Tag Archives: Behaviorist

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs

CARMEL, CA: The Way And The Reason I Work.

1 Comment

Someone asked me recently, “What makes YOU so special?” And, honestly? I love this question! There is something different about me and it does contribute to how and why I work so well with animals – and humans!

I’m a very calm, confident person and I give off that energy to those around me. Dogs are pack animals and appreciate a leader who knows “the way out of the woods,” so-to-speak. A leader who can handle any situation with confidence and ease – so they don’t have to. 

Energy! It’s all about the energy that I give off and even use to communicate with.

I also have a very good grasp of emotions happening; inside of me or within the people around me. I tend to keep myself very positive-neutral and under control – which translates to “leader” in dogs. The confidence I have, and my restraint from having emotional reactions come from years of my own work in self-reflection and understanding the brain and body coherence. 

If a dog is acutely aware of their present self and physical body position / motion, why can’t we be the same? It’s because we’ve become distracted, it’s been trained out of us. I have learned to enhance and utilize it to work for me, with animals, children, and the non-verbal in general. 

And Yes, I do use this same form of self-energy control and distribution to communicate as well. This is a bit more tricky to explain and teach; however, it’s something that we are all capable of. Everybody has the potential – it’s in our code. It’s the same as your gut feelings, your intuition – your Spidey-Senses! You’ve even experienced it before without being aware. Picture this…

You’ve just gotten out of a late night class. The campus is empty and dark. When you showed up earlier, the parking lot was full – so you had to park in the far back. As you pass one of the buildings you see a dark figure leaning against the wall, nobody else is around and suddenly you feel very anxious to get to your car. Your pace quickens, your footsteps pounding in your ears. Your breathing becomes quick and shallow. Your lonely car out there in the lot, by itself in the dark seems to be so far away; it feels like someone is looming right over your shoulder – about to grab you! 

The very next morning news gets to you that a building on your campus was broken into. The very same building you saw the figure the night prior. You felt something was wrong, you knew something was off about that place, that person, that time. You don’t know why or how, but you acted on that feeling by getting to your car quickly, your brain pumping your body full of adrenaline to give you the strength and speed to complete your one and only task of survival. 

It’s instinctual and can be fine-tuned to your advantage whenever you need it.  

Alternatively – You’ve just walked into a new school on day 1. You look around the room for an empty seat, trying not to be noticed. When you lock eyes with a new stranger and they smile. It’s as if a light has shone upon them; all your nerves disappear, you smile easily and suddenly you feel relaxed and excited to start this new year. The two of you have now been the best of friends (or lovers) for 25 years.

I just happened to notice that animals responded much quicker and easier to it all than people did. Though people absolutely can and do – just as well! 

I have been particularly sensitive to these types of moments and feelings since I was a very young child. It’s a silent language that we all are capable of speaking. I just happen to have practiced quietly, internally, since I can remember. Being a child whose vision depended on being extremely observant of my environment, situations, motions, emotions, behaviors and the people around me certainly helped my case. I had to rely on those senses and energy shifts and changes to tell me how to react and adapt in my life.

Energy shifts are the way of animal language:
The deer NEVER needs to walk up to the wolf and ask if he is a friend. He just knows. Zebra know the exact moment to run; the moment the lion has chosen to chase. Instinctual energies have a very palpable feel to them, and as soon as you learn to recognize and read them, is when you can be several steps ahead of the creature you’re working with. 

I do my best to teach this to every one of my clients.

Every time I’ve had a dog on lead who’s decided to attack another, I feel something like a pulse of energy, almost like a puff of air that hits me first. My reflexes and reaction time must be precise to ensure the safety of everybody involved. So I stop it before it starts, or gets too far.

If I start to lose a dog’s attention and they go dancing away, I can picture and *feel* something like an elastic band or cord attached between us, that encourages them to come back by tugging at them to return to me.

That is how I was always able to catch dogs running loose in the neighborhood. 

Now you see, there is something different about me, something special that I have that others may not. I work on many levels with my animals and people, so that everyone benefits and their lives improve. That’s my ultimate goal – to improve the lives of others through transforming relationships with their animals. <3

Published by Amy Noble on 10/23/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.


Dog Training, Dogs, Puppies, Training Tips

Noms For Kong’s – Recipes for Your Pups

Leave a comment

A tool that I often use and highly recommend is the classic Kong toy. They have different durabilities for different types of bites that’ll be chomping on them. (Side Note: If Biteforce is interesting to you? Check THIS out!) They have puppy Kongs, regular, medium, tough, and mega tough! If you have a big chewer – get the tougher ones! They are color-coded as well, to make them easily findable in a lineup.

