Tag Archives: animal education

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs

CARMEL, CA: The Way And The Reason I Work.

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Someone asked me recently, “What makes YOU so special?” And, honestly? I love this question! There is something different about me and it does contribute to how and why I work so well with animals – and humans!

I’m a very calm, confident person and I give off that energy to those around me. Dogs are pack animals and appreciate a leader who knows “the way out of the woods,” so-to-speak. A leader who can handle any situation with confidence and ease – so they don’t have to. 

Energy! It’s all about the energy that I give off and even use to communicate with.

I also have a very good grasp of emotions happening; inside of me or within the people around me. I tend to keep myself very positive-neutral and under control – which translates to “leader” in dogs. The confidence I have, and my restraint from having emotional reactions come from years of my own work in self-reflection and understanding the brain and body coherence. 

If a dog is acutely aware of their present self and physical body position / motion, why can’t we be the same? It’s because we’ve become distracted, it’s been trained out of us. I have learned to enhance and utilize it to work for me, with animals, children, and the non-verbal in general. 

And Yes, I do use this same form of self-energy control and distribution to communicate as well. This is a bit more tricky to explain and teach; however, it’s something that we are all capable of. Everybody has the potential – it’s in our code. It’s the same as your gut feelings, your intuition – your Spidey-Senses! You’ve even experienced it before without being aware. Picture this…

You’ve just gotten out of a late night class. The campus is empty and dark. When you showed up earlier, the parking lot was full – so you had to park in the far back. As you pass one of the buildings you see a dark figure leaning against the wall, nobody else is around and suddenly you feel very anxious to get to your car. Your pace quickens, your footsteps pounding in your ears. Your breathing becomes quick and shallow. Your lonely car out there in the lot, by itself in the dark seems to be so far away; it feels like someone is looming right over your shoulder – about to grab you! 

The very next morning news gets to you that a building on your campus was broken into. The very same building you saw the figure the night prior. You felt something was wrong, you knew something was off about that place, that person, that time. You don’t know why or how, but you acted on that feeling by getting to your car quickly, your brain pumping your body full of adrenaline to give you the strength and speed to complete your one and only task of survival. 

It’s instinctual and can be fine-tuned to your advantage whenever you need it.  

Alternatively – You’ve just walked into a new school on day 1. You look around the room for an empty seat, trying not to be noticed. When you lock eyes with a new stranger and they smile. It’s as if a light has shone upon them; all your nerves disappear, you smile easily and suddenly you feel relaxed and excited to start this new year. The two of you have now been the best of friends (or lovers) for 25 years.

I just happened to notice that animals responded much quicker and easier to it all than people did. Though people absolutely can and do – just as well! 

I have been particularly sensitive to these types of moments and feelings since I was a very young child. It’s a silent language that we all are capable of speaking. I just happen to have practiced quietly, internally, since I can remember. Being a child whose vision depended on being extremely observant of my environment, situations, motions, emotions, behaviors and the people around me certainly helped my case. I had to rely on those senses and energy shifts and changes to tell me how to react and adapt in my life.

Energy shifts are the way of animal language:
The deer NEVER needs to walk up to the wolf and ask if he is a friend. He just knows. Zebra know the exact moment to run; the moment the lion has chosen to chase. Instinctual energies have a very palpable feel to them, and as soon as you learn to recognize and read them, is when you can be several steps ahead of the creature you’re working with. 

I do my best to teach this to every one of my clients.

Every time I’ve had a dog on lead who’s decided to attack another, I feel something like a pulse of energy, almost like a puff of air that hits me first. My reflexes and reaction time must be precise to ensure the safety of everybody involved. So I stop it before it starts, or gets too far.

If I start to lose a dog’s attention and they go dancing away, I can picture and *feel* something like an elastic band or cord attached between us, that encourages them to come back by tugging at them to return to me.

That is how I was always able to catch dogs running loose in the neighborhood. 

Now you see, there is something different about me, something special that I have that others may not. I work on many levels with my animals and people, so that everyone benefits and their lives improve. That’s my ultimate goal – to improve the lives of others through transforming relationships with their animals. <3

Published by Amy Noble on 10/23/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.


Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Positive Reinforcement Training, Puppies, Training Tips

Monterey, CA: Why Training Though?

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Besides the obvious reasons of having a well-mannered, short, furry member of your family – Do you know why it’s a good idea that every single doggy household should go through some training?

Brain Plasticity is the ability for the brain to modify it’s connections and rewire itself.
This is what learning and re-learning is. This is the entire basis of what I do. I can take dogs who have learned to behave, act and react in one way and I am able to rewire the brain to think, react, and act a completely different way – while leaving the personality completely in tact.

Whether or not they have behavioral issues, we all run into hurdles, stumbles and naughty puppies somewhere along the line. But because they may act a certain way, doesn’t mean that they need to be labeled or expected to stay that way forever. This is why I specialize in correcting severe behaviors and all forms of aggression, and have been able to fix what others have said could never be.

Our dogs have thoughts, personalities, emotions, and reactions just like us, and they get bored just like our children do – heck adults still get bored too. As puppies their minds and bodies are growing, learning, shaping and becoming who they will be through exploring the world around them. Training brings a change of pace, has them guessing and striving to do things for you because it’s fun and rewarding! It’s very stimulating to do any kind of training with your dog. Whether it be Obedience, Agility, Assistance / Service Dog work, Rally or any other forms of dog sports and activities. 

