All posts by Weyekin

Birds, Cats, Dogs, Rabbits, summer

San Jose, Ca: Surviving the Summer Heatwaves

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There is a heat wave expected to hit the Bay Area this weekend, so I thought I’d post about how to prepare, what to do, and how to survive the heat with your fur babies.

First and foremost; Unless you are taking a trip to the vet, or similar destination from point A to point B where your animal is expected at point B as well? If it is hotter than 83° outside, don’t bring your pets in the car. Anywhere. If it’s a trip to the drive-thru and your AC is working beautifully? By all means – we can come up with exceptions to the rule all day long. The point is, animals don’t belong in hot cars on warm days during the summer. And if it’s going to be that warm, it’s likely that the asphalt of every parking lot and every sidewalk to your destination is going to be pretty dang warm also.

Check the ground! I like to err on the side of caution and leave any outside trips for earlier in the day, or later in the evening. Asphalt soaks in the heat from the direct sun, then it radiates back up and one thing that many people don’t consider is the fact that their dogs are only 1-2 ft (give or take) off the ground, right where all that heat is hanging out.

My rule to everybody is that if you cannot place your hand on the asphalt for more than 5 seconds it’s too hot to take your pup, who’s wearing a fur coat and walking on bare feet, out. If you can’t tell by placing your palm down, place the back of your hand, if you still cannot tell, take off your shoes and stand on the sidewalk that’s been in the direct sun for more than an hour – that will give you a really good idea of the temperature. Save walks for the evening / early morning.

Or, forget walks altogether! There’s nothing that will happen to your dog if you give them a few days off because it’s continually 85°+ outside. Heat stroke is real and can still affect them, even if you walk them early in the day. Consecutive hot days mean being lazy inside, eating frozen treats!

Utilize your Kong toys and your freezer. Prepare a few Pupsicles filled with Peanut butter and greek yogurt, or chicken broth and diced carrots. Plug the little hole at the top, fill them up and toss in the freezer for a cool treat your pup can enjoy during the warm afternoons. Freeze some water bottles full of water so they can play with those to keep busy or spend some energy.

Be sure your water bowls are refilled and cleaned out. I never leave water buckets or bowls in direct sun very long. Some sunlight is good for sterilizing, but hot water is not fun nor safe to drink. Remember our dogs’ temperatures run higher than ours. Bring the water into the shade, or leave it under an umbrella and always check it before you let your pooches out to drink from it. Personally, we have water bowls inside and in crates. There is one outside but it gets dumped and refilled probably 6-10 times daily.

Do you have a hoppity bunny in your life? The hot months are the WORST time for a bunny rabbit. In nature they dig deep holes in the ground and hunker down where the sunlight never penetrates and it stays nice and cool. They absolutely do not do well in temperatures over 80°. If you have a rabbit that lives outside, bring it in. Freeze a water bottle for them to lie on, put them where there is air flow and fans. If you are unable to bring them in from the heat, turning a mister on in the yard and giving them frozen water bottles will save their lives. I have many tragic stories of hard lessons learned that I don’t wish for anyone to repeat. Bring the bunnies in! Luckily for us, Monterey county doesn’t get nearly as hot as the Bay Area, our Rini girl happily lives in her own room where it never reaches over 70 degrees.

Birds and Cats are probably the easiest to care for. Birds have insulating feathers that keep them warm when it’s cold and cool when it’s hot. They may be less active and a bit more quiet (not in our house). But if it’s really warm for extended periods of time. Giving them baths makes them feel good. Keeping them in a well-ventilated room is best also.

Cats will find a cool hiding spot and wait out the heat. Some of them will lay right in the sunbeams blazing through your window. Cats do what they want. Just make sure they have water and they’re fine. If you have an outside cat, be sure you provide lots of shade and a way to get out of the heat. Many kitties run up trees, thinking they’re heading towards some shade only to be stuck up in the direct sun and hot air, stressing themselves into faster dehydrating. Best to bring them in as well.

All in all, head inside, turn on the AC (or fans), get the Netflix or Amazon Prime going and grab some snacks for you and the fur kids – wait out the hottest part of the day and enjoy yourselves when it’s cooler out.

Looking for activities to do? Check out my Summertime Outings post!

Published by Amy Noble on 7/24/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Positive Reinforcement Training, Puppies, Training Tips

Monterey, Ca: Potty Training with Puppies

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Puppies are some of the cutest little beings on the planet! They’re soft, and lovable, playful, bouncy, and so easy to pick up and snuggle.

Quick! What’s the first puppy con that comes to mind?! (Except for biting/chewing 😉) Yup, Potty Training!

The number one asked question of every new dog owner – And number one concern of every parent of every child whose ever mentioned the word “puppy”.

