Tag Archives: Dog training

Animal Brain Vs. Domestic Brain

Oftentimes my clients will hear me talk about their dogs being in “Animal brain mode” or “Domestic brain mode” to help explain where their dog’s focus is. There’s a little more to it than just focus.

Dog domestication happened a LONG time ago – their ancestors came from their wild wolf cousins. There is a piece of their functionality that will always remain somewhat ‘wild’. This is their instinctual side, where prey drive and reactivity comes from.

I tend to work more with dogs that function at a higher percentage in Animal brain than they do in Domestic brain, because I specialize in severe behavioral issues and all forms of aggression. My dogs start out functioning at a level of instinct instead of partnership with their humans.

There was a study I read once, that when some dogs instinct kicks in during prey drive, the function of their hearing shuts off. They go so far into Animal brain mode that they literally cannot hear you, because that is the least helpful sense to a dog on the hunt. They gain laser focus and all they want to do is “GO get that thing!!”

I experienced this quite a bit with my Husky, Prince. When he would spot a cat or possum? That was it. There was no getting through to him. I can still see the hard look he would get. Eyes focused, body stiff, and those ears were pinned on the unsuspecting critter! I could yell or scream any command or even some of his favorite words “WALK? Bone! Prince, BONE! LEAVE IT AND COME GET THIS BONE!! Let’s go for a WALK!! DOG!!!” And before I could even finish my sentence… BOOM! He was flying after them. The joy of the hunt was far greater than any pathetic thing I could come up with.

Because I had so much practice with him and watching other clients dogs do the same when they’d spot a squirrel or cat or another dog on the leash, I got really good at spotting the signs and getting their attention before that Animal brain would click on. I could see the train track change coming up on the horizon. The trick is getting those tracks to not switch directions, to keep them going in a straight line in Domestic brain lane. That functioning partnership that we all love and know our dogs are capable of.

Domestic brain is where we like our dogs. They listen, they obey, and they stay in their own lanes. When I work with a dog to get them functioning more in Domestic brain, the transition is a bit stressful, for everyone involved. The dogs instincts are SCREAMING in their bodies, and they will succumb to it at times. But in order to work on it, they need to be continually exposed, in order to learn how to shut it off and stay in the right frame of mind. This is where our ability to be patient and loving and understanding comes in handy. And also a bit of knowledge in body language helps too.

So when your dog is barking out the window at passers by or rushing out the back door to go chase a squirrel, understand that they’re functioning off of something a bit more primal and calling them off may not always work. Catching their attention just before usually will.

The Doggy Wrench

“He’s YOUR dog, not mine!” “He won’t listen to me!” “You’re the only one that matters to her” “She doesn’t even like me.”

Have you ever said any of these phrases? Or heard your partner say them to you? It’s not at all uncommon for the doggy wrench to be thrown in the middle of a relationship. Some of the longest relationships have had their rough patches due to the dog. You are not alone!

I’ve had many people declare that I saved their marriage after coming in and helping them sort out their puppy problems. Sometimes it’s a basic behavior fix, and other times it may take a different perspective on the part of the humans in the house.

Look, fundamentally, you ALL are a part of your dog’s pack. You may not all have the same relationship with one another, but everybody living in the house is seen as a pack member to the dog. Whether or not they listen to you and/or “like” you, often has a lot to do with how you are thinking about them and the amount of interaction (or lack thereof) with them.

I tell my clients (and even family members) that all it really takes is 5 minutes a day to begin to build a bond with the family dog. They don’t listen to you? Grab a bag of treats and have them earn some through basic obedience or even tricks and games. Take turns filling the food bowl and placing it down for the dog – that way they can see that you provide for them as well. Small changes like this can have a HUGE impact on how your dog views you!