I always kept several black “Mega Chewer” Kongs around for my previous, 100lb dogs. It took a bit for them as puppies to really get into using them, but once they learned what they were, it was something they got multiple times a week!

Kongs can be a life-saver on the ears (barkers), on your furniture (destructive chewers), can ease anxiety, and keep a bored puppy busy for a while! They are a great tool and toy that I think every doggy household should have several, of. I like to keep 2-3 per dog, especially puppies, so that way one is being used, one is soaking, and the other is ready to go!

Filling them with something tasty is just as important as the toy itself. That’s what gets them to find interest in the first place, it also provides added enrichment to their lives. Sure, peanut butter is a good idea and easy to do, but don’t you think variety is more fun? Keep them guessing! Not only are these recipes full of different tastes and textures, your dogs will also be getting added nutrients too!

Just like children, dogs will have likes and dislikes. Some dogs love broccoli where others can’t stand it. I have even known dogs who would refuse steak! My advice is to start small. Don’t make a huge batch of anything until you know your dog will enjoy it, and not have any tummy issues with it. Ease into anything new you give your dog, and if your dog has any medical issues please ask your vet before you attempt to give them anything new to ensure it won’t conflict with their health.

If you use Peanut Butter, please only use *Natural* Peanut Butter. Ingredients should read: Peanuts and Salt. That’s it. There are several brands out there that are in your normal grocery stores that carry Natural Peanut Butter. The other brands that have additives put ingredients such as sugars or flavorings, and xylitol which are not good for your dog to consume.

All of these recipes can be given either blended up to a thick milkshake or oatmeal consistency, or sliced and stirred up together like a “fruit salad”. If it’s too moist or liquidy, it can make a real big mess once thawed. Thicker is better. Mix and Match them however you like – get creative! It’s about enrichment and fun. Most recipes are allergy-friendly.

Begin by giving ¼ cup – ½ cup, depending on the size of the dog. Keep in mind how much you are giving them – the calories will add up! I also recommend throwing it in the freezer for at least 6 hours to solidify, that way it can last longer for your dog.

You can add: treats, kibble, meat pieces to any of these. Either top with them or hide in the mixture as little “easter eggs” for your pupper to find.

Yes, I named them all after dogs I’ve known and worked with.

1. Autumn’s Harvest Snack

-Pumpkin Puree 

-Mashed Sweet Potato

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Diced Carrots

-Kibble bits

2. Baby’s Healthy Start

-Applesauce

-Cooked Rice

-Shredded Chicken

-Blueberries

3. Little Monster’s Nibbles

-Cooked Rice

-Chicken Broth

-Mashed Sweet Potato

-Peas & Carrots Mix

4. Kaylee’s Delight

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Diced Apple

-Rolled Oats

-Shredded Chicken

5. Harley’s Go-To

-Cheese 

-Pumpkin Puree

-Carrots

-Diced Apple

-Shredded Chicken

6. Zhadie’s Fave

-Sliced Strawberries

-Chicken Broth

-Cooked Rice

-Plain Greek Yogurt

-Rolled Oats

7. Cocoa’s Shake

-Blueberries

-Applesauce

-Diced Carrots

-Plain Greek Yogurt

8. Love, Rosie & Charlie

-Cooked Rice

-Green Beans

-Cranberries

-Apple Chunks

-Capelin Whole Fish (treats)

9. Preferred By Tobi

-Pumpkin Puree

-Apple Slices

-Shredded Chicken

-Cooked Rice

10. Penyo’s Plate

-Cooked Rice

-Steak Strips

-Green Beans

-Mashed Sweet Potato

11. Only For Prince

-Crunchy Peanut Butter

-Blueberries

-Kibble

-Shredded Chicken

-Applesauce

12. Shadow’s Delight

-Mashed Banana

-Peanut Butter

-Shredded Chicken

-Peas & Carrots

13. Remy’s BurgerHead Special

-Ground Beef Patty (plain)

-Cubed Cheese

-Strawberry Slices

-Pumpkin Purée

Happy Snacking! 🐶

Published by Amy Noble on 8/14/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Service Animals, Training Tips

Carmel, Ca: Service Dogs: Paw’rt Two.

Leave a comment

Miss Paw’rt One? Read it Here!

(Feature Image: Custom Patch by Jubalee’s Vests & Patches)

You’ve determined that you could benefit from having a service dog. What’s next? You’ve got a few options.

