment.
WATERPROOF LEASH
These are best used for when you head to the beach, lake, or river. They don’t absorb the mud and dirt from where you’re visiting, and they can easily be rinsed off, keeping their often bright colors. Best used with waterproof collars too! These are great for bath time if you have a doggo who is not much of a fan – easy to hang onto them, and the water won’t ruin the collar / leash. Very convenient.
LEASH LAW
California does have a leash law stating that your dog must be on a leash at all times in any public place. Off-leash is a concept and goal that many people would like to get their dogs to. Which I understand and highly recommend! But I do not recommend it so that you can go everywhere with your dog off-leash. I recommend Off-Leash training for purposes of having your dog listen if it were to ever get off of the leash accidentally.
There are places that are designated off-leash dog parks and beaches. Dogs are, of course, allowed to be off of the leash, as long as they are social, well-behaved, can listen to direction well, and come when you call them. This is where off-leash training comes in very handy. There are no exemptions from the leash law.
In cases of Service Dogs, Police Dogs, Search and Rescue dogs the law says that they need to be under complete handler control and usually these dogs are still wearing a lead that is short enough to not interfere with the dog’s job or task.
Published by Amy Noble on 8/21/19
Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.
A tool that I often use and highly recommend is the classic Kong toy. They have different durabilities for different types of bites that’ll be chomping on them. (Side Note: If Biteforce is interesting to you? Check THIS out!) They have puppy Kongs, regular, medium, tough, and mega tough! If you have a big chewer – get the tougher ones! They are color-coded as well, to make them easily findable in a lineup.
I always kept several black “Mega Chewer” Kongs around for my previous, 100lb dogs. It took a bit for them as puppies to really get into using them, but once they learned what they were, it was something they got multiple times a week!
Kongs can be a life-saver on the ears (barkers), on your furniture (destructive chewers), can ease anxiety, and keep a bored puppy busy for a while! They are a great tool and toy that I think every doggy household should have several, of. I like to keep 2-3 per dog, especially puppies, so that way one is being used, one is soaking, and the other is ready to go!
Filling them with something tasty is just as important as the toy itself. That’s what gets them to find interest in the first place, it also provides added enrichment to their lives. Sure, peanut butter is a good idea and easy to do, but don’t you think variety is more fun? Keep them guessing! Not only are these recipes full of different tastes and textures, your dogs will also be getting added nutrients too!
Just like children, dogs will have likes and dislikes. Some dogs love broccoli where others can’t stand it. I have even known dogs who would refuse steak! My advice is to start small. Don’t make a huge batch of anything until you know your dog will enjoy it, and not have any tummy issues with it. Ease into anything new you give your dog, and if your dog has any medical issues please ask your vet before you attempt to give them anything new to ensure it won’t conflict with their health.
If you use Peanut Butter, please only use *Natural* Peanut Butter. Ingredients should read: Peanuts and Salt. That’s it. There are several brands out there that are in your normal grocery stores that carry Natural Peanut Butter. The other brands that have additives put ingredients such as sugars or flavorings, and xylitol which are not good for your dog to consume.
All of these recipes can be given either blended up to a thick milkshake or oatmeal consistency, or sliced and stirred up together like a “fruit salad”. If it’s too moist or liquidy, it can make a real big mess once thawed. Thicker is better. Mix and Match them however you like – get creative! It’s about enrichment and fun. Most recipes are allergy-friendly.
Begin by giving ¼ cup – ½ cup, depending on the size of the dog. Keep in mind how much you are giving them – the calories will add up! I also recommend throwing it in the freezer for at least 6 hours to solidify, that way it can last longer for your dog.
You can add: treats, kibble, meat pieces to any of these. Either top with them or hide in the mixture as little “easter eggs” for your pupper to find.
Yes, I named them all after dogs I’ve known and worked with.