Sometimes, all it takes is finding something you like about the dog, maybe their ears flop over when they look at you a certain way, the way their eyes sparkle when they wake up in the morning and greet you, their coat is extra shiny in the sun, maybe they’re really cute when they get a squeaky ball and want to play. By finding things you enjoy about the dog that you can focus on, you’ll begin to shift your body language and energy towards them – and they will notice and respond with similar positive interactions with you!

It should be noted that if there are more severe behaviors happening such as biting, or attacking a family member – that should be addressed by a Behaviorist for more in-depth training and behavior modification.

What Mighty Big Teeth You Have!

When people find out I specialize in severe behavioral issues and aggression in dogs, they have a LOT of questions. One of the first that’s always asked?

“Have you ever been bitten?” 

Jack Russell Terrier Snarling

After the usual, “Oh yeah, by plenty of puppies, teething stage is real fun” answer, I give them what they want.

“Sorta”

Yep, sorta. I have been full on bitten, only once, by my own dog when she was in full-on Protection Mode and had shut down all her senses except for what was in front of her. All I got was a few puncture spots across my palm, back of my hand, and fingers. It healed fast. I survived with nothing to show. She knew she made the wrong choice as soon as her mouth hit my hand, and she immediately corrected herself and didn’t chomp down completely.

There was a time when a dog specifically went after me, though unsuccessful. Actually, as I write this, I am remembering several times a dog specifically went at me, with the intent to bite me. I mean, come on, that’s my job, so, they sure do try! There was the American Eskimo, the White Shepherd Puppy (2, actually), the Pit Bull, the Border Collie (oh man she wanted to eat my face off), the Australian Cattle Dog, and several small dogs like Min Pins & Chihuahuas. These are completely different situations, and a different type of intended bite. Unlike Adie’s immediately-corrected “Reaction Bite”. These others would’ve been full-force bites. And none of them ever got me. So, no – I’ve never been bit, though many have tried. 🙂

But, that always raises another question:

pibble“What’s the dog bite force pressure? Don’t Pit Bulls have, like, the strongest bite and lock jaw?” 

Hold up…

First of all – Let me dispel something real quick for you:

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS LOCK JAW IN ANY DOG BREED! 

I know, it might be surprising, but you’ll get through this. In fact, Pit Bulls, meaning the all-inclusive 3 bully breeds – American Pit Bull Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, don’t even have the strongest bite, of the recorded popular dog breeds that were tested. More on that in a minute.

Now, the animal that DOES have the capability of “Lock Jaw” is you. Yep, you. It’s part of something called TMJ. It’s no fun, my sister has suffered from it since we were kids. You don’t want it.

The reason behind the Pit Bull Lock Jaw myth is because of the amount of muscle that they have in their heads. In most dogs the muscles between the jaw, head, and neck have some kind of separation. Whereas the Bully breeds muscular system is bigger – and all attached. From their jaw to the top of the head, and down the neck. That’s a LOT of muscle, and what makes them so hard-headed, literally. (Great dogs though!) And had a part in giving them their bad reputation. 🙁

Basically bite force varies from breed to breed, and even dog by dog, like a fingerprint. Just as every dog learns differently and has a different personality, their own personal bite force strength will vary. But that won’t stop scientists from giving you a breakdown anyway!

For those that are interested and want to learn more.
Here’s your site, that also quotes DVM sources:
http://www.pbrc.net/mediacenter/mediaqa.html

National Geographic did several tests on bite force pressure. They not only tested dogs, but included other animals – and humans. The results are interesting.

For the sake of comparison, average human (Or Zombie, I guess) bite force pressure is 120 pounds of pressure per square inch.

Pit bulls came in at around 235 pounds psi.
German Shepherds earned 238 pounds.
Rottweiler tested at 328 psi, making it the highest of all the dog breeds.

rottweiler-jaws

Check out that gorgeous mouth!
The Rottweiler jaw, ladies & gentlemen.

However, there are new rumors floating around that the Mastiff has 552 psi, and the Doberman comes in at 600 (right…). IF those rumors are true (because they weren’t tested specifically, and lets still consider #context) that would make the Dobie have the strongest bite force. But, for science sake, and because #facts… The current winner is the Rottweiler.