It can be a frustrating time, sometimes longer than anticipated, or it can be smooth and easy. I’ve experienced it all different ways and as I say to everyone? Every dog is different.

My King Shepherd and Malamute were the easiest two – Done in just a weekend. Next easiest would be Kiba our current Husky/WGSD; though in his favor – he was already about 7 months old when we got him and had already been getting potty trained in his foster home (Thanks Sara!). Our Border Collie kid, Raizo and my past Husky Prince tie for the most difficult. Thankfully for me, my parents did most of Prince’s training. And coincidentally – these two were trained using the same technique, paper (pad) training.

Let’s get into it – Which way is best? Easiest? Most effective? The answer, as always is “That depends…”

It depends on how much time you have, how quickly your puppy learns, how routinely you live, and even the type of environment you live in. You could train to go on puppy pads and eventually move them closer to the door and outside. You could use the good old frequent trips outside to show them where to go. There are grass patches now that act as doggy litter boxes that can be effective. An actual doggy litter box with absorbent puppy-safe litter.

What matters most is being consistent and having a set routine. Everybody benefits from having a regular routine of the time you wake, when you exercise and have meals, work, and the time you close it all down for the night to sleep. Just to do it all over again several days a week.

Having a puppy on a set meal routine for instance, will encourage regular, fairly predictable trips out to potty. Having a walk each day will also help keep their systems running regular.

Your rules of thumb are; Every time they wake up from sleep or a nap, potty. Every time after a meal from immediately to up to 30 minutes later, potty. After a big play session of running, zooming and bouncing, potty. Essentially, they go about every 30 mins to an hour. You can do the leg work and take them out to their spot to encourage them to go – but be sure to throw a puppy potty party after! You want them to feel good about where they go!

If they go inside on the carpet, just remember that they’re learning. We wouldn’t get angry at our infants for soiling their diapers. Don’t get angry at the puppy.

Puppies aren’t completely in tuned with their bodies. It takes a bit for them to recognize patterns of the physical feelings and sensations, what they mean, and how to take care of it. When you do your due diligence and pay close attention you will start to notice their signs and it is up to you to guide your little one to the correct spot.

Things to look for: Sudden sniffing in circles, tail held high, sometimes stiffened at the base, then you’ll see concentration show up on their face – bring them to their spot!

Sometimes the act of stopping them to bring them out can startle them and then their bodies shut down and they don’t need to go anymore. That’s ok, try again in another 10 minutes or so.

Reward, reward, reward! That is what will train them faster than anything else. Have some special “potty party” treats that you give when they’ve successfully gone in the right spot.

Just remember it takes time, patience and proactive consistency!

Published by Amy Noble on 7/17/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Training Tips

Jump Pups and What To Do

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Is this a familiar sight? That blur coming right for your face, at full speed? It can happen anytime. Going out for a walk, coming in the front door, even walking back into the room after being in another for 5 minutes. Maybe you don’t get this view often, but all of your guests do?

Jumping is one of the most common problems of all dog families. Especially with younger dog members. They love to jump! But why?

Firstly, let’s look at the structure of the dog’s face. (And what a cute face that is!) Eyes together facing forward, their nose is under/between their eyes, and their mouth is under their nose. Ears are on the sides/top of the head.

Now, what’s the structure of our face? Eyes together facing forward, our nose is under/between our eyes, and our mouth is under our nose. Ears are on the sides/top of the head. Kind of the same huh?

Dogs communicate through body language and a little bit through scent. They observe us a LOT as young puppies to learn how to read us, our facial expressions, and what we smell like throughout the day.

One of the first things that packs do with one another, is run up to members who may have gone off for a bit and sniff their mouths. This is a survival instinct that’s formed at birth. “If you smell like you’ve eaten something, that means I get to eat too!” The young puppy thinks – and it never goes away. Food = Survival.

Other than our faces, we look like upright-walking, naked dogs. Except our furry canine companions treat us as family and see us as their pack – so naturally they want to do the same thing instinct tells them to. Explore that face! They are able to read if you’re ok, came back safe, if you’ve run into any other naked upright walking dogs, and what you’ve consumed all day. They want the interaction and closeness, and the only way to achieve that, is to jump up at you.

When they’re tiny, we tend to accidentally encourage the jumping. Because five pound Fido looks so cute with his ears flopping all over the place, tail going a million miles a second! So we squeal and coo and pick them up and cuddle them and tell them how much we missed them too! So then our domestic dogs learn that jumping up means love and safety and fun!

Some breeds are more likely to jump than others of course! And if your pup shows a lot of interest in jumping, there are so many things to do with them to hone that skill!