1. Autumn’s Harvest Snack
-Pumpkin Puree
-Mashed Sweet Potato
-Plain Greek Yogurt
-Diced Carrots
-Kibble bits
2. Baby’s Healthy Start
-Applesauce
-Cooked Rice
-Shredded Chicken
-Blueberries
3. Little Monster’s Nibbles
-Cooked Rice
-Chicken Broth
-Mashed Sweet Potato
-Peas & Carrots Mix
4. Kaylee’s Delight
-Plain Greek Yogurt
-Diced Apple
-Rolled Oats
-Shredded Chicken
5. Harley’s Go-To
-Cheese
-Pumpkin Puree
-Carrots
-Diced Apple
-Shredded Chicken
6. Zhadie’s Fave
-Sliced Strawberries
-Chicken Broth
-Cooked Rice
-Plain Greek Yogurt
-Rolled Oats
7. Cocoa’s Shake
-Blueberries
-Applesauce
-Diced Carrots
-Plain Greek Yogurt
8. Love, Rosie & Charlie
-Cooked Rice
-Green Beans
-Cranberries
-Apple Chunks
-Capelin Whole Fish (treats)
9. Preferred By Tobi
-Pumpkin Puree
-Apple Slices
-Shredded Chicken
-Cooked Rice
10. Penyo’s Plate
-Cooked Rice
-Steak Strips
-Green Beans
-Mashed Sweet Potato
11. Only For Prince
-Crunchy Peanut Butter
-Blueberries
-Kibble
-Shredded Chicken
-Applesauce
12. Shadow’s Delight
-Mashed Banana
-Peanut Butter
-Shredded Chicken
-Peas & Carrots
13. Remy’s BurgerHead Special
-Ground Beef Patty (plain)
-Cubed Cheese
-Strawberry Slices
-Pumpkin Purée
Happy Snacking!🐶
Published by Amy Noble on 8/14/19
Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.
There is no such thing as a legitimate Online Doctors note, Registry or Certification for a pet to be a Service Animal.
Taken from the ADA’s website: “There are individuals and organizations that sell service animal certification or registration documents online. These documents do not convey any rights under the ADA and the Department of Justice does not recognize them as proof that the dog is a service animal.”
There are major differences between the three types of Service Animals: Emotional Support, Therapy and Service Animal.
The ADA defines a Service Animal as any dog, or other animal individually trained to provide assistance to an individual with a disability. Otherwise meaning, the only ones lawfully covered by the DoJ are Task-trained Service Animals.
Emotional Support Animals (ESAs) are NOT the same as Task-Trained Service Animals. They are not covered by the ADA or Department of Justice, they do NOT have public access rights to “go anywhere you want”. They are not a license to have dogs where you otherwise couldn’t, and it is illegal and unethical to claim an Emotional Support/Service Animal to get around breed restrictions in apartments. Additionally, faking a Service Dog team can land you up to a $5,000 fine in California.
Including fines and other legal issues that those will run into when bringing their pet dogs to Wal-Mart or the grocery store? They are putting real, legit Service Dog teams in danger simply by just being there. These teams are highly trained and have spent countless hours and money on becoming what they are, and getting to the point of working together in public. More than likely, the pet dog has not had nearly the same amount, nor type, of training and can distract, react to, or attack a legit Service Dog Team.
Not all disabilities are visible. Sometimes a handler may need their dog to alert them to an impending seizure, a drop in blood pressure, an oncoming anxiety attack, someone or something approaching proximity boundaries. It could be anything, and it is nobody’s business what disabilities the handlers have except their own and their Service Animal’s. The point is, if the animal misses his target because he’s distracted by Pet Dog, Fido, barking at him? His handler could get very seriously injured or worse.
Remember, you don’t need to be the Fake Service Dog Police. If you suspect a pet dog is pretending to be a Service Dog, seek out the store’s manager and alert them to your suspicions. It is up to them to ask the two individual questions that grant public access.