Training is stimulating to your dog, no matter their age, they enjoy learning new things or practicing well-known skills. When you work with your dog on obedience or tricks or agility – whatever it is, you are working out their brain muscles. Just like children in school, stimulating the brain to function is good for their health, and makes them tired too! And a tired puppy is a GOOD puppy! Thinking and working for treats and toys is mentally exhausting for them in a good way. Do let them take frequent naps in order for their new learning to settle in, and their bodies to unwind. 

When you’re training with your dog, you’re spending quality time with them each day where the two of you are having fun, communicating with one another and bonding. It should be fun for the both of you, where you continue to improve, progress and over time, work together as a stronger team. All of which makes your life with your dog that much more enjoyable. 

Something to remember: Regularly working with your dog is good for your health. Interacting with your dog has been proven to release endorphins in both species, and we biologically respond to one another the same way parents do with their children. Also? Patients who are recovering from illnesses or surgeries recover faster when they have a dog present, their own dog even faster. 

In Short, It’s all around good for everyone!

Published by Amy Noble on 8/28/19
Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Training, Dogs, Equipment, Training Tips

MONTEREY, CA: NOT ALL LEASHES ARE CREATED EQUAL

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You would think that a leash is just a leash. They aren’t – there are different types and different times and reasons for them. I will cover the ones I’ve had experience with and why I would recommend them or not. I do have my favorites, yet also continue to try new products all the time, to find the perfect tool(s) for each situation.

RETRACTABLE LEASHES:

Let’s just start with these guys and get them out of the way, and these are probably the one leash I write the most about. This is one of the most popular leashes on the market. They seem like a really good idea – give your dog 2 feet, or 25! To run and sniff and play on their daily walkies, right? No. These are a bad idea.

They are not safe for you or your dog. 

First, if your dog is at full extension, or anything over 3 feet really, you have lost control of your dog and any situation that may arise. Consider this: You’ve just gotten off work, it’s been a long week. You take Mitzi out for her walkies to the park down the street, something you’ve done every day since you adopted her two years ago. Tonight you’re checking your phone while Mitzi is 15 feet away from you sniffing a bush. Suddenly, without any warning, a stray dog who is highly dog aggressive comes out from the other side of that bush, and he triggers onto your Mitzi. 15 Feet is going to take you MUCH longer to get to your dog, by either retracting or running, than that aggressive dog just two feet away. 

Dogs also startle at times; retractable leashes give your dog the too-easy opportunity to bolt out into the street, not paying attention to where they’re going. Or run into a yard, or across a driveway too far away from you. There are many situations that can, and do, happen. 

On the human side of things…

Most of these leashes are a blend of a long wire and a short bit of actual nylon leash. There are the types that are fully nylon, but that does not improve them much. If you have a dog that is fully extended who gets excited, scared, playful, chased, whatever it might be? Locked or not, it becomes a weapon against you. I have seen people get wrapped up in these and cut bad. I’ve seen people get tied up in them and fall over because the dog took off around them in a circle. I’ve seen the leash snap off at the dog and the recoil whips people in the face, arms or body. I’ve seen people drop the handle and the heavy plastic casing hits their dog. I have seen a lot happen with handlers and these leashes that I just say, do yourself and your dog a favor and just don’t use them. 

NYLON LEASHES

I like these, they are pretty durable, generally pretty cheap depending on the type that you get (leather handle / double handle) and they come in many varieties of color and patterns. The most important thing about these leashes is that you don’t leave them accessible for your dogs to chew up. I recommend a 4-6ft length medium or heavy grade for comfort and control.

LEATHER LEASHES

I love using leather leashes. These are my favorite type of leash to use. I have one that I’ve been using since 2000. My favorite part about these is they give you a very comfortable grip on your dog. The best thing about them? The more you use them, the softer they become. Still giving you a good grip after 15+ years. I highly recommend using these 6 ft is a good length for training and walking. 

TAB LEASHES

These leashes are fabulous for close-contact training as well as preparation for off-leash training. They are about 1-2 ft long with the handle taking up ½-¾ of the length. This keeps your dog in very close control to you. It doesn’t give them a lot of room to run around or get ahead or behind you. I have used these my entire dog career. I highly recommend getting one of these. The material isn’t AS important as your regular training lead; however, I do like leather or at least a leather-cushioned handle. Be sure the clip is very strong and durable. 

DOUBLE LEAD

These come as an extension that you put on your regular leash, where it has a central ring and two clips on the ends of two short (1 ft) leashes. These are used for people with multiple dogs who want to walk them at the same time together. I am okay with these being used as long as your two dogs do not have the potential to “take out” any sort of reaction on each other, in case anything were to occur on your walk. Sometimes dogs can get over stimulated if they are leash-reactive, and if they have a dog near them they will react at the nearest warm body because they can’t get to the offender. If you have dogs that do not react to dogs, or will not reciprocate if a dog reacts at them, then yes – these are a wonderful tool to have for multiple dog families! 

Another type is a single 7 ft lead that has three rings and two clips on it. This is the lead that I use most often and prefer it in leather. Currently I have a heavy cotton type and though it’s comfortable – I prefer my leather. This leash can be used for two dogs to keep them at 7 ft length apart, or you can clip several small extensions on it, you can wrap it around your waist and clip it to you as a hands-free leash, you can give it a handle and use it as a regular leash. There are so many things you can do with this one leash which is why I am a big fan of this one! I definitely recommend having one in your dog supply closet.