Sorry to burst some bubbles, or back up the OTHER spouses. I do that a lot, in my line of work. It’s what I’m here for, folks! 🙂

crocodileOh, those other animals?
Lions & White Sharks come in at 600 lbs pressure (sorry Dobies, not looking good for your story… I’d believe a Rhodesian Ridgeback over you guys).
Hyenas at 1,000 lbs.
Snapping Turtles at 1,000 lbs.
And Crocodiles are 2,500 lbs psi.
That sounds… really painful…

I also decided to look up my birds because those guys HURT. All I could find was somewhere between 500-700 pounds of pressure. Not sure how reliable that is, but I know that a Macaw can crush your bone if you piss it off enough…

Moral of the story, folks?

Animals are Friends. And? They can all bite harder than you <3

Bring Me To Your Leader

Having A Structure For Your Pooch:
And Why They’ll Thank You For It. 

dog-leader

“Why should you spend your time training your dog? What’s the point? Aren’t all those things they learn just “tricks”, anyway?”

I have had this question before. It was in an “Intro” class, and was asked by a man who had been sent by his wife, in her stead, and he wasn’t planning on attending any classes, he just wanted to see what it was all about. It’s a great question! There are several reasons why, and not the least of which is to create a structure for your dog to follow. Just like kids, lines need to be defined for your dog(s), so that they can grow up learning how to behave properly in the world and, more importantly, your family.

wolf-packEssentially, what it all comes down to is, dogs all need a “leader”. All of our domestic dogs evolved from wolves. And by ‘evolved’ I mean: Domesticated and bred down to all the breeds you see today, by our own ancestors who built mutually-beneficial relationships with the wild packs inhabiting the same land as them. Wolves live very similarly to us; in family-like packs where the alphas head the group. And because our domestic dogs share the same DNA, they also share the same instincts as their wild cousins. So, they will automatically look to you for guidance. And? If they don’t find that guidance or clear direction from you, their supposed alpha, they will appoint themselves as the alpha of the house. <Cue Danger Music>

not-listeningSo, what happens when a dog decides it’s the alpha of the house? That’s when we see behaviors such as not listening to you when you call them, or not caring if you correct them for doing something they shouldn’t be. They can get destructive, sometimes they can become aggressive toward people or other dogs, possessiveness can happen, or they will even choose to use your carpets and couches as their “grass” and “hydrant” for relieving themselves. In other words, most (all) unwanted behaviors come from lack of structure, and the fact that there has not been a clear alpha established in the home, so the dog has taken on the role itself. And creating it’s own rules (or lack, thereof). And, let me tell you, not all dogs are confident or dominant enough to be the alpha, even if they were in a dog pack.

Just imagine giving your 4-year old child full reign of the house. They choose what they get to do at all times, and you have no say. That doesn’t work for anyone, and can become very disastrous!

The client I mentioned earlier, came to Week 1 with his wife, and they had an adorable, yet very rowdy and unruly, puppy. It turned out that they felt bad for giving their dog so many ‘rules’, before ever attending a training class. They thought that they were being mean to their puppy, and were afraid to hurt his feelings. But, they had an 8-month old jumpy, barky, bitey, handful running their house and determining their routine for them, causing them to cater to him before themselves. And, he was going to turn out to be about 100lbs, when fully grown. Can you imagine a 100lb dog with no rules? Yikes!

doggy-smileLet me assure you of one thing, you will NOT hurt your dog’s feelings, by giving them a structure. And, you are most definitely not being mean to them by doing so, either. In fact, it’s quite the opposite. You will give them MUCH more confidence by using positive reinforcement training, giving them a routine to follow, with rules in and outside of the home. They will be a much happier, relaxed dog if you take on that alpha role in their life. You will make it clear where they belong in your pack, which gives them security. They will look to you for “what to do next” in most situations, which eliminates some forms of anxiety that they may have. Also, everybody – human and dog alike, will be MUCH less stressed! And who doesn’t want that? But, most importantly, you will build a strong bond with your dog, based on mutual love and respect, and that creates a great relationship that all parties can benefit from for YEARS. And, that’s the whole point of getting a dog in the first place, isn’t it?