You can look into getting a program dog. A program dog is one that has been raised in a program specifically designed to select and train service dogs for certain groups of people. You’ve got Guide dogs for the blind, as an example. These dogs have been specially selected from puppies and have been put through their extensive training program for up to two years, to learn how to do their job most effectively. Not all puppies make the cut, but the ones that do can run you upwards of $25k-$50k depending on where you get them and what for. In the case of Guide Dogs For The Blind, they are a free service run on donations and volunteers. However, in other programs there can be a large cost associated.

Don’t get discouraged. I know that’s a really high price tag! But keep reading.

There are breeders who have done a lot of work with their lines to produce service dog prospects. They are able to tell their new puppy owners which ones would do best as a service dog or therapy dog. Usually they pick one or several for you to choose as your SD puppy. These guys can go for normal breeder prices, or slightly higher, about $1k-$2k. If you go this route, do your due diligence on the breeder you choose to be sure that they have produced service dog quality dogs before you pay their prices. Some breeders are known for producing great SD’s.

Adopt! Shelters are full of wonderful dogs looking for homes that could fit your personality and lifestyle perfectly. I do caution you when doing this as there are many rescue dogs that come with baggage. If that’s the case you’ll end up spending a long time fixing problem behaviors before you can even consider training tasks or going in public. The low cost of the dog could be made up in behavior modification cost.

The second two options verify that you can owner-train your service dog. By definition it’s a dog that’s individually trained to mitigate your disability after all. So you can choose to do it yourself and train your own tasks. There is a lot of material on the web to help you do so.

Or you could hire me! I’ve trained medical, mobility, and psychiatric service dogs. Shameless plug.

As a general rule, your service dog will be considered a Service Dog in Training for around the first two years. It takes them time to mature or settle in to their new home and lifestyle. Obedience work can take several months, and tasks can take up to two years to become 100% automatic or “bomb proof”.

Which is the perfect time to mention this: If you see a Service Dog team out in public working – do not disturb the dog. Ever.

I know I just mentioned them being bomb proof – but you will never be able to tell which ones those are. And? Let’s face it, they’re dogs and they have personalities too. They’re working and need to be left alone.

There are some handlers who don’t mind talking to people if you have questions. Address the handler in a friendly manner and ask if you may ask about their dog. If they say no? Politely walk away. They are not being rude or mean, they are trying to go about their normal life. They may be having an issue with their health or disability that day. They have a service dog for a reason and not all reasons are visible or obvious to the outside world.

Do not ask to pet the dog. I’m just going to make that a rule you teach yourself and your children. Not all dogs need to be pet. Especially service dogs. The majority of them can get distracted and break concentration and could miss a mark or an alert which could be very dangerous or even life-threatening to their handler.

Teach your children to not address the dog. They may talk to you about the dog. But I would disallow them to make any noises or calls to the dog who is working. Again, this could be life-threatening to their handler! Teach them young, so we have more knowledgeable adults later on.

To have a service dog there are some general ethical guidelines to follow. The dog must be in perfect health and stature. They should not have any disabilities themselves. If they were in human form and needed assistance themselves, do not make them a service dog for you.

For mobility purposes, size definitely matters! Light mobility tasks require the dog be at least 33% of your body weight. Heavy mobility requires your dog be 50% your body weight. Keep that in mind when choosing a young dog.

These dogs begin work as a puppy (or as soon as you get them) can take up to two years to fully train and can work until they’re about 8 or 9 years old. So if you’re getting an adult shelter dog, understand that you may only get a few years of good work out of them before retiring them and beginning a new SD prospect.

Breed can play a role in longevity of their career as well. Some of your much bigger dogs don’t live nearly as long as medium or smaller dogs. So you might retire them at 6 or 7 instead. It is unethical to ask an old dog to work for up to 8 hours a day. They age faster than us and it’s hard on them.

And, yes, you can have more than one SD. Some handlers have disabilities that require the work of two dogs. Their tasks may be trained differently, and this is slightly more rare.

Lastly, any breed of dog can be a service dog. So don’t be too quick to laugh at that Pomeranian with a SD vest on. He may alert to an oncoming anxiety attack. You just never know.

Remember – not all disabilities are visible! And not all service dogs work in vests to label who they are. They are not required to and it gets hot in certain places!

Published by Amy Noble on 8/7/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist in Monterey Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. She has helped clients train Medical Alert, Mobility, and Psychiatric Service Animals, and is an AKC CGC Evaluator.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Positive Reinforcement Training, Puppies, Training Tips

Monterey, Ca: Potty Training with Puppies

Leave a comment

Puppies are some of the cutest little beings on the planet! They’re soft, and lovable, playful, bouncy, and so easy to pick up and snuggle.