But, how do we STOP it? Yes, some dogs love to jump up more for fun than communication, and others have just built a very naughty habit of doing so.

One – walk towards them. In fact, march towards them! While saying “off!” When puppies are little they don’t want to get stepped on (we’ve all done it, don’t feel bad! How else can they learn to steer clear?), so when you march at them you’re making a big point that your body is moving THIS way, and they better watch out! As they bounce out of the way, do tell them how wonderful they are.

Two – If you’ve got your treat bag handy, grab a handful as you’re walking in the front door. Jumpin Jasper darts towards you, just before he can make it – it rains treats on the ground all around him, in between the both of you. Tell him to find them all! And suddenly you’ve distracted your pooch from pouncing!

Three – Teaching a very strong Wait or Sit Stay of course can always help. Giving them something else to think of before they get the satisfaction of making contact with your legs or stomach or privates even!

When they’re little and bouncing around and trying to get your attention, don’t give it until they’ve stopped jumping! Then they’ll see that patience gives them that needed contact & interaction.

Having guests stop by? Putting Lady on a leash will help control the situation, tell your guests to ignore her until she stops hopping around. As soon as she sits and waits, she suddenly appears and gets recognized by the newcomers! (The treat rain can help with guests too!)

So what if you’ve got a very agile jumper? You want to do something with it and get involved in doggy sports?

Several breeds are famous for their jumping skills. Malinois are probably some of the best jumpers I’ve seen, scaling walls and climbing ladders. We have one in the family (pictured above) and I’ve watched him hop 4 foot fences like they’re ankle high. Australian Cattle Dogs, Australian Shepherds, Border Collies, Shelties, Dalmatians, the list goes on. If they’ve got the build and stamina for it, why not channel it?

Some great sports to do with your jumpers: Agility, fly ball, frisbee or disc dog, and dock jumping for the water lovers. Whatever you decide to do – be sure you introduce slowly and always make it fun!

Cats, Dog Behavior, Dogs, Holidays, summer

Happy Fourth of July! Fireworks and your fur babies.

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Fourth of July can mean family time, BBQ’s, swimming pools, and beaches. The beautiful display of fireworks celebrating our independence, closing the evening out with spectacular shapes and colors displayed all over the night sky. The perfect midsummer celebration to create magical memories that last a lifetime.

But for some, it can mean stress, anxiety, fear, loud noises, over-stimulation, confusion and the sense of being under attack from above.

So what should you do if your pet is fearful? Plan ahead! If you know your pets don’t or won’t like the fireworks, there are plenty of preventative measures you can take.

Most importantly, if you have an outside cat who likes to cruise in and out during the day and evening. Bring them in. Set up a room or bathroom with their food, litter box, a cat tree or a bed to hide in / under. Put them in the room with some new toys, catnip, and some yummies – and close the door. Keeping them contained in a room is much safer for them than trying to brave the outdoors when confusion hits. I recently mentioned to someone: “I’d much rather have a cat who is pissed off at me for locking them up, than to have to bury my cat because they tried to find cover in a panic and got hit by a car.” Hurting your pets pride or ego is 100% curable. Keep that in mind.

Setting up a quiet, comfortable space for kitty to spend the evening is going to be your best bet for keeping them happy and safe!! Don’t take any chances. Keep them in.

I have heard many, many horror stories about dogs getting out of the yard, jumping fences, chewing through fences, breaking through glass windows, all for getting away from fireworks.

My advice for them would be quite similar as for cats. Bring them in where it’s safe. If they are kennel dogs, setting the kennel up in a bedroom with the radio or TV playing for some noise, some chew bones or filled frozen Kong’s to keep them busy – and something to take their stress out on. Close windows and doors to help dampen the sound, maybe turn on a fan to keep the air flowing. All of these things will help to set a calm environment.

If your dog is exceptionally anxious or nervous, I would suggest NOT leaving them alone. Keep them with you, hang out at home, or board them with a friend they are comfortable with where you know they’ll be contained, safe, and with others. In most of the Animal world there is safety in numbers! Being with the pack and watching them handle the noise helps a nervous dog tremendously!

Being in a pack of dogs that are all friends and being able to play can help many dogs make it through the fourth also! Years ago I would have puppy parties at my house. We would take all the nervous dogs and have them in mid-play before the fireworks in our neighborhood began. That way they were otherwise distracted during the event and then too busy to even care.

What helps the most is being a calm, confident, leader towards them. Dogs are looking for leaders to follow and if the leader isn’t worried, they drop their worries too. Never coddle or fawn over your dog when they are in a nervous state. Instead, confidently tell them that they are ok, and divert their attention to something else. If they aren’t interested in anything else and would much rather cuddle and lay with you – then do that without any emotional sing-songy communication.