My client? Turns out he LOVED going to classes with his wife. They came together every week, and he took on training that puppy like nothing else. And after a few weeks, he turned out to be one of the most well-behaved in the class. They came back for 3 more sessions, so I got to watch him grow up – which is a part of my job I LOVE. He became such a big, confident, mellow dog that listened to his whole family, including their young kids. They loved that dog like crazy, and when they started they were so frustrated with him and even dealing with feelings of regretting ever getting him. Such a turn around – and all by establishing rules and a good solid structure for him.

dog-human-bondSo, the moral of the story is – Don’t feel bad. Dogs don’t have feelings in the same ways we do. Not to say they don’t experience ‘feelings’. In this case, they enjoy having a solid structure and really appreciate having a clear leader to tell them what to do. In return, they will be loyal, loving, and protective of you and your family. Which makes for a very enjoyable relationship that not only benefits both parties, but is one of the most stress-relieving relationships you can have in life. As I always say, dogs are the best, so why not do the best for them?

Training Tools & Their Proper Use

There are several items that are used in training dogs: leashes, collars, harnesses, treats, clickers, and depending on what you’re training, toys etc. But right now I’m focusing on collars. Specifically correction collars and harnesses.

The reason behind this being, I have recently seen a number of dogs living in collars that are supposed to be used for training purposes. And the opposite – where a correction collar is needed; then not used because it’s misunderstood.

They all have their purpose and place. Often, in most cases, a correction collar isn’t needed. Just a little patience, training and consistency can correct unwanted behaviors. Always start small, then work your way up!

I’ll break these down into 3 categories – With Pictures! 😀

  • Everyday Wear
  • Correction Collars
  • Harnesses

Everyday Wear:

1.braided-buckle-collar 2. fancy-buckle-collar

3. quick-release-collar4. rolled-leather-collar

#1- Braided Leather Collar: As with all leather products, the more you use it, the softer it becomes. The one shown above has what’s called a “quick release” clip, which makes it easy to take off in a pinch. Also, easy to snap onto your dog too, if you’re the type that likes to let them “go naked” at night.

#2- Flat Buckle Collar: These collars are less likely to snap apart in a pinch, but this style comes in so many different colors and patterns (as do the quick release buckles) so you can have more of a “personality” showing with these.

#3- Flat Quick Release Buckle: Again, just like 2, you can find all kinds of colors or patterns, which makes these fun.

#4- Rolled Leather Collar: I prefer these for my dogs, when we need to leave the house. I have always had really fluffy dogs with double coats, and when you put a flat collar on a double-coated dog, it tends to mat the hair underneath and flatten the coat. With a Rolled Leather collar you completely avoid that. They do come in different colors now, but no patterns. You wouldn’t be able to see it in the Malamute’s coat, anyhow 😉

When it comes to “everyday wear”, you want your dog to feel comfortable. Just like how you enjoy wearing sweats at the end of the day. Your dog likes to have it’s comfy “clothes” on, too. These are collars that you leave on your dog. They are also the ones that you attach their information tags to. So always be sure to have them on your dogs when you aren’t home. As well as every time you go out with your dog.

When fitting your dog with a collar, you want it to be tight enough that it wont slide off, over their ears, should they pull away from your grip on it. But loose enough that you can stick about 2-3 fingers in there between the neck & collar. We don’t want doggy to feel strangled, but you want to be able to keep control with it, should the need arise.

All 4 of these collars above are good “everyday wear” for your pups.