LONG LINE

Long lines are used as training tools. They are 20-50 ft and made of nylon or a thick cotton-type material. All of them come with handle for you and a clip at the other end for the dog – just like a very giant, well, leash. Long lines would not be good for going on your average walks; however, if you’re training your dog in the field they are great. I use these for working on recall as well as working on distance stays. Yes I use them out in the world at parks or in the front yard. Again it is used for training purposes only and that means that I and my dog are both 100% focused on one another and I am staying in control of the situation. Very different from your 25 ft retractable leash. 

CHAIN LEASH

Chain leashes come in second to retractable leashes for me. Only in extremely rare cases would I ever recommend one of these. They are uncomfortable on your hands, they restrict you to only holding onto the handle which is usually about 8” long, giving your dog 4 ft+ of freedom to do whatever. In the rare cases that I have recommended this type of leash, I have also required the handler buy a comfortable set of leather gloves in order to handle the leash. I don’t recommend this one for any reasons beyond habitual leash-biters / destroyers in which the handlers cannot get them to stop chewing on the leash when they use it – Only after we have exhausted every other option out there including training. (VERY rare! Did I emphasize this enough?)

LEAD ROPE

I like lead ropes because I use them with horses. That being said, they do not have a handle attached to them, so they are not as recommended with dogs who might have a habit of bolting or spooking. When I use a lead rope on a dog, it’s because I probably don’t have any other option, usually only used on a dog who is VERY well-behaved with leash manners. They are soft, round, and come in many patterns. OK to get if you want something different or more durable for your dog and comfortable on your hands. 

CABLE

Cables are industrial strength wires encased in a hard plastic, with clips on either end. These are for temporary or training purposes. The only times I use cables are the times that I need to tie a dog out for a short period of time where I might need both hands, and/or I don’t want any potential leash-chewing or destroying happening. If I know I have a dog who would chew his way off of the lead in an uncontained area, that’s when I’ll grab a cable to tie them out with. These can be potentially dangerous so I do not recommend ever leaving your dog tied up for any amount of time alone, regardless of what they are on. I would bring a cable out camping if I had a dog who was a wanderer. In most other cases, I would probably rather use a crate for containment.

WATERPROOF LEASH

These are best used for when you head to the beach, lake, or river. They don’t absorb the mud and dirt from where you’re visiting, and they can easily be rinsed off, keeping their often bright colors. Best used with waterproof collars too! These are great for bath time if you have a doggo who is not much of a fan – easy to hang onto them, and the water won’t ruin the collar / leash. Very convenient.  

LEASH LAW

California does have a leash law stating that your dog must be on a leash at all times in any public place. Off-leash is a concept and goal that many people would like to get their dogs to. Which I understand and highly recommend! But I do not recommend it so that you can go everywhere with your dog off-leash. I recommend Off-Leash training for purposes of having your dog listen if it were to ever get off of the leash accidentally. 

There are places that are designated off-leash dog parks and beaches. Dogs are, of course, allowed to be off of the leash, as long as they are social, well-behaved, can listen to direction well, and come when you call them. This is where off-leash training comes in very handy. There are no exemptions from the leash law. 

In cases of Service Dogs, Police Dogs, Search and Rescue dogs the law says that they need to be under complete handler control and usually these dogs are still wearing a lead that is short enough to not interfere with the dog’s job or task.

Published by Amy Noble on 8/21/19


Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Training, Dogs, Puppies, Training Tips

Noms For Kong’s – Recipes for Your Pups

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A tool that I often use and highly recommend is the classic Kong toy. They have different durabilities for different types of bites that’ll be chomping on them. (Side Note: If Biteforce is interesting to you? Check THIS out!) They have puppy Kongs, regular, medium, tough, and mega tough! If you have a big chewer – get the tougher ones! They are color-coded as well, to make them easily findable in a lineup.

I always kept several black “Mega Chewer” Kongs around for my previous, 100lb dogs. It took a bit for them as puppies to really get into using them, but once they learned what they were, it was something they got multiple times a week!

Kongs can be a life-saver on the ears (barkers), on your furniture (destructive chewers), can ease anxiety, and keep a bored puppy busy for a while! They are a great tool and toy that I think every doggy household should have several, of. I like to keep 2-3 per dog, especially puppies, so that way one is being used, one is soaking, and the other is ready to go!

Filling them with something tasty is just as important as the toy itself. That’s what gets them to find interest in the first place, it also provides added enrichment to their lives. Sure, peanut butter is a good idea and easy to do, but don’t you think variety is more fun? Keep them guessing! Not only are these recipes full of different tastes and textures, your dogs will also be getting added nutrients too!

Just like children, dogs will have likes and dislikes. Some dogs love broccoli where others can’t stand it. I have even known dogs who would refuse steak! My advice is to start small. Don’t make a huge batch of anything until you know your dog will enjoy it, and not have any tummy issues with it. Ease into anything new you give your dog, and if your dog has any medical issues please ask your vet before you attempt to give them anything new to ensure it won’t conflict with their health.

If you use Peanut Butter, please only use *Natural* Peanut Butter. Ingredients should read: Peanuts and Salt. That’s it. There are several brands out there that are in your normal grocery stores that carry Natural Peanut Butter. The other brands that have additives put ingredients such as sugars or flavorings, and xylitol which are not good for your dog to consume.