Quick! What’s the first puppy con that comes to mind?! (Except for biting/chewing 😉) Yup, Potty Training!

The number one asked question of every new dog owner – And number one concern of every parent of every child whose ever mentioned the word “puppy”.

It can be a frustrating time, sometimes longer than anticipated, or it can be smooth and easy. I’ve experienced it all different ways and as I say to everyone? Every dog is different.

My King Shepherd and Malamute were the easiest two – Done in just a weekend. Next easiest would be Kiba our current Husky/WGSD; though in his favor – he was already about 7 months old when we got him and had already been getting potty trained in his foster home (Thanks Sara!). Our Border Collie kid, Raizo and my past Husky Prince tie for the most difficult. Thankfully for me, my parents did most of Prince’s training. And coincidentally – these two were trained using the same technique, paper (pad) training.

Let’s get into it – Which way is best? Easiest? Most effective? The answer, as always is “That depends…”

It depends on how much time you have, how quickly your puppy learns, how routinely you live, and even the type of environment you live in. You could train to go on puppy pads and eventually move them closer to the door and outside. You could use the good old frequent trips outside to show them where to go. There are grass patches now that act as doggy litter boxes that can be effective. An actual doggy litter box with absorbent puppy-safe litter.

What matters most is being consistent and having a set routine. Everybody benefits from having a regular routine of the time you wake, when you exercise and have meals, work, and the time you close it all down for the night to sleep. Just to do it all over again several days a week.

Having a puppy on a set meal routine for instance, will encourage regular, fairly predictable trips out to potty. Having a walk each day will also help keep their systems running regular.

Your rules of thumb are; Every time they wake up from sleep or a nap, potty. Every time after a meal from immediately to up to 30 minutes later, potty. After a big play session of running, zooming and bouncing, potty. Essentially, they go about every 30 mins to an hour. You can do the leg work and take them out to their spot to encourage them to go – but be sure to throw a puppy potty party after! You want them to feel good about where they go!

If they go inside on the carpet, just remember that they’re learning. We wouldn’t get angry at our infants for soiling their diapers. Don’t get angry at the puppy.

Puppies aren’t completely in tuned with their bodies. It takes a bit for them to recognize patterns of the physical feelings and sensations, what they mean, and how to take care of it. When you do your due diligence and pay close attention you will start to notice their signs and it is up to you to guide your little one to the correct spot.

Things to look for: Sudden sniffing in circles, tail held high, sometimes stiffened at the base, then you’ll see concentration show up on their face – bring them to their spot!

Sometimes the act of stopping them to bring them out can startle them and then their bodies shut down and they don’t need to go anymore. That’s ok, try again in another 10 minutes or so.

Reward, reward, reward! That is what will train them faster than anything else. Have some special “potty party” treats that you give when they’ve successfully gone in the right spot.

Just remember it takes time, patience and proactive consistency!

Published by Amy Noble on 7/17/19

Amy is an Animal Behaviorist and Dog Trainer in Monterey, Ca, with over Thirty years of experience and active knowledge working with animals. Amy’s love for every dog, cat, horse, rabbit, human (and more!) that she trains truly shows in her work and dedication.

Dog Behavior, Dog Training, Dogs, Training Tips

Jump Pups and What To Do

2 Comments

Is this a familiar sight? That blur coming right for your face, at full speed? It can happen anytime. Going out for a walk, coming in the front door, even walking back into the room after being in another for 5 minutes. Maybe you don’t get this view often, but all of your guests do?

Jumping is one of the most common problems of all dog families. Especially with younger dog members. They love to jump! But why?

Firstly, let’s look at the structure of the dog’s face. (And what a cute face that is!) Eyes together facing forward, their nose is under/between their eyes, and their mouth is under their nose. Ears are on the sides/top of the head.

Now, what’s the structure of our face? Eyes together facing forward, our nose is under/between our eyes, and our mouth is under our nose. Ears are on the sides/top of the head. Kind of the same huh?

Dogs communicate through body language and a little bit through scent. They observe us a LOT as young puppies to learn how to read us, our facial expressions, and what we smell like throughout the day.

One of the first things that packs do with one another, is run up to members who may have gone off for a bit and sniff their mouths. This is a survival instinct that’s formed at birth. “If you smell like you’ve eaten something, that means I get to eat too!” The young puppy thinks – and it never goes away. Food = Survival.

Other than our faces, we look like upright-walking, naked dogs. Except our furry canine companions treat us as family and see us as their pack – so naturally they want to do the same thing instinct tells them to. Explore that face! They are able to read if you’re ok, came back safe, if you’ve run into any other naked upright walking dogs, and what you’ve consumed all day. They want the interaction and closeness, and the only way to achieve that, is to jump up at you.