Emotional Support Animals DO have their place, and play a very important role in providing comfort and support in their human’s lives. ESA’s are not required to have any specific training because they don’t perform any tasks. ESA’s can also be other animals such as cats, rabbits, or parrots, though those animals may not be allowed to travel on airlines.
If you feel you could benefit from an Emotional Support Animal; you are still required to get your personal doctor or therapist to sign a letter stating your need for the ESA, in order for you to receive Reasonable Accommodations for housing or travel. Your ESA letter does not grant you public access into non-pet friendly stores. They are seen as pets and can be a distraction to Service Dog Teams.
Emotional Support Animals can, however, accompany you to pet-friendly places such as pet stores, some hardware stores, some banks, and some outdoor cafes. If you’re fortunate enough to live in places like the Bay Area – You’ve got Stanford Shopping Center and Santana Row. Monterey County is quite dog-friendly, especially Carmel-by-the-Sea. All of these places are very dog-friendly and encouraged! Most stores will even have water bowls and treats hidden in the back for all the good boys & girls.
Therapy Dogs and Mini horses have a special place as well. These are the animals that visit hospitals, homes and schools to provide comfort and love to their residents. They are there for petting, resting, talking and reading to. These animals DO have a certification process that they generally go through to become a volunteer team. Most hospitals & homes will not allow individual Therapy Dog teams to visit their premises unless they belong with a specific Therapy Dog organization. Many of these Therapy Dog Organizations will require the dogs go through CGC Certification before, and to remain current on for the duration of their service.
Therapy Dogs and Mini horses do NOT have public access rights. They are only permitted in their designated places of service, and pet-friendly businesses.
Dogs and Mini Horses are the two most used animals as Service Animals. They have many different jobs that range from Guide Dogs, to Medical Alert, Mobility, and Psychiatric Service Dogs. These are considered Task-Trained Service Animals.
Psychiatric Service Dogs are very different from Emotional Support Animals. PSD’s are individually trained in tasks to help mitigate their handlers disabilities. They may perform Deep Pressure Therapy (DPT) for anxiety attacks, alert to an oncoming panic attack from PTSD, perform Grounding, remind handler for medications, break dissociative episodes, wake from nightmares, etc. The amazing list of things goes on and the tasks are all individual to each handler team. These teams spend all day together. Some handlers need their Service Animals on an hour-by-hour, a day-by-day or a week-by-week basis. These animals are truly their daily side-kicks and Superheroes all rolled into one.
Banner The Super Dog
Superheroes indeed, I wanted to share some Service Animals that I follow on social media. This girl’s name says it all: “Banner, The Super Dog”. What I love most about her is that she’s a Husky that has been very well trained by her handler. She gets to be a husky, and also takes her job very seriously. And who doesn’t enjoy a cosplaying dog?
Miniature Horses can also perform similar Service jobs; Vision Guide, Medical Alert, and they are a great option for handlers who may need more mobility support than a dog can give.
Flirty The Miniature Service Horse
One such Miniature horse I follow on Social Media is Flirty. She’s sassy and adorable and I really enjoy how open and honest her mama is. Her handler does more than her share of spreading education and information about Service Animals. She gives her readers a glimpse into the life of someone with invisible disabilities, dealing with the public, and the training and daily care of her service animal all while dealing with “real life” stuff. Flirty is her life line and it’s often shared, moments she has needed Flirty to jump into action to do her job. They are a great team, and you can see the love between them.
This is only part of the information I wanted to share. I created a whole second blog to cover the rest. Read Paw’rt Two Here!
Published by Amy Noble on 7/31/19
Amy is an Animal Behaviorist in Monterey Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge workingwith animals. She has helped clients train Medical Alert, Mobility, and Psychiatric Service Animals, and is an AKC CGC Evaluator.
Is this a familiar sight? That blur coming right for your face, at full speed? It can happen anytime. Going out for a walk, coming in the front door, even walking back into the room after being in another for 5 minutes. Maybe you don’t get this view often, but all of your guests do?