Correction Collars: 

1.martingale-collar-2 2. martingale-collar

3. slip-chain-collar 4. prong-collar

#1- Flat Martingale: This collar is designed to resemble the regular “everyday” flat collar. With a bit of a “correction collar” thrown in. A Hybrid, if you will. This is the only one of these four I would be OK with any of my dogs living in. It’s just like a regular flat collar, has a space for the ID Tags, and is also designed to tighten on the dog when it pulls – if you attach the leash on the top ring.

#2- Martingale Collar: This is the first design of the martingale collar. Where they combined the chain collar with the flat. It works in much the same way as #1 does. It tightens when being pulled on, and has a stopping point so that it doesn’t continue to choke your dog. With both of these collars, they CAN be ineffective if left too big. The idea is that it should tighten enough to be uncomfortable, but not so much that the two “stopping rings” touch. I often see these two collars living on dogs, and they are way to big so that when the dog pulls the rings are touching and there is still space between the dog’s neck & the collar. If you are going to have them that way, just put on a regular flat or buckle collar because it’s pretty much the same thing. The “stopping point” of these two collars should stop at your dog’s neck, and still have some space before the rings are touching each other. That’s the truly effective way of using them.

#3- Choke Chain: That’s the traditional name, but Chain Collar works just fine. Or Slip Chain. The “clip” ring (the piece hanging out at the bottom) is where you clip your leash. the “active” ring is what slides closer or further away from your dogs neck. If you are interested in using one of these collars – I HIGHLY suggest getting a professional to help fit your dog with one. There are specific grades of chain (small, medium, heavy, extra heavy, extra small), as well as different lengths.
If it’s too long, it’ll be ineffective. If it’s too short, it’ll be ineffective, and really uncomfortable and potentially dangerous for your dog. It needs to be a perfect fit for your specific dog. Basically, when you slip this on over their head, and pull it all the way out (meaning the active ring is sitting against your dog’s neck) you want to have about 6 inches of chain out. Because the idea of this collar is that the dog listens to the ring sliding on the chain, when you tighten it. Thus teaching your dog to listen to the ring sliding, later on, rather than “getting choked”. Proper technique, and placement on the dog, is everything with this collar, and I DO NOT recommend using one unless you know what you are doing, or you have a professional trainer show you how to use it. This collar is misused about 95% of the time. From the way it’s put on, to it’s size and thickness of the chain. All-in-all, if you feel like your dog needs to ‘graduate’ to this type of collar, PLEASE get some training help before you put one on!

#4- Prong Collar: Ah! It’s a Torture Device! “Doesn’t that hurt the dog?!” Well, yes, it CAN – if you are using it wrong. Again, this is another collar I suggest you ONLY use, if you are being directed by a professional trainer. This is a HIGHLY effective collar for BIG dogs who like to pull. Bully Breeds, Northern Breeds, etc. The ONLY people who should be using this collar, are the ones who have dogs that pull. Big dogs can easily knock their people down when going for a walk if they pull hard enough and catch you off guard. If there is any sort of physical limitation such as a person who doesn’t have much strength, anyone healing from some kind of surgery that affects your walking/stability/balance/strength, younger adults/teens with big dogs, etc. I highly recommend using this collar.
It is what I always refer to as “Power Steering”.

It is designed to resemble Momma dog’s mouth. When the dog pulls, the “teeth” of the collar tighten around the dog’s neck. When doggy feels that sensation they are automatically reminded of when their mom would correct them for something they did wrong, in the whelping box, and will correct whatever behavior is happening right then.

When used the right way, it can be a VERY effective tool at keeping your dog under control. I NEVER yank on the leash hard to “pop” them with it. It takes just a very small correction using your hand and a slight wrist motion, to get the point across. If this collar is too big, it’ll be ineffective. If this collar is too small – it can cause serious damage to your dog’s neck. Again, if you think you might need this collar to help you on your walks – PLEASE consult a professional to show you how to use it the right way.