When they’re tiny, we tend to accidentally encourage the jumping. Because five pound Fido looks so cute with his ears flopping all over the place, tail going a million miles a second! So we squeal and coo and pick them up and cuddle them and tell them how much we missed them too! So then our domestic dogs learn that jumping up means love and safety and fun!

Some breeds are more likely to jump than others of course! And if your pup shows a lot of interest in jumping, there are so many things to do with them to hone that skill!

But, how do we STOP it? Yes, some dogs love to jump up more for fun than communication, and others have just built a very naughty habit of doing so.

One – walk towards them. In fact, march towards them! While saying “off!” When puppies are little they don’t want to get stepped on (we’ve all done it, don’t feel bad! How else can they learn to steer clear?), so when you march at them you’re making a big point that your body is moving THIS way, and they better watch out! As they bounce out of the way, do tell them how wonderful they are.

Two – If you’ve got your treat bag handy, grab a handful as you’re walking in the front door. Jumpin Jasper darts towards you, just before he can make it – it rains treats on the ground all around him, in between the both of you. Tell him to find them all! And suddenly you’ve distracted your pooch from pouncing!

Three – Teaching a very strong Wait or Sit Stay of course can always help. Giving them something else to think of before they get the satisfaction of making contact with your legs or stomach or privates even!

When they’re little and bouncing around and trying to get your attention, don’t give it until they’ve stopped jumping! Then they’ll see that patience gives them that needed contact & interaction.

Having guests stop by? Putting Lady on a leash will help control the situation, tell your guests to ignore her until she stops hopping around. As soon as she sits and waits, she suddenly appears and gets recognized by the newcomers! (The treat rain can help with guests too!)

So what if you’ve got a very agile jumper? You want to do something with it and get involved in doggy sports?

Several breeds are famous for their jumping skills. Malinois are probably some of the best jumpers I’ve seen, scaling walls and climbing ladders. We have one in the family (pictured above) and I’ve watched him hop 4 foot fences like they’re ankle high. Australian Cattle Dogs, Australian Shepherds, Border Collies, Shelties, Dalmatians, the list goes on. If they’ve got the build and stamina for it, why not channel it?

Some great sports to do with your jumpers: Agility, fly ball, frisbee or disc dog, and dock jumping for the water lovers. Whatever you decide to do – be sure you introduce slowly and always make it fun!

Cats, Dog Behavior, Dogs, Holidays, summer

Happy Fourth of July! Fireworks and your fur babies.

Leave a comment

Fourth of July can mean family time, BBQ’s, swimming pools, and beaches. The beautiful display of fireworks celebrating our independence, closing the evening out with spectacular shapes and colors displayed all over the night sky. The perfect midsummer celebration to create magical memories that last a lifetime.

But for some, it can mean stress, anxiety, fear, loud noises, over-stimulation, confusion and the sense of being under attack from above.

So what should you do if your pet is fearful? Plan ahead! If you know your pets don’t or won’t like the fireworks, there are plenty of preventative measures you can take.

Most importantly, if you have an outside cat who likes to cruise in and out during the day and evening. Bring them in. Set up a room or bathroom with their food, litter box, a cat tree or a bed to hide in / under. Put them in the room with some new toys, catnip, and some yummies – and close the door. Keeping them contained in a room is much safer for them than trying to brave the outdoors when confusion hits. I recently mentioned to someone: “I’d much rather have a cat who is pissed off at me for locking them up, than to have to bury my cat because they tried to find cover in a panic and got hit by a car.” Hurting your pets pride or ego is 100% curable. Keep that in mind.

Setting up a quiet, comfortable space for kitty to spend the evening is going to be your best bet for keeping them happy and safe!! Don’t take any chances. Keep them in.

I have heard many, many horror stories about dogs getting out of the yard, jumping fences, chewing through fences, breaking through glass windows, all for getting away from fireworks.

My advice for them would be quite similar as for cats. Bring them in where it’s safe. If they are kennel dogs, setting the kennel up in a bedroom with the radio or TV playing for some noise, some chew bones or filled frozen Kong’s to keep them busy – and something to take their stress out on. Close windows and doors to help dampen the sound, maybe turn on a fan to keep the air flowing. All of these things will help to set a calm environment.

If your dog is exceptionally anxious or nervous, I would suggest NOT leaving them alone. Keep them with you, hang out at home, or board them with a friend they are comfortable with where you know they’ll be contained, safe, and with others. In most of the Animal world there is safety in numbers! Being with the pack and watching them handle the noise helps a nervous dog tremendously!