All of these recipes can be given either blended up to a thick milkshake or oatmeal consistency, or sliced and stirred up together like a “fruit salad”. If it’s too moist or liquidy, it can make a real big mess once thawed. Thicker is better. Mix and Match them however you like – get creative! It’s about enrichment and fun. Most recipes are allergy-friendly.

Begin by giving ¼ cup – ½ cup, depending on the size of the dog. Keep in mind how much you are giving them – the calories will add up! I also recommend throwing it in the freezer for at least 6 hours to solidify, that way it can last longer for your dog.

You can add: treats, kibble, meat pieces to any of these. Either top with them or hide in the mixture as little “easter eggs” for your pupper to find.

Yes, I named them all after dogs I’ve known and worked with.

1. Autumn’s Harvest Snack

-Pumpkin Puree 

-Mashed Sweet Potato

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Diced Carrots

-Kibble bits

2. Baby’s Healthy Start

-Applesauce

-Cooked Rice

-Shredded Chicken

-Blueberries

3. Little Monster’s Nibbles

-Cooked Rice

-Chicken Broth

-Mashed Sweet Potato

-Peas & Carrots Mix

4. Kaylee’s Delight

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Diced Apple

-Rolled Oats

-Shredded Chicken

5. Harley’s Go-To

-Cheese 

-Pumpkin Puree

-Carrots

-Diced Apple

-Shredded Chicken

6. Zhadie’s Fave

-Sliced Strawberries

-Chicken Broth

-Cooked Rice

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Rolled Oats

7. Cocoa’s Shake

-Blueberries

-Applesauce

-Diced Carrots

-Plain Greek Yogurt

8. Love, Rosie & Charlie

-Cooked Rice

-Green Beans

-Cranberries

-Apple Chunks

-Capelin Whole Fish (treats)

9. Preferred By Tobi

-Pumpkin Puree

-Apple Slices

-Shredded Chicken

-Cooked Rice

10. Penyo’s Plate

-Cooked Rice

-Steak Strips

-Green Beans

-Mashed Sweet Potato

11. Only For Prince

-Crunchy Peanut Butter

-Blueberries

-Kibble

-Shredded Chicken

-Applesauce

12. Shadow’s Delight

-Mashed Banana

-Peanut Butter

-Shredded Chicken

-Peas & Carrots

13. Remy’s BurgerHead Special

-Ground Beef Patty (plain)

-Cubed Cheese

-Strawberry Slices

-Pumpkin Purée

Happy Snacking! 🐶

Published by Amy Noble on 8/14/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Service Animals, Training Tips

Carmel, Ca: Service Dogs: Paw’rt Two.

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Miss Paw’rt One? Read it Here!

(Feature Image: Custom Patch by Jubalee’s Vests & Patches)

You’ve determined that you could benefit from having a service dog. What’s next? You’ve got a few options.

You can look into getting a program dog. A program dog is one that has been raised in a program specifically designed to select and train service dogs for certain groups of people. You’ve got Guide dogs for the blind, as an example. These dogs have been specially selected from puppies and have been put through their extensive training program for up to two years, to learn how to do their job most effectively. Not all puppies make the cut, but the ones that do can run you upwards of $25k-$50k depending on where you get them and what for. In the case of Guide Dogs For The Blind, they are a free service run on donations and volunteers. However, in other programs there can be a large cost associated.

Don’t get discouraged. I know that’s a really high price tag! But keep reading.

There are breeders who have done a lot of work with their lines to produce service dog prospects. They are able to tell their new puppy owners which ones would do best as a service dog or therapy dog. Usually they pick one or several for you to choose as your SD puppy. These guys can go for normal breeder prices, or slightly higher, about $1k-$2k. If you go this route, do your due diligence on the breeder you choose to be sure that they have produced service dog quality dogs before you pay their prices. Some breeders are known for producing great SD’s.

Adopt! Shelters are full of wonderful dogs looking for homes that could fit your personality and lifestyle perfectly. I do caution you when doing this as there are many rescue dogs that come with baggage. If that’s the case you’ll end up spending a long time fixing problem behaviors before you can even consider training tasks or going in public. The low cost of the dog could be made up in behavior modification cost.

The second two options verify that you can owner-train your service dog. By definition it’s a dog that’s individually trained to mitigate your disability after all. So you can choose to do it yourself and train your own tasks. There is a lot of material on the web to help you do so.

Or you could hire me! I’ve trained medical, mobility, and psychiatric service dogs. Shameless plug.

As a general rule, your service dog will be considered a Service Dog in Training for around the first two years. It takes them time to mature or settle in to their new home and lifestyle. Obedience work can take several months, and tasks can take up to two years to become 100% automatic or “bomb proof”.

Which is the perfect time to mention this: If you see a Service Dog team out in public working – do not disturb the dog. Ever.

I know I just mentioned them being bomb proof – but you will never be able to tell which ones those are. And? Let’s face it, they’re dogs and they have personalities too. They’re working and need to be left alone.

There are some handlers who don’t mind talking to people if you have questions. Address the handler in a friendly manner and ask if you may ask about their dog. If they say no? Politely walk away. They are not being rude or mean, they are trying to go about their normal life. They may be having an issue with their health or disability that day. They have a service dog for a reason and not all reasons are visible or obvious to the outside world.