Remember: Calm, confident, leadership.

Dog Behavior, Dogs

Toys, Play Dates and Pack Mates

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Dogs love to play, right? And they love their toys! So it’s natural to think that involving toys in a play session is totally normal and okay to do with multiple dogs. And it is, in some situations.

Toys can be a great addition to your doggy socials, but they can also be a source for resource guarding in some dogs. Which can lead to them having words or worse, with another unknowing dog who maybe wants to try to play with them, with that toy.

As a general rule; if I am inviting a friend dog over for the first time to hang out with my social boy who loves to play? I pick up all the toys and put them away. A new play date should be just that, a date between the pups. This keeps the environment as neutral as possible and allows the dogs to figure each other’s personality and play styles out. They focus attention on each other and will have a good time! I will continue to not allow toys between friends until they’ve built a good solid relationship with one another – after several play sessions, then I will slowly introduce toys to their dates. Which I’ll describe down below.

So, what about pack mates? The way that I have pack mates integrate has many steps and toys are a step in their bonding process that comes in time. Let’s say you started off with one dog. You have that pup for about a year or two and they’ve got their set of toys; some are favorites, most are fun, some are “eh”. Now you bring puppy into the mix. Puppy obviously needs TONS of toys and stimulation to keep them happy and nondestructive. But I don’t allow puppy to just come in and take over older dogs toys. That can cause undue stress in your pack and could lead to problems later on. Puppy gets their own area to acclimate / potty train / stay out of trouble / and play with THEIR set of toys. Baby toys. Teething toys that are softer for their baby mouths, etc. In some cases the older dog will bring some of their toys to the puppy – and those are the ones I start with.

Just like a play date, I have my new puppies play with my older dogs without anything around. Just for the first few days. I don’t allow full integration right away, it’s just how I do it, so when the dogs do hang out (and that is most of the day – when I’m there to monitor), they figure each other out and baby begins to learn their place in the family. This also strengthens the bond between dogs because, again, they only have each other to focus on. When I’m not watching and they go back to their puppy pen, everybody gets their own toys back.

This lasts maybe the first week. After that, I begin to add toys to their play. When I do, I bring out twice as many as there are dogs. The toys I bring out are the ones big dog brought to little dog to share through the pen, the bland toys, the “eh” toys. In other words I bring out all the toys that don’t mean much to the big dog. I keep their favorites up until MUCH later in their relationship. Tug toys, ropes, long floppy toys, things that they can both enjoy together and both have enough room to hold onto it at once. This minimized any jealousy or upset misunderstandings between the two. Gradually they get more and more toys to play with together, as they learn to share.

If I ever see someone getting possessive over an item I will take it and claim as mine. This keeps order in the pack, feelings from getting hurt, and prevents grudges from being built. Whoever that toy belonged to originally, I will return it to them when the puppy goes back up.

All of this doesn’t take long. They learn to share pretty quickly given plenty of time to do so. I rotate toys often and bring new ones out to keep things interesting between them. Also when you have multiple dogs, your toys get destroyed that much faster!

So what about a fully integrated pack and new toys? I ALWAYS buy multiple and always give them to the whole pack at the same time. This way they see it as all of theirs not just singularly theirs. When they receive the new toys together – they’re more likely to share them equally. Always remember though, if you’re giving something new, have an equal number of new toys to dogs, or equal +1 is better!

Dogs, summer

Summertime Outings!

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We all love a good vacation, and what better time to take one than Summer?

In just two days, we’ll be at the Solstice and summertime fun is just starting to heat up! There are so many great things to do with your pets this time of year. No more being cooped up from the rain! (And, man did we have a BUNCH of that this year!!)

The beach is popular among humans and canines alike. I never thought I’d fall in love with the beach as much as I have, until I moved just 20 minutes away from the Monterey Peninsula. What’s not to love? It’s warm sand and sun, breezy days, calming ocean waves. And lots of pooches having the time of their life!

Not every beach is an off-leash or a dog park beach, so be sure to check which specific beach you’re visiting, to make sure your pup is welcome. If your dog has a strong recall then you can bring a frisbee, tennis balls, rope toys, a floating buoy! Whatever your dog’s favorite is!

Just remember to bring plenty of fresh water for them to drink. Ingesting a bunch of ocean water is just as bad for them as it would be for us! And when you’re finished, a quick run through their pads and toes with some fresh clean water to wash away any sand will help keep your pups paws from rashes or abrasions.

Hikes are a great way to spend your mornings or late afternoons with your dogs! The outdoors provide so much enrichment for them to sniff and see.

There are hiking trails all over from mid-city parks to the forests of Big Sur. It’s always good to bring extra water and bowls for your fur kids, as well as a quick first aid kit in case they snag their paw. Saline solution and gauze wraps.