Jumping is one of the most common problems of all dog families. Especially with younger dog members. They love to jump! But why?
Firstly, let’s look at the structure of the dog’s face. (And what a cute face that is!) Eyes together facing forward, their nose is under/between their eyes, and their mouth is under their nose. Ears are on the sides/top of the head.
Now, what’s the structure of our face? Eyes together facing forward, our nose is under/between our eyes, and our mouth is under our nose. Ears are on the sides/top of the head. Kind of the same huh?
Dogs communicate through body language and a little bit through scent. They observe us a LOT as young puppies to learn how to read us, our facial expressions, and what we smell like throughout the day.
One of the first things that packs do with one another, is run up to members who may have gone off for a bit and sniff their mouths. This is a survival instinct that’s formed at birth. “If you smell like you’ve eaten something, that means I get to eat too!” The young puppy thinks – and it never goes away. Food = Survival.
Other than our faces, we look like upright-walking, naked dogs. Except our furry canine companions treat us as family and see us as their pack – so naturally they want to do the same thing instinct tells them to. Explore that face! They are able to read if you’re ok, came back safe, if you’ve run into any other naked upright walking dogs, and what you’ve consumed all day. They want the interaction and closeness, and the only way to achieve that, is to jump up at you.
When they’re tiny, we tend to accidentally encourage the jumping. Because five pound Fido looks so cute with his ears flopping all over the place, tail going a million miles a second! So we squeal and coo and pick them up and cuddle them and tell them how much we missed them too! So then our domestic dogs learn that jumping up means love and safety and fun!
Some breeds are more likely to jump than others of course! And if your pup shows a lot of interest in jumping, there are so many things to do with them to hone that skill!
But, how do we STOP it? Yes, some dogs love to jump up more for fun than communication, and others have just built a very naughty habit of doing so.
One – walk towards them. In fact, march towards them! While saying “off!” When puppies are little they don’t want to get stepped on (we’ve all done it, don’t feel bad! How else can they learn to steer clear?), so when you march at them you’re making a big point that your body is moving THIS way, and they better watch out! As they bounce out of the way, do tell them how wonderful they are.
Two – If you’ve got your treat bag handy, grab a handful as you’re walking in the front door. Jumpin Jasper darts towards you, just before he can make it – it rains treats on the ground all around him, in between the both of you. Tell him to find them all! And suddenly you’ve distracted your pooch from pouncing!
Three – Teaching a very strong Wait or Sit Stay of course can always help. Giving them something else to think of before they get the satisfaction of making contact with your legs or stomach or privates even!
When they’re little and bouncing around and trying to get your attention, don’t give it until they’ve stopped jumping! Then they’ll see that patience gives them that needed contact & interaction.
Having guests stop by? Putting Lady on a leash will help control the situation, tell your guests to ignore her until she stops hopping around. As soon as she sits and waits, she suddenly appears and gets recognized by the newcomers! (The treat rain can help with guests too!)
So what if you’ve got a very agile jumper? You want to do something with it and get involved in doggy sports?
Several breeds are famous for their jumping skills. Malinois are probably some of the best jumpers I’ve seen, scaling walls and climbing ladders. We have one in the family (pictured above) and I’ve watched him hop 4 foot fences like they’re ankle high. Australian Cattle Dogs, Australian Shepherds, Border Collies, Shelties, Dalmatians, the list goes on. If they’ve got the build and stamina for it, why not channel it?
Some great sports to do with your jumpers: Agility, fly ball, frisbee or disc dog, and dock jumping for the water lovers. Whatever you decide to do – be sure you introduce slowly and always make it fun!
There has been a very long-standing practice of how one should “break” or “tame” a horse. That generally involved domination of the animal using ropes, chains, and whips. The practice of “Cowboying” a horse into submission provides you with an animal that is compliant – out of fear.
When mentioning working with a horse I’m often met with comments such as “Oh, I could get him to do what I want – you just gotta not be afraid of him and show him who’s boss!” Ok, sort of, yeah. But I disagree.