Being in a pack of dogs that are all friends and being able to play can help many dogs make it through the fourth also! Years ago I would have puppy parties at my house. We would take all the nervous dogs and have them in mid-play before the fireworks in our neighborhood began. That way they were otherwise distracted during the event and then too busy to even care.

What helps the most is being a calm, confident, leader towards them. Dogs are looking for leaders to follow and if the leader isn’t worried, they drop their worries too. Never coddle or fawn over your dog when they are in a nervous state. Instead, confidently tell them that they are ok, and divert their attention to something else. If they aren’t interested in anything else and would much rather cuddle and lay with you – then do that without any emotional sing-songy communication.

Remember: Calm, confident, leadership.

Dog Behavior, Dogs

Toys, Play Dates and Pack Mates

Leave a comment

Dogs love to play, right? And they love their toys! So it’s natural to think that involving toys in a play session is totally normal and okay to do with multiple dogs. And it is, in some situations.

Toys can be a great addition to your doggy socials, but they can also be a source for resource guarding in some dogs. Which can lead to them having words or worse, with another unknowing dog who maybe wants to try to play with them, with that toy.

As a general rule; if I am inviting a friend dog over for the first time to hang out with my social boy who loves to play? I pick up all the toys and put them away. A new play date should be just that, a date between the pups. This keeps the environment as neutral as possible and allows the dogs to figure each other’s personality and play styles out. They focus attention on each other and will have a good time! I will continue to not allow toys between friends until they’ve built a good solid relationship with one another – after several play sessions, then I will slowly introduce toys to their dates. Which I’ll describe down below.

So, what about pack mates? The way that I have pack mates integrate has many steps and toys are a step in their bonding process that comes in time. Let’s say you started off with one dog. You have that pup for about a year or two and they’ve got their set of toys; some are favorites, most are fun, some are “eh”. Now you bring puppy into the mix. Puppy obviously needs TONS of toys and stimulation to keep them happy and nondestructive. But I don’t allow puppy to just come in and take over older dogs toys. That can cause undue stress in your pack and could lead to problems later on. Puppy gets their own area to acclimate / potty train / stay out of trouble / and play with THEIR set of toys. Baby toys. Teething toys that are softer for their baby mouths, etc. In some cases the older dog will bring some of their toys to the puppy – and those are the ones I start with.

Just like a play date, I have my new puppies play with my older dogs without anything around. Just for the first few days. I don’t allow full integration right away, it’s just how I do it, so when the dogs do hang out (and that is most of the day – when I’m there to monitor), they figure each other out and baby begins to learn their place in the family. This also strengthens the bond between dogs because, again, they only have each other to focus on. When I’m not watching and they go back to their puppy pen, everybody gets their own toys back.

This lasts maybe the first week. After that, I begin to add toys to their play. When I do, I bring out twice as many as there are dogs. The toys I bring out are the ones big dog brought to little dog to share through the pen, the bland toys, the “eh” toys. In other words I bring out all the toys that don’t mean much to the big dog. I keep their favorites up until MUCH later in their relationship. Tug toys, ropes, long floppy toys, things that they can both enjoy together and both have enough room to hold onto it at once. This minimized any jealousy or upset misunderstandings between the two. Gradually they get more and more toys to play with together, as they learn to share.

If I ever see someone getting possessive over an item I will take it and claim as mine. This keeps order in the pack, feelings from getting hurt, and prevents grudges from being built. Whoever that toy belonged to originally, I will return it to them when the puppy goes back up.

All of this doesn’t take long. They learn to share pretty quickly given plenty of time to do so. I rotate toys often and bring new ones out to keep things interesting between them. Also when you have multiple dogs, your toys get destroyed that much faster!

So what about a fully integrated pack and new toys? I ALWAYS buy multiple and always give them to the whole pack at the same time. This way they see it as all of theirs not just singularly theirs. When they receive the new toys together – they’re more likely to share them equally. Always remember though, if you’re giving something new, have an equal number of new toys to dogs, or equal +1 is better!

Horse Training, Horses

Horse Training: Fear vs. Trust

1 Comment

There has been a very long-standing practice of how one should “break” or “tame” a horse. That generally involved domination of the animal using ropes, chains, and whips. The practice of “Cowboying” a horse into submission provides you with an animal that is compliant – out of fear.

When mentioning working with a horse I’m often met with comments such as “Oh, I could get him to do what I want – you just gotta not be afraid of him and show him who’s boss!” Ok, sort of, yeah. But I disagree.