Do not ask to pet the dog. I’m just going to make that a rule you teach yourself and your children. Not all dogs need to be pet. Especially service dogs. The majority of them can get distracted and break concentration and could miss a mark or an alert which could be very dangerous or even life-threatening to their handler.

Teach your children to not address the dog. They may talk to you about the dog. But I would disallow them to make any noises or calls to the dog who is working. Again, this could be life-threatening to their handler! Teach them young, so we have more knowledgeable adults later on.

To have a service dog there are some general ethical guidelines to follow. The dog must be in perfect health and stature. They should not have any disabilities themselves. If they were in human form and needed assistance themselves, do not make them a service dog for you.

For mobility purposes, size definitely matters! Light mobility tasks require the dog be at least 33% of your body weight. Heavy mobility requires your dog be 50% your body weight. Keep that in mind when choosing a young dog.

These dogs begin work as a puppy (or as soon as you get them) can take up to two years to fully train and can work until they’re about 8 or 9 years old. So if you’re getting an adult shelter dog, understand that you may only get a few years of good work out of them before retiring them and beginning a new SD prospect.

Breed can play a role in longevity of their career as well. Some of your much bigger dogs don’t live nearly as long as medium or smaller dogs. So you might retire them at 6 or 7 instead. It is unethical to ask an old dog to work for up to 8 hours a day. They age faster than us and it’s hard on them.

And, yes, you can have more than one SD. Some handlers have disabilities that require the work of two dogs. Their tasks may be trained differently, and this is slightly more rare.

Lastly, any breed of dog can be a service dog. So don’t be too quick to laugh at that Pomeranian with a SD vest on. He may alert to an oncoming anxiety attack. You just never know.

Remember – not all disabilities are visible! And not all service dogs work in vests to label who they are. They are not required to and it gets hot in certain places!

Published by Amy Noble on 8/7/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist in Monterey Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. She has helped clients train Medical Alert, Mobility, and Psychiatric Service Animals, and is an AKC CGC Evaluator.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Service Animals, Training Tips

Carmel, Ca: Thinking of Registering a Service Animal? Here’s What You Should Know…

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…You can’t!

There is no such thing as a legitimate Online Doctors note, Registry or Certification for a pet to be a Service Animal.

Taken from the ADA’s website: “There are individuals and organizations that sell service animal certification or registration documents online. These documents do not convey any rights under the ADA and the Department of Justice does not recognize them as proof that the dog is a service animal.”

There are major differences between the three types of Service Animals: Emotional Support, Therapy and Service Animal.

The ADA defines a Service Animal as any dog, or other animal individually trained to provide assistance to an individual with a disability. Otherwise meaning, the only ones lawfully covered by the DoJ are Task-trained Service Animals.

Emotional Support Animals (ESAs) are NOT the same as Task-Trained Service Animals. They are not covered by the ADA or Department of Justice, they do NOT have public access rights to “go anywhere you want”. They are not a license to have dogs where you otherwise couldn’t, and it is illegal and unethical to claim an Emotional Support/Service Animal to get around breed restrictions in apartments. Additionally, faking a Service Dog team can land you up to a $5,000 fine in California.

Including fines and other legal issues that those will run into when bringing their pet dogs to Wal-Mart or the grocery store? They are putting real, legit Service Dog teams in danger simply by just being there. These teams are highly trained and have spent countless hours and money on becoming what they are, and getting to the point of working together in public. More than likely, the pet dog has not had nearly the same amount, nor type, of training and can distract, react to, or attack a legit Service Dog Team. 

Not all disabilities are visible. Sometimes a handler may need their dog to alert them to an impending seizure, a drop in blood pressure, an oncoming anxiety attack, someone or something approaching proximity boundaries. It could be anything, and it is nobody’s business what disabilities the handlers have except their own and their Service Animal’s. The point is, if the animal misses his target because he’s distracted by Pet Dog, Fido, barking at him? His handler could get very seriously injured or worse.

Remember, you don’t need to be the Fake Service Dog Police. If you suspect a pet dog is pretending to be a Service Dog, seek out the store’s manager and alert them to your suspicions. It is up to them to ask the two individual questions that grant public access.

Emotional Support Animals DO have their place, and play a very important role in providing comfort and support in their human’s lives. ESA’s are not required to have any specific training because they don’t perform any tasks. ESA’s can also be other animals such as cats, rabbits, or parrots, though those animals may not be allowed to travel on airlines.

If you feel you could benefit from an Emotional Support Animal; you are still required to get your personal doctor or therapist to sign a letter stating your need for the ESA, in order for you to receive Reasonable Accommodations for housing or travel. Your ESA letter does not grant you public access into non-pet friendly stores. They are seen as pets and can be a distraction to Service Dog Teams. 

Emotional Support Animals can, however, accompany you to pet-friendly places such as pet stores, some hardware stores, some banks, and some outdoor cafes. If you’re fortunate enough to live in places like the Bay Area – You’ve got Stanford Shopping Center and Santana Row. Monterey County is quite dog-friendly, especially Carmel-by-the-Sea. All of these places are very dog-friendly and encouraged! Most stores will even have water bowls and treats hidden in the back for all the good boys & girls.