NOTE: NEVER leave this on your dog 24/7. For one, they shouldn’t be living in metal, anyway, but for all the reasons stated above – it can be dangerous or become completely ineffective.

Correction collars are named for that purpose. Correcting unwanted behaviors. These four collars are used for training only. They are not to be used as everyday living situation collars. (Number 1 being the only exception to the rule).

In my profession, I have seen so many dogs live in collars 3 & 4. This is a pet peeve of mine, and can be potentially very dangerous. There are all kinds of things that can go wrong with them. They can get caught on something, and because of their design, can choke or severely injure your dog. All four of these collars are designed to tighten when they are pulled at the ring. If your dog gets stuck on something and you aren’t around, it can panic and hurt itself pretty bad with any one of these. It’s just not safe for them.

But, the other reason is this. Dogs also become immune to them. They are for training purposes only. But if they are left on 24/7 your dog will learn to ignore it, and it won’t mean anything to them, anymore. Rendering your training tool completely useless. A dog living in a choke or a prong collar is used to the feel of it around their neck, and when they are wearing it while just hanging out on the couch, or rummaging through the backyard they are having all kinds of other experiences with them, that isn’t “correcting” any type of behavior. So, then a dog that pulls, will continue to pull because it feels the same sensation all day long, doing a million other things on it’s own. Use them for walks & training. Take them off when you are lounging or crating. And NEVER leave them on when playing with other dogs!

Harnesses

1.traditional-harness2.  pull-harness

3. front-clip-harness 4. small-dog-harness

#1- Traditional Harness: This is your basic harness. They go over the head and through the paw and the leash clips on the back. This is a good one to use for riding in the car – clip the seat belt through the hand loop of a tab leash, then clip the leash to the back of the harness. This type of harness will encourage a dog to pull. It feels good because it lies across their muscles, and the more they lean into it, the more they want to. Not the greatest for training a dog to walk nicely next to you.

#2- Pulling Harness: This is usually used on Malamutes and Huskies for pulling competitions or sleds/carts. There are several points on it to distribute the weight evenly throughout the dog, while supporting it at the same time. Again, it feels good on them to pull in it, that’s what it’s designed for – Not training a dog to walk nicely next to you. 😉

#3- Front Clip Harness: This is a nice harness that clips in the front. It is designed with the “gentle leader” in mind, where, when the dog pulls ahead – it encourages them to turn toward you and slow down. It doesn’t necessarily work that exact way, but I do like walking the bigger dogs in this harness, I have more control over them. However, if you have a very rowdy dog that’s persistent enough – they CAN pull out of this. I’ve had it happen. So, depending on your situation, this can be a good harness to use (easy-going, trainable dog, not too into pulling or lunging), or maybe you should consider a collar. 😉 Out of all 4 of these harnesses, for large breed dogs – this is the one I prefer!

#4- Soft Shirt Harness: I believe they only make this harness for small to medium dogs. And that’s just fine – that’s the only dog I would suggest putting in these. It’s comfortable on them, there are no points where the harness straps can dig into the doggy’s arms or sides. It clips in the back which is convenient for the smaller dogs. I prefer walking any small dog in this – or harness #1 – instead of collars. Small breed dogs aren’t strong enough to pull you into the street, but you are strong enough to accidentally hurt them, n the wrong type of collar. So, as a universal rule, for me, I like putting all small dogs in this type of harness for walking or training.

And – Just like correction collars – always remove the harness when you get home! Dogs shouldn’t live in a harness, either. It’s uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time, and can cause skin and hair loss issues.

What’s a Tab Leash?