One thing to remember is to check the heat wherever you are going. Even though you may not be walking on concrete – dirt and sand can still get pretty toasty! Always be aware of your puppy’s paws since they’re walking around in bare feet.

To the River! Or your favorite lake! These are fantastic places for pups to play. Again, not all lakes are doggy approved, so be sure to check with the park you’re visiting before you go.

What I love about lakes and rivers is that the water is fresh (depending on your rivers location!) and there’s less likely to be a bunch of fine sand to bother toes. Not to mention, generally, the current isn’t as strong.

They are not without their challenges, rocks, Blue-green algae, and bacteria can be found in the water – always bring your fur family member their own water bottle to drink from, and take a good once over before letting the doggos go!

Blue-green algae can be quite deadly to your dog, whether or not they drink it from the water, or clean it off their coat. Be aware of where you bring your pooch and steer clear of this! If they do get into some – an immediate trip to the vet is recommended!

I never thought I’d be a camping person… and I’d say that I’m still only maybe HALF in love with camping. I know I prefer boat camping on the island in the middle of the delta or at a lake. Just as long as there are some actual restrooms nearby, I’m golden! Lol! I’ll sleep in a tent, cook outside, live on the water or under a tree for a week! No problem.

But, what makes camping ultimately ten thousand percent better? Is having your dog with you! I’ve done both, camping with and without dogs. I prefer having dogs. They just make everything better.

I teach my dogs the word “Hot” so in case of any situation where fire is involved or a danger of them being burnt on something I can say “Hot!” And they will back off. This comes in very handy on a campground, near any open fire. If your dogs don’t know this or are new to outdoor adventures, it would be best to keep them on a lead with you so you can teach them the ropes and keep them safe.

A favorite summer pastime for me is going to outdoor festivals, music festivals, art & wine fairs, anything outside! And if the heat isn’t too bad, my dogs are right by my side.

Many, many outdoor festivals are dog friendly, and it’s great practice, enrichment and socialization for them as well! If you’re headed to a loud music festival and you’ve got a nervous nelly, that might not be the best setting. These types of events tend to have lots of dogs and even more people, they’re absolutely more for the extroverted doggo to enjoy. Unless of course you’ve got a baby sling for your little one, to keep them close and safe. Again, check the weather! Anything too hot should leave your puppers inside at home where they’re cool.

A trip to the park is just as good any time of year. Lots of sniffs and exciting things to hear and see. A place to play ball or frisbee or stretch their little legs for a bit.

This time of year we see lots of dry foxtails and those can be very harmful to your pups. Anytime you work or play near them, always check over your dogs entire body to be sure they don’t pick any up. I never allow my dogs to sniff them either because foxtails love noses! They go in, but they don’t come out! Green foxtails are not harmful. They are still very stable in the ground and are softer than their dried out selves.

Lastly – Naps! Who doesn’t love a summertime nap?! You can’t let this season go by without takin a midday snooze with your best friend. We enjoy naps all year round.

Whatever you do, enjoy your summer with your pupper!! Take some time off and get out there with them. You’ll love it, they’ll love it, and it’ll tire them out! We all know my saying “A tired puppy is a GOOD puppy!”

Happy Summer y’all!!

Dog Behavior, Dogs

Animal Brain Vs. Domestic Brain

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Oftentimes my clients will hear me talk about their dogs being in “Animal brain mode” or “Domestic brain mode” to help explain where their dog’s focus is. There’s a little more to it than just focus.

Dog domestication happened a LONG time ago – their ancestors came from their wild wolf cousins. There is a piece of their functionality that will always remain somewhat ‘wild’. This is their instinctual side, where prey drive and reactivity comes from.

I tend to work more with dogs that function at a higher percentage in Animal brain than they do in Domestic brain, because I specialize in severe behavioral issues and all forms of aggression. My dogs start out functioning at a level of instinct instead of partnership with their humans.

There was a study I read once, that when some dogs instinct kicks in during prey drive, the function of their hearing shuts off. They go so far into Animal brain mode that they literally cannot hear you, because that is the least helpful sense to a dog on the hunt. They gain laser focus and all they want to do is “GO get that thing!!”

I experienced this quite a bit with my Husky, Prince. When he would spot a cat or possum? That was it. There was no getting through to him. I can still see the hard look he would get. Eyes focused, body stiff, and those ears were pinned on the unsuspecting critter! I could yell or scream any command or even some of his favorite words “WALK? Bone! Prince, BONE! LEAVE IT AND COME GET THIS BONE!! Let’s go for a WALK!! DOG!!!” And before I could even finish my sentence… BOOM! He was flying after them. The joy of the hunt was far greater than any pathetic thing I could come up with.