Therapy Dogs and Mini horses have a special place as well. These are the animals that visit hospitals, homes and schools to provide comfort and love to their residents. They are there for petting, resting, talking and reading to. These animals DO have a certification process that they generally go through to become a volunteer team. Most hospitals & homes will not allow individual Therapy Dog teams to visit their premises unless they belong with a specific Therapy Dog organization. Many of these Therapy Dog Organizations will require the dogs go through CGC Certification before, and to remain current on for the duration of their service.

Therapy Dogs and Mini horses do NOT have public access rights. They are only permitted in their designated places of service, and pet-friendly businesses.

Dogs and Mini Horses are the two most used animals as Service Animals. They have many different jobs that range from Guide Dogs, to Medical Alert, Mobility, and Psychiatric Service Dogs. These are considered Task-Trained Service Animals.

Psychiatric Service Dogs are very different from Emotional Support Animals. PSD’s are individually trained in tasks to help mitigate their handlers disabilities. They may perform Deep Pressure Therapy (DPT) for anxiety attacks, alert to an oncoming panic attack from PTSD, perform Grounding, remind handler for medications, break dissociative episodes, wake from nightmares, etc. The amazing list of things goes on and the tasks are all individual to each handler team. These teams spend all day together. Some handlers need their Service Animals on an hour-by-hour, a day-by-day or a week-by-week basis. These animals are truly their daily side-kicks and Superheroes all rolled into one. 

Banner The Super Dog

Superheroes indeed, I wanted to share some Service Animals that I follow on social media. This girl’s name says it all: “Banner, The Super Dog”. What I love most about her is that she’s a Husky that has been very well trained by her handler. She gets to be a husky, and also takes her job very seriously. And who doesn’t enjoy a cosplaying dog?

Miniature Horses can also perform similar Service jobs; Vision Guide, Medical Alert, and they are a great option for handlers who may need more mobility support than a dog can give.

Flirty The Miniature Service Horse

One such Miniature horse I follow on Social Media is Flirty. She’s sassy and adorable and I really enjoy how open and honest her mama is. Her handler does more than her share of spreading education and information about Service Animals. She gives her readers a glimpse into the life of someone with invisible disabilities, dealing with the public, and the training and daily care of her service animal all while dealing with “real life” stuff. Flirty is her life line and it’s often shared, moments she has needed Flirty to jump into action to do her job. They are a great team, and you can see the love between them. 

This is only part of the information I wanted to share. I created a whole second blog to cover the rest. Read Paw’rt Two Here!

Published by Amy Noble on 7/31/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist in Monterey Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. She has helped clients train Medical Alert, Mobility, and Psychiatric Service Animals, and is an AKC CGC Evaluator.

Birds, Cats, Dogs, Rabbits, summer

San Jose, Ca: Surviving the Summer Heatwaves

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There is a heat wave expected to hit the Bay Area this weekend, so I thought I’d post about how to prepare, what to do, and how to survive the heat with your fur babies.

First and foremost; Unless you are taking a trip to the vet, or similar destination from point A to point B where your animal is expected at point B as well? If it is hotter than 83° outside, don’t bring your pets in the car. Anywhere. If it’s a trip to the drive-thru and your AC is working beautifully? By all means – we can come up with exceptions to the rule all day long. The point is, animals don’t belong in hot cars on warm days during the summer. And if it’s going to be that warm, it’s likely that the asphalt of every parking lot and every sidewalk to your destination is going to be pretty dang warm also.

Check the ground! I like to err on the side of caution and leave any outside trips for earlier in the day, or later in the evening. Asphalt soaks in the heat from the direct sun, then it radiates back up and one thing that many people don’t consider is the fact that their dogs are only 1-2 ft (give or take) off the ground, right where all that heat is hanging out.

My rule to everybody is that if you cannot place your hand on the asphalt for more than 5 seconds it’s too hot to take your pup, who’s wearing a fur coat and walking on bare feet, out. If you can’t tell by placing your palm down, place the back of your hand, if you still cannot tell, take off your shoes and stand on the sidewalk that’s been in the direct sun for more than an hour – that will give you a really good idea of the temperature. Save walks for the evening / early morning.

Or, forget walks altogether! There’s nothing that will happen to your dog if you give them a few days off because it’s continually 85°+ outside. Heat stroke is real and can still affect them, even if you walk them early in the day. Consecutive hot days mean being lazy inside, eating frozen treats!

Utilize your Kong toys and your freezer. Prepare a few Pupsicles filled with Peanut butter and greek yogurt, or chicken broth and diced carrots. Plug the little hole at the top, fill them up and toss in the freezer for a cool treat your pup can enjoy during the warm afternoons. Freeze some water bottles full of water so they can play with those to keep busy or spend some energy.

Be sure your water bowls are refilled and cleaned out. I never leave water buckets or bowls in direct sun very long. Some sunlight is good for sterilizing, but hot water is not fun nor safe to drink. Remember our dogs’ temperatures run higher than ours. Bring the water into the shade, or leave it under an umbrella and always check it before you let your pooches out to drink from it. Personally, we have water bowls inside and in crates. There is one outside but it gets dumped and refilled probably 6-10 times daily.

Do you have a hoppity bunny in your life? The hot months are the WORST time for a bunny rabbit. In nature they dig deep holes in the ground and hunker down where the sunlight never penetrates and it stays nice and cool. They absolutely do not do well in temperatures over 80°. If you have a rabbit that lives outside, bring it in. Freeze a water bottle for them to lie on, put them where there is air flow and fans. If you are unable to bring them in from the heat, turning a mister on in the yard and giving them frozen water bottles will save their lives. I have many tragic stories of hard lessons learned that I don’t wish for anyone to repeat. Bring the bunnies in! Luckily for us, Monterey county doesn’t get nearly as hot as the Bay Area, our Rini girl happily lives in her own room where it never reaches over 70 degrees.