You probably thought I’d forget – nope! I mentioned it, so here it is.

tab-leash

These are Tab Leashes. It’s a very short leash with just a handle on it. These are some of my favorite leashes, personally, because I always have REALLY big dogs (Shown Below is an example of me with my King Shepherd Tobi). I also like using these for seat belts. However – when I am training dogs, I always recommend a 6ft. leather leash for all my clients. Leather – the more you use it, the softer it gets. When in training you will always need more length. But I do recommend these paired with a harness, for seat belts in the car!

me-tobi

That’s usually why I don’t need long leashes 😉
Me & Good Ole Tobi
(10/2000 – 05/2011)

Dogs Love to Party Too

I think my dog is having a “Doggy Hangover” today. Yesterday we had a birthday party for my mom and everybody came over. Everybody includes my brother, his wife, my sister, her husband and two kids, my boyfriend, my best friend, along with both my parents and I.

Everyone was here for about four hours. We all had a lot of fun, the mood was great, and the energy was flowing and very upbeat. At the end of the night, the kids had a meltdown because it was time to go home to bed. They were having too much fun for it to end!

2012-09-04

Adie, my Malamute, had her own meltdown after everyone left, which consists of her “woo’ing” and barking at us over and over for about 10 minutes because everyone is gone. She is always SO psyched to have her family and friends come over. The kids are her favorite. They hug her, play with her, run around with her, and lay all over her, not to mention all the goodies they sneak to her. They have a great relationship and I can completely trust her with them. Adie watches over the kids and makes sure they’re okay. She will even run to them if they get hurt or upset.

Ya know that feeling, after a party, the next day, where you’re just worn out and tired or hungover? After all the excitement has died down and gone away and you have an empty house. You just kinda mope around in the quiet? Well, that’s how Adie is today.

2012-09-04 Adie

As I went out to hang with her for a bit this afternoon, she was snoozing in her igloo. She slowly emerged, eyes half open, stretched, and sauntered over to me. As she came up to me, she slowly walked to my side and rested her head in my lap. She glanced, lazily, up at me, sighed, then closed her eyes, her head still resting on my lap. Her energy totally drained.

Why does she get so excited? Not just because they’re friends and family and she knows them, but dogs are pack animals. They thrive on togetherness just like humans do. They get excited and stay happy when their people are over; they get to socialize the same way we do when we have a party. When our energy level is up, so is theirs!

This doesn’t naturally happen so easily. Oh no! It took a lot of patience, training, and work with her when she was young so that I could get her to the point of totally trusting her. Adie is now 6 years old, almost 7. I began our first training session the second she stepped foot out of the car when we got home from the airport. We still, to this day, will “practice” all of her commands and tricks. She LOVES every second of it!

Dogs are natural pack animals, but that is not the same as naturally social. Their wild cousins, the wolf, must learn how to function in the family unit. The same is true for our family pets. They aren’t born knowing how to deal with other dogs, or with all kinds of people for that matter.

When my dogs are young, anywhere from 8 weeks old and up, I have them meet at least one new person a day, as well as around 10 new dogs a week. I will continue this for the first two to three months I have them. The reason for this is that they will get to encounter several different ages, personalities, and quirks along the way. That will help me be able to guide them in how to handle each individual they meet. It prepares them for anything and everything when they are older.

2012-09-04 Pic

The reason for doing this so young, and why it is so important to socialize them when they’re that young, is because puppies are impressionable, but don’t hold a grudge at that age. They don’t take things “personally” yet; they are still learning the world. They are still sponges ready to learn anything you are teaching them. Also, younger puppies don’t piss off older dogs as much as puppies/dogs that are 6 months and older do. So you have the benefit of the older dog’s natural patience with your puppy as well.

Socializing with children is just as important as socializing your dog with other dogs. Children are very short, fast-moving, unpredictable 2-legged dogs. They can be weapon-wielding, loud, quiet, fast, slow, unstable, and dangerous all at the same time! So, the more kids, the better! All ages are important, too.

Adie was already a year old when my nephew was born, and two years later my niece came, but she got to have the experience of being around very young babies. She learned how to move around them, as they were learning how to move around themselves, and now they are at the age where they can go out and let her loose with them, after they ask of course. She enjoys every minute of it.

2012-09-04 Adie Kids