Because I had so much practice with him and watching other clients dogs do the same when they’d spot a squirrel or cat or another dog on the leash, I got really good at spotting the signs and getting their attention before that Animal brain would click on. I could see the train track change coming up on the horizon. The trick is getting those tracks to not switch directions, to keep them going in a straight line in Domestic brain lane. That functioning partnership that we all love and know our dogs are capable of.

Domestic brain is where we like our dogs. They listen, they obey, and they stay in their own lanes. When I work with a dog to get them functioning more in Domestic brain, the transition is a bit stressful, for everyone involved. The dogs instincts are SCREAMING in their bodies, and they will succumb to it at times. But in order to work on it, they need to be continually exposed, in order to learn how to shut it off and stay in the right frame of mind. This is where our ability to be patient and loving and understanding comes in handy. And also a bit of knowledge in body language helps too.

So when your dog is barking out the window at passers by or rushing out the back door to go chase a squirrel, understand that they’re functioning off of something a bit more primal and calling them off may not always work. Catching their attention just before usually will.

Horse Training, Horses

Horse Training: Fear vs. Trust

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There has been a very long-standing practice of how one should “break” or “tame” a horse. That generally involved domination of the animal using ropes, chains, and whips. The practice of “Cowboying” a horse into submission provides you with an animal that is compliant – out of fear.

When mentioning working with a horse I’m often met with comments such as “Oh, I could get him to do what I want – you just gotta not be afraid of him and show him who’s boss!” Ok, sort of, yeah. But I disagree.

Horses are prey animals. They’re naturally afraid anyway, as they should be, of predators or anything that moves, honestly. That fear is what keeps them alive! So then you want to build a relationship based off of that fear? That doesn’t sound like a great time to me.

I know a lot of people do what they do out of love and not knowing any different. Those same people telling me they’d “show him who’s boss” would also say that they love their horses. The methods in which were used on that animal, were used because that’s the way it’s always been.

My very first horse was brought to me by the woman who had been his farrier and had kept him on her property the last year and a half of his, then, 4-year life. I had been studying horse body language and communication for a few years at this point. Looking for gentler, better, methods to work with and train horses, and to be the best I could be with mine. She led him out of the trailer towards the round pen and was telling me how I needed to “show him who’s boss” (yes, that’s a very popular statement in the horse world). She proceeded to close the gate, grabbed a whip, and BAM! Started cracking it right at his hind end. She was super aggressive, running at him growling loudly swinging the whip at him, making him run his heart out until he was glistening with sweat. She was talking about how I NEEDED to run him ragged before doing anything with him because he was “very hot”. I was uncomfortable, he was visibly uncomfortable trying to get away from her, and I felt frozen. I had been training dogs for 10 years at this point and had only ever studied about horses and casually ridden, after all. Whereas she had been a farrier for 20+. What did I know?

I knew for certain that, that would be the last time that ever happened to my boy. He never did choose to go to her, he was forced to stop by being herded into a “corner” and she caught him when he was frozen and shaking. It made me feel sick watching it.

I decided to use my methods with him. Positive reinforcement and building trust. That first week all I did was bond with him so I could basically reset his brain as much as possible. He did everything for me because he WANTED to. I built a friendship based on trust and love. I could get him to do anything I wanted, and he took care of me for the remainder of his life.

Using positive reinforcement, understanding how horses communicate with one other, patience and love will accomplish SO MUCH MORE with your horse. By doing so, you are showing them that you are a safe place. You’re not going to let anything happen to them and will take care of them, so they will trust you and feel drawn to be with you. The bond that is created between your horse and you will be stronger, and everything you do will come much easier.

This boy has had a rough time. Typical beginning with typical “training”. His behavior and body language speak volumes to me.

Before I met him, his basic story was: He can’t be caught. They chase him around for 3hours+ to no avail. His mom would end up sitting in the middle of his paddock completed defeated. Not only was she missing basic vet and farrier appointments? She had to miss out on work every time as well. He runs at the sight of a halter and has his ears pinned about 90% of the time. He’s kicked out at and given warning nips to anyone who tried to work with him. Had been through two different trainers before me, one of them he threw on her head. He hadn’t been ridden in years and the one and only time his mom got to, it ended before it started and that was the same day, right before the trainer got tossed. Everyone advising her said he “just needed a cowboy to come fix him”. Sounded like my work was cut out for me…

First day I met him, it was obvious he didn’t have a lot of trust in anyone! He pinned his ears pretty much constant; every time his mom or I would look at him or go to pet him, or even when anybody would move or do anything that he though was “out of his control”. He showed obvious signs of heavy hands being on him in his longtime past. He definitely had been broken. That day, I just listened to his story and won him over.