Horses are prey animals. They’re naturally afraid anyway, as they should be, of predators or anything that moves, honestly. That fear is what keeps them alive! So then you want to build a relationship based off of that fear? That doesn’t sound like a great time to me.

I know a lot of people do what they do out of love and not knowing any different. Those same people telling me they’d “show him who’s boss” would also say that they love their horses. The methods in which were used on that animal, were used because that’s the way it’s always been.

My very first horse was brought to me by the woman who had been his farrier and had kept him on her property the last year and a half of his, then, 4-year life. I had been studying horse body language and communication for a few years at this point. Looking for gentler, better, methods to work with and train horses, and to be the best I could be with mine. She led him out of the trailer towards the round pen and was telling me how I needed to “show him who’s boss” (yes, that’s a very popular statement in the horse world). She proceeded to close the gate, grabbed a whip, and BAM! Started cracking it right at his hind end. She was super aggressive, running at him growling loudly swinging the whip at him, making him run his heart out until he was glistening with sweat. She was talking about how I NEEDED to run him ragged before doing anything with him because he was “very hot”. I was uncomfortable, he was visibly uncomfortable trying to get away from her, and I felt frozen. I had been training dogs for 10 years at this point and had only ever studied about horses and casually ridden, after all. Whereas she had been a farrier for 20+. What did I know?

I knew for certain that, that would be the last time that ever happened to my boy. He never did choose to go to her, he was forced to stop by being herded into a “corner” and she caught him when he was frozen and shaking. It made me feel sick watching it.

I decided to use my methods with him. Positive reinforcement and building trust. That first week all I did was bond with him so I could basically reset his brain as much as possible. He did everything for me because he WANTED to. I built a friendship based on trust and love. I could get him to do anything I wanted, and he took care of me for the remainder of his life.

Using positive reinforcement, understanding how horses communicate with one other, patience and love will accomplish SO MUCH MORE with your horse. By doing so, you are showing them that you are a safe place. You’re not going to let anything happen to them and will take care of them, so they will trust you and feel drawn to be with you. The bond that is created between your horse and you will be stronger, and everything you do will come much easier.

This boy has had a rough time. Typical beginning with typical “training”. His behavior and body language speak volumes to me.

Before I met him, his basic story was: He can’t be caught. They chase him around for 3hours+ to no avail. His mom would end up sitting in the middle of his paddock completed defeated. Not only was she missing basic vet and farrier appointments? She had to miss out on work every time as well. He runs at the sight of a halter and has his ears pinned about 90% of the time. He’s kicked out at and given warning nips to anyone who tried to work with him. Had been through two different trainers before me, one of them he threw on her head. He hadn’t been ridden in years and the one and only time his mom got to, it ended before it started and that was the same day, right before the trainer got tossed. Everyone advising her said he “just needed a cowboy to come fix him”. Sounded like my work was cut out for me…

First day I met him, it was obvious he didn’t have a lot of trust in anyone! He pinned his ears pretty much constant; every time his mom or I would look at him or go to pet him, or even when anybody would move or do anything that he though was “out of his control”. He showed obvious signs of heavy hands being on him in his longtime past. He definitely had been broken. That day, I just listened to his story and won him over.

At the time of this writing, I’ve only worked with him for two separate hours. We’ve already managed to decrease the ear pinning down to about 30%. He is beginning to trust me, lets me pet him in more areas than his head/face, and I’ve caught and led him by having him come to me in just 35 minutes.

If it weren’t for my methods of positive reinforcement, patience, understanding and love? Who knows how many more missed work, appointments and frustrating hours, days or even years they would have had to endure. And where it stands now? She’ll be able to enjoy her horse for many years to come. I’m confident I’ll have her in the saddle as well.

We still have a lot of work to do – and I will be writing updated blogs on this guy! Stay tuned!

Dogs

The Doggy Wrench

Leave a comment

“He’s YOUR dog, not mine!” “He won’t listen to me!” “You’re the only one that matters to her” “She doesn’t even like me.”

Have you ever said any of these phrases? Or heard your partner say them to you? It’s not at all uncommon for the doggy wrench to be thrown in the middle of a relationship. Some of the longest relationships have had their rough patches due to the dog. You are not alone!

I’ve had many people declare that I saved their marriage after coming in and helping them sort out their puppy problems. Sometimes it’s a basic behavior fix, and other times it may take a different perspective on the part of the humans in the house.

Look, fundamentally, you ALL are a part of your dog’s pack. You may not all have the same relationship with one another, but everybody living in the house is seen as a pack member to the dog. Whether or not they listen to you and/or “like” you, often has a lot to do with how you are thinking about them and the amount of interaction (or lack thereof) with them.