Birds and Cats are probably the easiest to care for. Birds have insulating feathers that keep them warm when it’s cold and cool when it’s hot. They may be less active and a bit more quiet (not in our house). But if it’s really warm for extended periods of time. Giving them baths makes them feel good. Keeping them in a well-ventilated room is best also.

Cats will find a cool hiding spot and wait out the heat. Some of them will lay right in the sunbeams blazing through your window. Cats do what they want. Just make sure they have water and they’re fine. If you have an outside cat, be sure you provide lots of shade and a way to get out of the heat. Many kitties run up trees, thinking they’re heading towards some shade only to be stuck up in the direct sun and hot air, stressing themselves into faster dehydrating. Best to bring them in as well.

All in all, head inside, turn on the AC (or fans), get the Netflix or Amazon Prime going and grab some snacks for you and the fur kids – wait out the hottest part of the day and enjoy yourselves when it’s cooler out.

Looking for activities to do? Check out my Summertime Outings post!

Published by Amy Noble on 7/24/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dogs

Toys, Play Dates and Pack Mates

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Dogs love to play, right? And they love their toys! So it’s natural to think that involving toys in a play session is totally normal and okay to do with multiple dogs. And it is, in some situations.

Toys can be a great addition to your doggy socials, but they can also be a source for resource guarding in some dogs. Which can lead to them having words or worse, with another unknowing dog who maybe wants to try to play with them, with that toy.

As a general rule; if I am inviting a friend dog over for the first time to hang out with my social boy who loves to play? I pick up all the toys and put them away. A new play date should be just that, a date between the pups. This keeps the environment as neutral as possible and allows the dogs to figure each other’s personality and play styles out. They focus attention on each other and will have a good time! I will continue to not allow toys between friends until they’ve built a good solid relationship with one another – after several play sessions, then I will slowly introduce toys to their dates. Which I’ll describe down below.

So, what about pack mates? The way that I have pack mates integrate has many steps and toys are a step in their bonding process that comes in time. Let’s say you started off with one dog. You have that pup for about a year or two and they’ve got their set of toys; some are favorites, most are fun, some are “eh”. Now you bring puppy into the mix. Puppy obviously needs TONS of toys and stimulation to keep them happy and nondestructive. But I don’t allow puppy to just come in and take over older dogs toys. That can cause undue stress in your pack and could lead to problems later on. Puppy gets their own area to acclimate / potty train / stay out of trouble / and play with THEIR set of toys. Baby toys. Teething toys that are softer for their baby mouths, etc. In some cases the older dog will bring some of their toys to the puppy – and those are the ones I start with.

Just like a play date, I have my new puppies play with my older dogs without anything around. Just for the first few days. I don’t allow full integration right away, it’s just how I do it, so when the dogs do hang out (and that is most of the day – when I’m there to monitor), they figure each other out and baby begins to learn their place in the family. This also strengthens the bond between dogs because, again, they only have each other to focus on. When I’m not watching and they go back to their puppy pen, everybody gets their own toys back.

This lasts maybe the first week. After that, I begin to add toys to their play. When I do, I bring out twice as many as there are dogs. The toys I bring out are the ones big dog brought to little dog to share through the pen, the bland toys, the “eh” toys. In other words I bring out all the toys that don’t mean much to the big dog. I keep their favorites up until MUCH later in their relationship. Tug toys, ropes, long floppy toys, things that they can both enjoy together and both have enough room to hold onto it at once. This minimized any jealousy or upset misunderstandings between the two. Gradually they get more and more toys to play with together, as they learn to share.

If I ever see someone getting possessive over an item I will take it and claim as mine. This keeps order in the pack, feelings from getting hurt, and prevents grudges from being built. Whoever that toy belonged to originally, I will return it to them when the puppy goes back up.

All of this doesn’t take long. They learn to share pretty quickly given plenty of time to do so. I rotate toys often and bring new ones out to keep things interesting between them. Also when you have multiple dogs, your toys get destroyed that much faster!

So what about a fully integrated pack and new toys? I ALWAYS buy multiple and always give them to the whole pack at the same time. This way they see it as all of theirs not just singularly theirs. When they receive the new toys together – they’re more likely to share them equally. Always remember though, if you’re giving something new, have an equal number of new toys to dogs, or equal +1 is better!

Dogs

The Doggy Wrench

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“He’s YOUR dog, not mine!” “He won’t listen to me!” “You’re the only one that matters to her” “She doesn’t even like me.”

Have you ever said any of these phrases? Or heard your partner say them to you? It’s not at all uncommon for the doggy wrench to be thrown in the middle of a relationship. Some of the longest relationships have had their rough patches due to the dog. You are not alone!

I’ve had many people declare that I saved their marriage after coming in and helping them sort out their puppy problems. Sometimes it’s a basic behavior fix, and other times it may take a different perspective on the part of the humans in the house.

Look, fundamentally, you ALL are a part of your dog’s pack. You may not all have the same relationship with one another, but everybody living in the house is seen as a pack member to the dog. Whether or not they listen to you and/or “like” you, often has a lot to do with how you are thinking about them and the amount of interaction (or lack thereof) with them.