At the time of this writing, I’ve only worked with him for two separate hours. We’ve already managed to decrease the ear pinning down to about 30%. He is beginning to trust me, lets me pet him in more areas than his head/face, and I’ve caught and led him by having him come to me in just 35 minutes.

If it weren’t for my methods of positive reinforcement, patience, understanding and love? Who knows how many more missed work, appointments and frustrating hours, days or even years they would have had to endure. And where it stands now? She’ll be able to enjoy her horse for many years to come. I’m confident I’ll have her in the saddle as well.

We still have a lot of work to do – and I will be writing updated blogs on this guy! Stay tuned!

Dogs

The Doggy Wrench

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“He’s YOUR dog, not mine!” “He won’t listen to me!” “You’re the only one that matters to her” “She doesn’t even like me.”

Have you ever said any of these phrases? Or heard your partner say them to you? It’s not at all uncommon for the doggy wrench to be thrown in the middle of a relationship. Some of the longest relationships have had their rough patches due to the dog. You are not alone!

I’ve had many people declare that I saved their marriage after coming in and helping them sort out their puppy problems. Sometimes it’s a basic behavior fix, and other times it may take a different perspective on the part of the humans in the house.

Look, fundamentally, you ALL are a part of your dog’s pack. You may not all have the same relationship with one another, but everybody living in the house is seen as a pack member to the dog. Whether or not they listen to you and/or “like” you, often has a lot to do with how you are thinking about them and the amount of interaction (or lack thereof) with them.

I tell my clients (and even family members) that all it really takes is 5 minutes a day to begin to build a bond with the family dog. They don’t listen to you? Grab a bag of treats and have them earn some through basic obedience or even tricks and games. Take turns filling the food bowl and placing it down for the dog – that way they can see that you provide for them as well. Small changes like this can have a HUGE impact on how your dog views you!

Sometimes, all it takes is finding something you like about the dog, maybe their ears flop over when they look at you a certain way, the way their eyes sparkle when they wake up in the morning and greet you, their coat is extra shiny in the sun, maybe they’re really cute when they get a squeaky ball and want to play. By finding things you enjoy about the dog that you can focus on, you’ll begin to shift your body language and energy towards them – and they will notice and respond with similar positive interactions with you!

It should be noted that if there are more severe behaviors happening such as biting, or attacking a family member – that should be addressed by a Behaviorist for more in-depth training and behavior modification.

Cats, Dogs, Holidays

Happy Howl-o-Ween!!

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image1This is my most favorite Holiday!! Maybe it was the staying out late as a kid, the AWESOME decorations, the bountiful haul of candy, or SCARING PEOPLE that makes it my favorite. But, it’s just the best! Although, it’s not about the candy for me anymore – I still remember how awesome it was when I was younger though. 😉

This holiday can be a nightmare for some animals, funadie-decorations for others, and then the few unaffected who don’t pay much mind to it. Adie, like my husky Prince, is definitely the latter. Prince only thought it was pretty cool when my sister and I would stay in the garage for hours on end, setting up our haunted house, as he cruised around and “helped”. But that was as involved as he ever got. Adie likes to play with the Halloween decorations and lay in the piles of plastic bags that are our “walls” for our haunted house. But she’ll just sleep through tonight, comfy on her bed.

My Shepherd Tobi, though, it almost drove him a bit crazy having so many people come to the door over and over and over randomly, all night long. And, if I had handled the situation any differently, he could very well have been a big ball of stress and nerves that night. Considering his breed, and the fact that he worked alongside me ALL the time. And this was one night a year I was out front, with a lot of people coming over, and he couldn’t “protect me”. 🙂 Even though he would get excited and bark once in a while, he was never stressed or upset. More on the jealous side, if anything.

I have a neighbor whose dog does NOT enjoy Halloween. At. All. He will begin barking tonight around 5pm. And will continue all night in three-to-five-bark increments, until about 10:30pm. I’m not sure what they do with him, but it’s clear he goes outside, and that seems to be it. It’s been this way for years. (Yes, I have offered more than once to help them out).

Nervous or Stressed Doggies:

taco-dogNumber one thing – don’t coddle them when they begin their nervous behaviors. Holding them, hugging them, telling them sweetly that “it’s ok”… That may be very comforting to a human child? It does the opposite to your dog. It actually encourages them to continue the nervousness and it can get worse from there.