Horses are prey animals. They’re naturally afraid anyway, as they should be, of predators or anything that moves, honestly. That fear is what keeps them alive! So then you want to build a relationship based off of that fear? That doesn’t sound like a great time to me.
I know a lot of people do what they do out of love and not knowing any different. Those same people telling me they’d “show him who’s boss” would also say that they love their horses. The methods in which were used on that animal, were used because that’s the way it’s always been.
My very first horse was brought to me by the woman who had been his farrier and had kept him on her property the last year and a half of his, then, 4-year life. I had been studying horse body language and communication for a few years at this point. Looking for gentler, better, methods to work with and train horses, and to be the best I could be with mine. She led him out of the trailer towards the round pen and was telling me how I needed to “show him who’s boss” (yes, that’s a very popular statement in the horse world). She proceeded to close the gate, grabbed a whip, and BAM! Started cracking it right at his hind end. She was super aggressive, running at him growling loudly swinging the whip at him, making him run his heart out until he was glistening with sweat. She was talking about how I NEEDED to run him ragged before doing anything with him because he was “very hot”. I was uncomfortable, he was visibly uncomfortable trying to get away from her, and I felt frozen. I had been training dogs for 10 years at this point and had only ever studied about horses and casually ridden, after all. Whereas she had been a farrier for 20+. What did I know?
I knew for certain that, that would be the last time that ever happened to my boy. He never did choose to go to her, he was forced to stop by being herded into a “corner” and she caught him when he was frozen and shaking. It made me feel sick watching it.
I decided to use my methods with him. Positive reinforcement and building trust. That first week all I did was bond with him so I could basically reset his brain as much as possible. He did everything for me because he WANTED to. I built a friendship based on trust and love. I could get him to do anything I wanted, and he took care of me for the remainder of his life.
Using positive reinforcement, understanding how horses communicate with one other, patience and love will accomplish SO MUCH MORE with your horse. By doing so, you are showing them that you are a safe place. You’re not going to let anything happen to them and will take care of them, so they will trust you and feel drawn to be with you. The bond that is created between your horse and you will be stronger, and everything you do will come much easier.
This boy has had a rough time. Typical beginning with typical “training”. His behavior and body language speak volumes to me.
Before I met him, his basic story was: He can’t be caught. They chase him around for 3hours+ to no avail. His mom would end up sitting in the middle of his paddock completed defeated. Not only was she missing basic vet and farrier appointments? She had to miss out on work every time as well. He runs at the sight of a halter and has his ears pinned about 90% of the time. He’s kicked out at and given warning nips to anyone who tried to work with him. Had been through two different trainers before me, one of them he threw on her head. He hadn’t been ridden in years and the one and only time his mom got to, it ended before it started and that was the same day, right before the trainer got tossed. Everyone advising her said he “just needed a cowboy to come fix him”. Sounded like my work was cut out for me…
First day I met him, it was obvious he didn’t have a lot of trust in anyone! He pinned his ears pretty much constant; every time his mom or I would look at him or go to pet him, or even when anybody would move or do anything that he though was “out of his control”. He showed obvious signs of heavy hands being on him in his longtime past. He definitely had been broken. That day, I just listened to his story and won him over.
At the time of this writing, I’ve only worked with him for two separate hours. We’ve already managed to decrease the ear pinning down to about 30%. He is beginning to trust me, lets me pet him in more areas than his head/face, and I’ve caught and led him by having him come to me in just 35 minutes.
If it weren’t for my methods of positive reinforcement, patience, understanding and love? Who knows how many more missed work, appointments and frustrating hours, days or even years they would have had to endure. And where it stands now? She’ll be able to enjoy her horse for many years to come. I’m confident I’ll have her in the saddle as well.
We still have a lot of work to do – and I will be writing updated blogs on this guy! Stay tuned!
Helping People Intuitively Understand Their Dogs Better Every Day!