I tell my clients (and even family members) that all it really takes is 5 minutes a day to begin to build a bond with the family dog. They don’t listen to you? Grab a bag of treats and have them earn some through basic obedience or even tricks and games. Take turns filling the food bowl and placing it down for the dog – that way they can see that you provide for them as well. Small changes like this can have a HUGE impact on how your dog views you!

Sometimes, all it takes is finding something you like about the dog, maybe their ears flop over when they look at you a certain way, the way their eyes sparkle when they wake up in the morning and greet you, their coat is extra shiny in the sun, maybe they’re really cute when they get a squeaky ball and want to play. By finding things you enjoy about the dog that you can focus on, you’ll begin to shift your body language and energy towards them – and they will notice and respond with similar positive interactions with you!

It should be noted that if there are more severe behaviors happening such as biting, or attacking a family member – that should be addressed by a Behaviorist for more in-depth training and behavior modification.

Dogs

What Mighty Big Teeth You Have!

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When people find out I specialize in severe behavioral issues and aggression in dogs, they have a LOT of questions. One of the first that’s always asked?

“Have you ever been bitten?” 

Jack Russell Terrier Snarling

After the usual, “Oh yeah, by plenty of puppies, teething stage is real fun” answer, I give them what they want.

“Sorta”

Yep, sorta. I have been full on bitten, only once, by my own dog when she was in full-on Protection Mode and had shut down all her senses except for what was in front of her. All I got was a few puncture spots across my palm, back of my hand, and fingers. It healed fast. I survived with nothing to show. She knew she made the wrong choice as soon as her mouth hit my hand, and she immediately corrected herself and didn’t chomp down completely.

There was a time when a dog specifically went after me, though unsuccessful. Actually, as I write this, I am remembering several times a dog specifically went at me, with the intent to bite me. I mean, come on, that’s my job, so, they sure do try! There was the American Eskimo, the White Shepherd Puppy (2, actually), the Pit Bull, the Border Collie (oh man she wanted to eat my face off), the Australian Cattle Dog, and several small dogs like Min Pins & Chihuahuas. These are completely different situations, and a different type of intended bite. Unlike Adie’s immediately-corrected “Reaction Bite”. These others would’ve been full-force bites. And none of them ever got me. So, no – I’ve never been bit, though many have tried. 🙂

But, that always raises another question:

pibble“What’s the dog bite force pressure? Don’t Pit Bulls have, like, the strongest bite and lock jaw?” 

Hold up…

First of all – Let me dispel something real quick for you:

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS LOCK JAW IN ANY DOG BREED! 

I know, it might be surprising, but you’ll get through this. In fact, Pit Bulls, meaning the all-inclusive 3 bully breeds – American Pit Bull Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, don’t even have the strongest bite, of the recorded popular dog breeds that were tested. More on that in a minute.

Now, the animal that DOES have the capability of “Lock Jaw” is you. Yep, you. It’s part of something called TMJ. It’s no fun, my sister has suffered from it since we were kids. You don’t want it.

The reason behind the Pit Bull Lock Jaw myth is because of the amount of muscle that they have in their heads. In most dogs the muscles between the jaw, head, and neck have some kind of separation. Whereas the Bully breeds muscular system is bigger – and all attached. From their jaw to the top of the head, and down the neck. That’s a LOT of muscle, and what makes them so hard-headed, literally. (Great dogs though!) And had a part in giving them their bad reputation. 🙁

Basically bite force varies from breed to breed, and even dog by dog, like a fingerprint. Just as every dog learns differently and has a different personality, their own personal bite force strength will vary. But that won’t stop scientists from giving you a breakdown anyway!

For those that are interested and want to learn more.
Here’s your site, that also quotes DVM sources:
http://www.pbrc.net/mediacenter/mediaqa.html

National Geographic did several tests on bite force pressure. They not only tested dogs, but included other animals – and humans. The results are interesting.

For the sake of comparison, average human (Or Zombie, I guess) bite force pressure is 120 pounds of pressure per square inch.

Pit bulls came in at around 235 pounds psi.
German Shepherds earned 238 pounds.
Rottweiler tested at 328 psi, making it the highest of all the dog breeds.

rottweiler-jaws

Check out that gorgeous mouth!
The Rottweiler jaw, ladies & gentlemen.

However, there are new rumors floating around that the Mastiff has 552 psi, and the Doberman comes in at 600 (right…). IF those rumors are true (because they weren’t tested specifically, and lets still consider #context) that would make the Dobie have the strongest bite force. But, for science sake, and because #facts… The current winner is the Rottweiler.

Sorry to burst some bubbles, or back up the OTHER spouses. I do that a lot, in my line of work. It’s what I’m here for, folks! 🙂

crocodileOh, those other animals?
Lions & White Sharks come in at 600 lbs pressure (sorry Dobies, not looking good for your story… I’d believe a Rhodesian Ridgeback over you guys).
Hyenas at 1,000 lbs.
Snapping Turtles at 1,000 lbs.
And Crocodiles are 2,500 lbs psi.
That sounds… really painful…

I also decided to look up my birds because those guys HURT. All I could find was somewhere between 500-700 pounds of pressure. Not sure how reliable that is, but I know that a Macaw can crush your bone if you piss it off enough…

Moral of the story, folks?

Animals are Friends. And? They can all bite harder than you <3