You want to keep your nervous pet busy. Give them something to do, so that way they can channel that nervous energy into something constructive instead of barking or pacing or any other sort of “off” behavior they may do. My favorite suggestion is always having something for them to chew or gnaw on, throughout the night. Natural Peanut Butter in a Kong toy, thrown in the freezer. Treat Puzzle toys where the dog needs to figure out how to get the treats out. A new bone to chew on. I like giving natural bones from the butcher, I ask for a shank bone and will give that to the dogs around the time your first trick-or-treater comes by.

snuggled-in-bedProviding a safe place for them to be. A bedroom, bathroom, their crate or a back room away from the front door and all the activity. Have their bed, blankets, or maybe a shirt of yours for them to cuddle up with. Close the door, turn on the radio on low, and give them their chewy to focus on. Going in and checking on them when things are quiet and calm, to tell them how good they’re being will help them a lot. This way they feel protected, and away from all the action going on. They can control the situation they are in – which brings them comfort when they’re in a state of nervousness.

On the contrary, sometimes that can cause a dog to be more upset because they’re not with you. If you are worried about your dog fear-bolting, but you think it has a better time being with you as you open the door to trick-or-treaters, I suggest having them on a tie-down nearby. Whether it be on leash with another family member holding them for safety, or on the railing of a staircase. This way they can see what’s going on but you don’t run the risk of them running out the door if they get scared by a costume. I would still provide them with their favorite toys or a new bone or something to chew on or play with, to keep them busy.

Ultimately, the idea is keeping their minds busy on something POSITIVE while the scary thing is happening. Acting like the boss, not coddling or comforting them. Instead, you will be their leader and tell them, confidently, that you got this and they’re just fine.

My recommendation for those of you with cats that are indoor/outdoor kitties. I suggest you leave them inside today. And keep them in until tomorrow. I posted last week about Kitty Superstitions, and even though the stories aren’t true. People can still be mean to cats on Halloween. Especially if they’re Black Cats! It’s unfortunate, but better to keep your kitty safe!

kane-comfyFor indoor-only kitties, I would also close them up in a room. That way there’s no chance of them accidentally slipping out, or running out/bolting because of fear. Again, you may have a very confident kitty who can take care of him/herself, but it’s better to be safe than to chance it. You Just never know.

Costumes: 

image1Costumes are fun for some, not so much for others. You know your pet best and if you think they’ll dig a costume – by all means, do it! I have never actually put my dogs in full on costumes. But, costumes didn’t start becoming popular until just a few years ago, so that’s just by default, I guess. I did, however, always put my dogs in seasonal-themed bandannas. Tobi loved them the most. He had one on almost all year-round. Prince would tear his off. Adie likes them for a little while, but gets tired of them.

king-harleyIntroduce your dog to them slowly. Let them sniff the items first. Place them on the dog gently. Just lay it on them, at first, and praise them for allowing you to do that. Be sure that the costume size is just right for them. Nothing too small, because you don’t want them to feel constricted. Just make sure it’s a positive interaction, and you try it out a few times before the actual night (I know, it’s kind of late for that – but now you know for next year!).

stooges-halloweenSome pets love them, and wear costumes happily and proudly! And then they can go trick-or-treating as well! It’s just like going on a walk, only in costume – with lots of stops. But it’s a good idea to expose them to you wearing costumes, before Halloween night, as well. By having them watch you put them on and take them off, it teaches the dog that sometimes we can change our “skins”. And they will be less likely to be fearful of other peoples’ costumes.

Candy:

Obviously, this is one thing you really want to watch out for. Dogs shouldn’t have candy of any kind. Sugar is just not good for them. But especially chocolate. Every pet owner should know not to give ANY of your animals chocolate. Ever. It’s not that chocolate, itself, is necessarily dangerous. It’s the concentrated caffeine that comes from the cocoa bean that can cause issues with dogs. Their heartbeat increases and they can’t calm themselves down. It can cause issues in their digestive system as well. Ideally, you want to induce vomiting in case they get a hold of any. But, consider the circumstances first. If my 120lb malamute gets an M&M or 2, she’s most likely going to be fine. But if she ate an entire bag of chocolates, like my sisters dog once did? That would cause a problem. I would encourage vomiting right away. Give her water and watch her. If I were to see any signs of distress, I would bring her in to the vet. But, normally, treatments include fluids and vomiting. Unless the case is pretty bad. So, if your little 5lb chihuahua gets into a snickers bar, that would raise a concern – and I’d most likely take them in to be seen, as a precaution.

It’s best to just keep the candy up high, where they can’t get into it. And also keep a bottle of Syrup of Ipecac in your animal first-aid kid. For those “just in case” times.

bella-ladybugBe safe out there tonight, if you’re going out with your kids. Enjoy yourself! Have fun, and make it fun for your doggies, too!

One last thing! If you’re taking your dogs out with you, at night? Take a look at getting a leash with reflectors on it, or buying reflective material to highlight your dog – just like giving your kids glow sticks. 😉