I tell my clients (and even family members) that all it really takes is 5 minutes a day to begin to build a bond with the family dog. They don’t listen to you? Grab a bag of treats and have them earn some through basic obedience or even tricks and games. Take turns filling the food bowl and placing it down for the dog – that way they can see that you provide for them as well. Small changes like this can have a HUGE impact on how your dog views you!

Sometimes, all it takes is finding something you like about the dog, maybe their ears flop over when they look at you a certain way, the way their eyes sparkle when they wake up in the morning and greet you, their coat is extra shiny in the sun, maybe they’re really cute when they get a squeaky ball and want to play. By finding things you enjoy about the dog that you can focus on, you’ll begin to shift your body language and energy towards them – and they will notice and respond with similar positive interactions with you!

It should be noted that if there are more severe behaviors happening such as biting, or attacking a family member – that should be addressed by a Behaviorist for more in-depth training and behavior modification.

Dogs

Dogs Love to Party Too

Leave a comment

I think my dog is having a “Doggy Hangover” today. Yesterday we had a birthday party for my mom and everybody came over. Everybody includes my brother, his wife, my sister, her husband and two kids, my boyfriend, my best friend, along with both my parents and I.

Everyone was here for about four hours. We all had a lot of fun, the mood was great, and the energy was flowing and very upbeat. At the end of the night, the kids had a meltdown because it was time to go home to bed. They were having too much fun for it to end!

2012-09-04

Adie, my Malamute, had her own meltdown after everyone left, which consists of her “woo’ing” and barking at us over and over for about 10 minutes because everyone is gone. She is always SO psyched to have her family and friends come over. The kids are her favorite. They hug her, play with her, run around with her, and lay all over her, not to mention all the goodies they sneak to her. They have a great relationship and I can completely trust her with them. Adie watches over the kids and makes sure they’re okay. She will even run to them if they get hurt or upset.

Ya know that feeling, after a party, the next day, where you’re just worn out and tired or hungover? After all the excitement has died down and gone away and you have an empty house. You just kinda mope around in the quiet? Well, that’s how Adie is today.

2012-09-04 Adie

As I went out to hang with her for a bit this afternoon, she was snoozing in her igloo. She slowly emerged, eyes half open, stretched, and sauntered over to me. As she came up to me, she slowly walked to my side and rested her head in my lap. She glanced, lazily, up at me, sighed, then closed her eyes, her head still resting on my lap. Her energy totally drained.

Why does she get so excited? Not just because they’re friends and family and she knows them, but dogs are pack animals. They thrive on togetherness just like humans do. They get excited and stay happy when their people are over; they get to socialize the same way we do when we have a party. When our energy level is up, so is theirs!

This doesn’t naturally happen so easily. Oh no! It took a lot of patience, training, and work with her when she was young so that I could get her to the point of totally trusting her. Adie is now 6 years old, almost 7. I began our first training session the second she stepped foot out of the car when we got home from the airport. We still, to this day, will “practice” all of her commands and tricks. She LOVES every second of it!

Dogs are natural pack animals, but that is not the same as naturally social. Their wild cousins, the wolf, must learn how to function in the family unit. The same is true for our family pets. They aren’t born knowing how to deal with other dogs, or with all kinds of people for that matter.

When my dogs are young, anywhere from 8 weeks old and up, I have them meet at least one new person a day, as well as around 10 new dogs a week. I will continue this for the first two to three months I have them. The reason for this is that they will get to encounter several different ages, personalities, and quirks along the way. That will help me be able to guide them in how to handle each individual they meet. It prepares them for anything and everything when they are older.

2012-09-04 Pic

The reason for doing this so young, and why it is so important to socialize them when they’re that young, is because puppies are impressionable, but don’t hold a grudge at that age. They don’t take things “personally” yet; they are still learning the world. They are still sponges ready to learn anything you are teaching them. Also, younger puppies don’t piss off older dogs as much as puppies/dogs that are 6 months and older do. So you have the benefit of the older dog’s natural patience with your puppy as well.

Socializing with children is just as important as socializing your dog with other dogs. Children are very short, fast-moving, unpredictable 2-legged dogs. They can be weapon-wielding, loud, quiet, fast, slow, unstable, and dangerous all at the same time! So, the more kids, the better! All ages are important, too.

Adie was already a year old when my nephew was born, and two years later my niece came, but she got to have the experience of being around very young babies. She learned how to move around them, as they were learning how to move around themselves, and now they are at the age where they can go out and let her loose with them, after they ask of course. She enjoys every minute of it.

2012-09-04 Adie Kids